maxum96

And factory on anything with a 390 or bigger starting in 1968. But there have been cases of factory 351 powered cars that got them and big block cars that should have had them, but didn't.

What are you running? A stock 302? If so, I'd say your Dyno numbers are about dead on.

When it comes to critical engine fastners, I'll pay the extra for ARP any day. After all, how much money are you gonna save if one of the cheap Chinese CAT rod bolts lets go?

Why? What difference does it make whether you run a manual or automatic transmission? I would suggest using a Detroit True Trac. It works like a Traction Lock, but has no clutches to wear out. I have a True Trac behind a 550+ hp 393 Windsor with a TKO and it works great.

I have a Strange Pro Nodular case with a Daytona pinion support and a billet 1350 series yoke. My center section is 100% new parts.

Sorry I didn't take any when I did.

I cut and welded mine.

I have a Lecarra and love it. Well worth the money.

Just for the record, I run Competition Engineering's Slide A Link traction bars. They work great. Not my car, but same traction bars.

The 3550 is actually the earlier version of the TKO 500/600. They're almost identical. I have a TKO which is the forerunner to the TKO 500/600. Some people claim you can run them without any transmission tunnel modifications. I have dropped motor mounts and I still had to notch my trans tunnel crossmember. I've heard the complaints about the TKO series transmissions not shifting well at high RPM's. I haven't had an issue with mine.

Here's a link to an article I found about the staggered shock body mount. Evidently you can buy the body mount new. http://blogs.mustangmonthly.com/6487165/ford-news/staggered-shock-mounting-plates/

It's a special setup on the body side of the shock mounts. Caltrac style traction bars will do a much better job of eliminating wheel hop then staggered shocks will.

I put the Dynacorn one in my car. I had the doors off and quarter windows out. It was easy to get in.

You need to know your rear tire height to get and accurate calculation.

That's the original factory way. But today there are cable and hydraulic clutch setups out there that avoid many of the pitfalls of the original z-bar setup. I use a hydraulic throwout bearing which means I don't have any linkage was so ever on the transmission. I just had to fabricate linkage to hook my clutch pedal up. But there are companies now that sell kits to install a clutch master cylinder and the linkage.

The glue original used sucked. There are modern replacement adhesives out there today that do a much better job.

Have you tried to see if the brackets will bolt up to the floor pan? And if they won't, how much work to modify the bracket(s)?

Not sure if that was for me or the OP. But if it was me, love my TKO. If it's for the OP, I too hope you like the TKO. Feels like having a toploader with overdrive.

The side exhaust is what's killing you. If you run the exhaust pipes all the way back to the bumper, you'll be amazed how much quieter it is.

That's it! It works both for the T-5 and TKO. Thanks for posting that.

I saw it in a magazine and it was for a TKO because I have a TKO and thinking about getting one. But I just got a wire harness from an old neutral safety switch and spliced the back up light switch from the TKO into.

NPD sells a wiring harness to plug the Tremec into the stock harness at the pigtail Buckeye mentioned.

If I'm not mistaken, T-10 parts are not the easiest things to find. If you want a stick, I'd suggest a T-5. You'll love having that 5th gear for highway speeds and low engine RPM's. Automatic, I'd suggest an AOD for the same reason. If it's strictly a cost decision, stick with the C4. Good transmission, tons of them still around, and parts are cheap.

Goodmark and Dynacorn are just middlemen. They don't manufacture any of the parts they sell. That comes directly from the owner of NPD.

Here's what a member over on Vintage Mustang Forum does. He owns a body shop. After grinding