Big Secz

Hey Pak, I need to know if you can do a quick color change for me. The two-tone silver/black Torino, I'd like the silver color changed to the dark green color of my car, and black areas changed to a charcoal gray color (any charcoal gray will work, just don't want black may play around with lighter grays). I like the two-tone scheme on the car but I don't want to go silver and want to stick with the stock dark metallic green since it'll be easier and less expensive than a complete color change.

First of all for the amount you we are talking here, like someone mentioned, it would be in small claims court and lawyers wouldn't even get involved. His "lawyer" is probably some golf buddy trying to scare you into submission via paper. Even if he took you to small claims court it wouldn't hold up. First of all you sold the car as-is with no implied warranty. Secondly you don't need a buyers order because the title acts as the buyers order. He then transferred the title into his name and therefore accepted delivery of the car. In other words he now owns the car and it is not your problem. I'd block his number so he couldn't text me anymore and be done with it.

The majority of it is built out of 1/2" MDF. I used a router and a round over bit to round off the top, front and rear edges of the sides. For the curved top panel in the very front I used quarter round to bend to follow the curve and then used 1/4" luan to cover it it because of it's pliability it's able to bend without cracking or breaking. I also added accent stitching along the leading edge of the cup holder and iPod docking areas.

Here's the one I built for my Torino. It was my first attempt but learned a few things in the process. One of the things I chose to do was go with European style cabinet hinges instead of the typical piano style hinge for the lid/armrest. Just gives it a cleaner finished I think and the lid stands open on it's own unlike with piano hinges, you have to hold the lid open. The wife did the gray stitching for me. All-in-all I thought it was a pretty fun project....Aside from accidentally drilling into my finger.

I have a 351C in my Torino....My Mustang had a 302. This is my first experience with a 351C, so I'm not sure on reliability compared to the Windsor motors, but already like it better than my old 302. Runs like a sewing machine for an all original motor with 45k original miles on it.

No one makes them for the speaker area. You'd have to fab something. I've seen people put them where the factory vent hole is for an AC dash pad. But for the speaker area, you could go with something like this. http://www.simcoaftermarket.com/assets/images/products/2027_guagepod/2027-702.jpg I opted to keep the speaker when I did mine and go with three individual pods.

Your best bet is to find an OEM set off of another car, even if you have to paint them. The aftermarket ones are fiberglass and fitment is poor. OEM is plastic.

The reproduction fiberglass ones don't fit well.

They do make them aftermarket in fiberglass but the fitment in my opinion is not that great as I had installed them in my '70 vert. Mainly up around the stainless trim at the top, they don't have the correct contour as the originals. http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Moldings/pillar-mold.htm http://www.cjponyparts.com/black-pillar-plastic-convertible-1969-1970/p/PPPT2/

Before I ordered my carpet I requested samples of the cut pile and Essex and they were identical. I opted to go with the cut pile. There's nothing extra you need to do with the Essex the extra work is due to the Mass Back. Due to the thickness and stiffness of the backing you may need to use a heat gun to make it a little more pliable to fit the contours better. I pulled mine out of the box and let it sit out in a spare room in my house for two weeks until I got around to installing it. Even then I still needed a heat gun for certain areas. Then the other challenge is making the holes for the seat belts and seats. I used an awl and an old wood burning tool I had lying around. The wood burning tool worked perfect to melt the holes but once you use it on the Mass Back it's no good for anything else. The rubber naturally melts to it. Some people heat up straight pins to melt carpet but that will not work with the Mass Back. It's just too thick.

You may not have missed my first post on this thread. I installed the ACC carpet with Mass Back in my Torino. The Mass Back material is approximately an 1/8" rubber that is very stiff to hold the shape of the molded carpet. It will for sure help with sound deadening, and they claim it will work as a heat barrier. I'm not sure how well everything works as I have not yet had my car out on the road since I installed it a month ago. But in my opinion the Mass Back was work the extra money.

I've read a lot of bad things about Dynamat on this and the Torino forum. Ultimately what I was able to deduce was that Dynamat is good for sound deadening but terrible for heat resistance. The Lizard Skin I think is best suited to address both. Personally I went for the more cost effective route and bought 3 rolls of Frost King adhesive backed duct insulation and foil duct tape for the seams from my local Home Depot. Cost me about $60 and did the entire floor. I also applied POR15 to the floor prior to putting down the insulation. I opted to pay extra for the upgraded MassBack from ACC when I ordered my carpet as well.

In my '70 my horn and flashers quit working at the same time. Traced it to a blown fuse. I think the change over to a fuse for the horns was '70.

Sold

ACC for carpet and TMI for door panels, seat covers and foam.

I personally have never dealt with a reproduction door, but I have friends who have on '67 and '68 Mustangs and every one of them was shorter than the factory door by 1/8" which resulted in large gaps. If it were me I wouldn't chance it. I would find an original door. They shouldn't be too hard to find. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Ford-Mustang-door-original-/360868105649?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54056a4db1&vxp=mtr

Sorry I skimmed it quickly. If you are going to supercharge it I would ditch the FMX for a better trans built to support the HP.

That's the 4.6L, you are looking at notching or eliminating the shock towers for starter, plus some trans tunnel modifications. It should fit under a stock hood. Try these resources: http://www.themustangshop.com/modswap.cfm

351 Windsor shakers are a rare beast and can bring a pretty penny. Why not sell it buy the correct one for a 351C and pocket the rest of the money or put it into another area of the project.

Sold

This came off of my '71 Torino, but I imagine they are pretty universal from '69 and up. Will need to be cleaned and repainted, other than that in excellent condition. Comes complete with snorkel, base, and lid as well as vacuum and PCV connectors. I am missing the wing nut though. Make an offer.

I have an OEM 302/C4 Kickdown rod that came out of my '70 vert when I had it. Make an offer.

Vinyl is in excellent shape, console was originally red and was spray dyed black. Red is showing through in some small areas, so it could use another coat of spray dye. Make an offer....

Finished the dome/map light upgrade today.

So my next little project is replacing the factory dome light with a dome/map light out of a 2001 Explorer. I wish I could say I came up with this idea on my own, but I saw it in another Torino. I scored the light on eBay in excellent shape for $10. Once I got it apart I had to figure out the wiring issue. Let me preface by saying I'm not an electrical guru, so someone may not agree with my approach. But this is what I came up with. Since my headliner is already in I only have a single power wire to run the light. I discovered that for the 2001 Explorer light from factory there were two power wires and one ground wire that ran to the three prong connector. All three light sockets share the same ground and one power is for the center dome light and another power runs to both switches for the two map lights. To hook it up with a single power wire you have to run a single power wire to where the factory ground would go so all three bulbs get power from a single wire. Then I ran a jumper wire to ground the center light and switches. I used three factory screw holes to connect the wires. You have to run it this way for a couple reasons, first being that there is a cylindrical spacer on the back of the dome light base for the screw hole that I ran the power wire to. This fully encases the screw to prevent contact with the metal roof. The other two holes that I ran the ground to do not have this. They just have a linear spacer still leaving the screws exposed. Also too, two of the mounting holes run through the circuit for the switches, so you don't want your power running to the two screws that mount it to the roof. The down side to a single wire hookup is that in order to use the map lights the center dome light will be on also. With a two wire hookup you can use the map lights without the center light. Another coincidence is that two of the mounting holes on the base match up perfectly with the factory Torino holes which will make installation really easy.