-
Content Count
124 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Posts posted by 7TCatvert
-
-
-
2 years later and problem never came back, definitely the spark plug wires.
-
So after switching out what I felt was everything. I switched out the spark plug wires out to 8mm and after 1 month all problems solved.
-
I have the correct Petronix coil and the harness was rebuilt by the person on here who does them...
-
As title says I have 2 with ford bolt pattern. The problem for me is the backspacing was 3.77 and with the 255/60/15 were just a little too wide.
The have about 300 miles on them. Includes cap.Paid 450 from summit. Looking for 300 plus shipping. Box is 24x24x24 and weighs about 60 pounds. Shipping is from Ofallon, MO 63368. So you can figure the shipping cost yourself, I will use ups or fed ex which ever works for you.
-
All I did was use longer bolts the bracket fit on the top of it....
-
The Petronix is interesting. No sure how to test that. I would hate to spend another 120 for an another Petronix.
I need to look at the cap and see if maybe it is hitting or jumping...
Tank is brand new along with all of the fuel lines and hoses. I have 3 really good ground straps( I over did these)
-
Driving down the highway last night. Was on the road about 20 minutes at about 70 mph and the car shut off. I tried popping the clutch a couple times no go after a few frantic moments( was at night and I was in the middle lane of a 5 lane highway) got her to the side of the road. Shut the car off, gathered myself for a minute and the car started right up and I was on my way again.
The only thing I did notice is that before the tach was jumping erratically. I was thinking the ground was maybe loose. After it started tach was fine. The tach is a rocket man tach so it is out of the ignition loop.
The car has th Petronix 2, new Petronix coil, new distrib, cap, rotor, plug wires, basically everything in the ignition system is new....
Any ideas?
-
-
-
Midlife does a nice job refurbishing, he did mine which was a mess and everything works correctly
-
-
When using that radiator, did you have an "issue" with finding radiator brackets that would work without modification?
I had understood that "Mustang Depot" had them but they are on backorder with an approximate six week ETA. The "stock" brackets will not fit without modifications as the radiator is actually wider at the top and bottom. It looks like I will have to do some modifications unless I can find the correct ones.
BT
No issues fit perfectly...no modifications....I will try to get a picture up this weekend..
-
I also have that one it was in my 428 Cougar before I replaced it. It worked well just did not look right. I have 2 extra working radiators now....plus a couple of 20" ones....
-
My 390 had been running a little hot around 200. It was new heavy duty radiator from MU.
I decided to switch it out to an aluminum one off eBay. I have a Griffen one in my Cougar but was not going to spend another 600. So I thought I would give this one a chance.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291620347931?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Lowered the temp down to 185, all day long. Fit was perfect and it looks good in natural color.
I now have an extra radiator if anyone needs one.
Ardmxurfal reacted to this -
I have an extra set of original sail panels...
-
I installed the speaker pods...but chilin is right is does block my emergency brake and my high beams. I could not see given up my floor vents with the BB gets awful hot in there...
-
I too am not aware of any dash light issues. Maybe if the car has an alternator warning light instead of an ammeter, their might be issues with the alternator warning light. Only because the resistance value of the resistor wire in series with the alternator warning light is different for the different alternator types.
Yes your alternator light will stay on...
-
I was just having a similar conversion with my transmission friend last night. 10 years ago people would just give him c4 and c6 transmissons. Now he has to pay decent money for c4 cores (100). I would keep it if you have the room. Someday maybe worth a coup lot bucks...
-
Very nice....I hope your car brings every bit of 40... There is much more than that in it that's for sure...
-
Off the top of my head I would say pass. If you don't know the answer, You need to have someone who knows restorations look at it for you. As Brian said restorations are very expensive I did mine, even with me doing most of the work myself I am still upside down, and it's a 390 car with a 4 speed.
-
-
I believe the hole for the clutch pedal is already in the bracket .The standard brake pedal and clutch pedal mount in the same hole .The power brake pedal is mounted higher but the clutch stays in the same location .
That is correct does not matter if disk or drum....you may have to trim the brake pedal a little though
-
I agree no need for compression. If you can assemble everything after tear down then the machine work should not really be that expensive. Tearing off the heads you will see the condition of the cylinders. The heads should be rebuilt if never done. Hardened valves for the unleaded gas. Also machine the head surfaces and if you are reusing the exhaust manifolds have them surfaced at the same shop. You also may want to bump up the cam a little, newer cams are give you much more than stock...
Otherwise sounds like you are on the right path on what you need to do, hopefully you won't have to have it bored and have use the old Pistons. That will save you quite a bit.
2013 Mustang seats in a 69 Sportroof
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I unbolted the 14 stock seat rails. It looks like I am going to be able to just put square metal across the bottom and bolt the stock rails on to it...the seats are actually lower than stock...