maxum96

No, not me. I'm only on this forum, VMF, and FB. I think I've got the answer to my question. They were unpainted from the factory. I'll probably do the same when I put the new ones in.

Anyone know what the correct color is to paint the imitation plastic fender extension grilles on a 70 I circled in red?

I've never thought shocks made that much difference on a street car. I never saw any reason to put expensive shocks on a car. I just got rid of my antique KYB gas shocks and dropped the coin on a set of QA1 coil overs on the front, and stock style on the rear. I primarily did this as I wanted coil overs on the front to be able to adjust the ride height. What a difference the QA1 shocks made in the ride quality! No longer did it feel my teeth were being rattled out of my head. The other great thing on the QA1 shocks is that they're adjustable with just the turn of a knob. I have the single adjustable shocks versus the double adjustable versions.

The ones on my 70 Sportsroof were screwed in. Before quarter panel replacement After

The Optima red top in my Mustang is almost 15 years old. It's on the Battery Tender whenever the car is in the garage. I will say there was an 8 year period where the car sat and was never started.

Those look great. What did you do to create the texture?

Wilwood. They make a bunch of different kits depending on your wheel size and need.

He also had to deal with the honeycomb Mach 1 panel and it fit with that in place.

As mentioned, the shifter hole is more towards the left side of the car as vintage manual 3 and 4 speed transmissions had external shifters mounted on the left side of the transmission. With a TKO/TKX, the shifter is on the right side of the hole. I slightly clearanced my shifter hole on the right side to clear my TKX's shift arm boot. My factory in car shifter boot covers the area where I did the clearancing.

I had a buddy years ago use a 71-73 flip open gas cap on his 1970 Mach 1. It was a bolt on.

I know I'm late to the party, but I have a TKX in my 1970 and hooked up the neutral start switch and the back up light switch to my car's stock wiring. I took the wire from a C4 neutral start switch wire harness and cut off the switch. I bought a Tremec style back up light switch plug and the plug to mate to the TKX's neutral start switch. I just wired them in to the C4 neutral start switch harness. I ended up with a very clean setup that works great. I don't have any pics of the wire harness I made, but you can see the back up light switch plug on the left side of the transmission and on the right side above the transmission mount you can see the connector for the neutral start switch.

Yeah, because it didn't fit right when I bought the car. LOL I had do some welding on it to get it to fit right. Now it fits good.

I have a TKX in my 70. But I have a different transmission mount from those. I have no idea what brand it is as it came with the car. The first mount you showed should work just fine.

I put a Hurst Quarter Stick shift in a 1970 Mustang I had years ago. First thing you do is remove the stock shifter and linkage. You'll have to fabricate a metal plate to block off the hole where the stock shifter goes. Then you locate where you want to mount the Hurst shifter on the transmission tunnel. Then you have to drill holes for the mounting screws for the shifter. Then you have to make a hole for the shift cable. You should be able to run the cable through the block off plate you fabricated. Then you have to route your shifter cable. The stock cable I had was way too long and I had a custom shift cable made. Then you have to hook the cable up to the transmission. You need to make sure you have a the correct shifter for your transmission. In other words, make sure you don't have a reverse pattern shifter with a standard pattern valve body transmission or vice versa.

I bought a template recently on ebay. Numerous sellers had the templates.

As Brian already said, that's not a crack but a drain slot. That's just a heat shield to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake under the carb. As mentioned already, you can pop out those twist rivets and c clean out the gunk inside there if you so desire. If you choose not to, it won't hurt your engine or performance at all.

Back in the 1980's a buddy of mine dropped a stock 460 into a 1970 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed. His car was missing the 428CJ. The car was not that fast. Spark plug changes were not fun. Even though it was already a big block car, he had to do a lot of changes to get the 385 series (429/460) engine to work in the car. I almost dropped a stock 429 into a previous 70 Sportsroof I had back in the 1980's. I ended up putting a mildly built 351C in my car instead. I'm glad I didn't put the 429 in the car.

Intake manifold or if need be, use a thermostat housing with a threaded hole for a sending unit, similar to RPM's photo.

The factory temp gauge is pretty much useless to determine the actual engine temp. My 2019 F350 pickup's factory temp gauge is no better. I'd have the first fan come on at 195 and second one maybe 200.

Glad to see I'm not the only one with that issue. I'm going to need to "pie cut" my brackets. I had to do that for the bumper braces inside the trunk because they did not sit flat on the tail light panel

I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today. I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order. I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.

Thanks for the info. I recently found out I have a deluxe clock dash complete with clock in my stash of parts. I think I'm going to do a deluxe interior when I get to that point with my car.

I know I'm a little late to the conversation, but I too used a 5.0 thermostat housing on my 393W. It worked out perfect with my oversized radiator.

Randy, do all stock non-tach 1970 dash harnesses have the provision for have a factory clocked plugged into them?

I have all Autometer gauges in an aftermarket instrument panel. I had to wire them in to the stock harness. That was not a big deal as the only things I need were 12V power, instrument light, and fuel gauge sending wire. I run a mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauges along with an electronic speedometer. My tach is wired into my MSD box velcro'd to the passenger side cowl above the vent.