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maxum96

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Everything posted by maxum96

  1. I run Accufab headers with my AFR 205's on a 393W. I added 3 bolt collector rings and had them ceramic coated.
  2. Your car, do what you want. I'm going to put 70 Boss 302 hockey stick stripes on my car even though it's not a Boss. Personally, I like the 1969 Boss 302 stripes with or without the Boss 302 in it. If I had a 1969, I'd use the 69 stripes.
  3. If you're talking about the interior trap door panels, that's not what I'm looking for. These are the structural steel components that the interior panels cover. And I have checked ebay. But thanks for the suggestion.
  4. Exactly. I did a 1 piece floorpan and didn't have to add any extra bracing.
  5. A 2500 stall converter only stalls that high when you are holding the car still and pushing on the throttle. It will not stall that high during normal driving. I ran a 4000 rpm converter on the street in a C6 years ago. But high stall converters do make more heat period. But they can be run on the street with add on trans coolers. A 2500 stall converter is not that extreme of a stall converter at all.
  6. I'm in need of the two end panels that run from the inner wheel wells up to the rear divider/bulkhead that divides the trunk and back seat area. The bozo that was working on the car before me cut them out for some unknown reason. They're the two vertical panels on either side divider/bulkhead in the photo. Yes, I know you can buy new reproduction ones. But you have the buy the entire assembly and it would cost $350 when all I need are the two panels that are spot welded on. So if anyone has got a rusted/wrecked 69 or 70 fastback they're parting out, please drop me a pm. I'm working my rear quarters, wheel wells and trunk area and need these panels. Thanks
  7. I run a TKO with 4.11 gears with a 28" tall tire. At 60mph I'm turning around 2200 rpm. Nothing like running a modern OD transmission in a vintage muscle car.
  8. Another vote on Dan at Chockostang. I've talked with him on the phone over a brake issue. Extremely helpful and friendly. Sold me some parts at a very reasonable price.
  9. Mine is directly behind the rear end center section. As others have mentioned, put it near the tank and level to or below the level of the tank outlet. And sorry, no pictures right now as my car is torn down at the moment.
  10. Thanks. Cost me less than $25 to build (1" square tubing and casters from Harbor Freight). I used it as an excuse to teach my son in law to weld. I use my motorcycle jack to lift the rear end in and out of the cradle. That's why the rear is so open.
  11. If you have the money to spend, I would suggest either a built up C4 or stock C6 with a Gear Vendors overdrive unit.
  12. If you you have to have a nodular 9" 3rd member, get the Strange Pro Nodular version. It looks almost identical to the Ford N case and it's much beefier. This is what I run with a Daytona pinion support. Personally I feel it's not worth it to spend the money for an original N case unless you were needing it for an accurate restoration. The originals are all over 40 years old and probably been beat on in their lives. The Strange N case is much stronger than the originals ever were. Notice how much thicker the area around the pinion support bearing is with the Strange case? Also the carrier bearing area is thicker with much thicker caps. Plus metallurgy is better today than 50 years ago. Strange N case http://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-n1905 Ford N case My rear end
  13. Do yourself a favor and replace them. It's probably weakened from being bent. I found my left shock tower and apron butchered after a hack repair job sometime in the past. I ended up replacing everything from the firewall forward. It's so nice have new straight sheetmetal to work with.
  14. I cut a 1/4 turn out of both springs at a time. Then drive the car for a few miles and see how it sits. I think I ended up taking out about 1/2-3/4 turn. And cold cut the springs. No torches or plasma cutters. The heat screws up the temper of the springs. I cut mine with a die grinder.
  15. Contrary to what someone else was saying about bottoming out with .620 springs, I run them and I'm lowered about 3 inches front and rear. And I have no issues with bottoming out the front end. I use Global West Tubular upper control arms.
  16. No doubt. I should have known better than to answer him.
  17. Do you really read and comprehend what other people post? My first post was in response to this, In case you need a recap here's what I wrote, Nothing was mentioned about crashes. You and I both talked talked about quality of handling. Try to stay on topic and not stray.
  18. If you're talking about the Arning modification, aka "Shelby drop", you're dead wrong. Watch this video and you'll see why it's a good modification regardless of your driving style. Go to the 3:26 mark
  19. Not one documented case of a 351C being installed into a 1969 Mustang has been discovered. Lots of people claim they had an cousin's neighbor's mother's brother's little sister's uncle's 4th cousin's friend that had a 1969 Mustang with a factory installed 351C. Up until about the early mid 90's there wasn't much in the way of performance parts (specifically aftermarket aluminum heads) to make a 351W run. So if you wanted a hot Ford small block you dropped a 351C in. With the exception of the exhaust and a few other minor items, a 351C will bolt up in place of a 351W. So a lot of 351W engines were replaced with 351C engines back in the day. The 351M is a member of the 335 engine family (351C, 351M and 400). The 351M has a 1" taller deck just like a 400. The only parts that interchange between a 351M/400 and a 351C would be the heads, distributor, oil pan, timing chain cover, water pump and maybe a couple of other parts. The 351M/400 use big block motor mounts and the big block (429/460) bellhousing pattern. This was to allow them to be dropped into cars and trucks in place of 429/460 engines. As mentioned before the 351M came out in 1974 which was in the midst of the Arab Oil Embargo which caused huge oil shortages in the U.S. at that time. Many people went to small engines or smaller cars. A 351M/400 would take some work to install in a Mustang. You'd have to come up with some motor mounts, use a big block transmission and fabricate headers since none are made to fit that engine in a Mustang. You'd probably have issues getting headers to work since the 351M/400 is wider than a 351C and headers are tight on a 351C in a vintage Mustang.
  20. You can not interchange 69 and 70 fenders as far as headlight bucket fitment. 1970 Fender 1969 Fender
  21. You can not interchange 69 and 70 fenders as far as headlight bucket fitment. 1970 Fender 1969 Fender
  22. What transmission are you running? Non overdrive transmission I would recommend 3.25 or 3.50. If you're running an overdrive transmission, 3.70-4.11. I run 4.11's behind a TKO 5 speed and I only turn about 2100 rpm at 60mph. Also your tire height is going to play into your gear selection. I have no idea of sub frame connectors for a vert.
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