Big Secz
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Posts posted by Big Secz
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I'm just trying to get the car where I can drive it. Right now I have almost a half a turn on the steering wheel of play in the steering. I've tried to tighten the box up but it made no change. It's impossible to keep it on the road. And the more it sits the more I lose intrest in it. The reason I wanted to go with a rack and pinion is because of I get the steering box rebuilt and then there's another issue then that'll add up to the same or more than a r&p set up. And I don't know from personal experience, but I heard even with all new steering components on our cars there's still play and wandering in the steering. Just trying to do it once and be done with it.Here's the thing, you can replace and rebuild all of the stock components and it will be cheaper than R&P and come close to what a Borgeson kit will cost. The difference is you will save time with it all being direct bolt on with no additional modifications needed.
Even with all new/rebuilt components you will have a little play in the wheel, that's normal for stock steering, I believe the allowable is roughly 1/2" in either direction. You have to remember you are dealing with old steering technology and it will NOT be like driving a more modern car. If you want a more modern feel then you will need to pony up the extra money for an R&P setup but of course the trade off there is you lose turning radius and if you plan on putting headers on your car you have some limitations there as well. Anytime you make one modification over a stock setup it usually snowballs and results in other modifications or adjustments needing to be made.
Bottom line is you can ask 100 people their opinion and you will get 100 different answers. But you have to also set realistic expectations and that is you can only do so much to get these cars to drive and perform like modern cars.
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Big Secz I read your write up on this system and know that you had a return to center condition and have talked to you about it before. One question I forgot to ask you, did the steering seem easier to steer regardless of the other problems?Dave
The steering was stiffer and was only slightly better than manual steering. It did not provide smooth easy steering at all.
And it wasn't just a return to center issue, the steering wheel wouldn't return at all period. Whatever direction you turned the wheel is just stayed that way. Borgeson says that you need to have 5 degrees positive caster, and I have yet to find anyone that has been able to get that much positive caster out of stock Mustang strut rods. I wasn't even able to get half of that with my stock strut rods.
Put it this way, for the money and hassle spent on the install, I would have rather just had my original steering box rebuilt.
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The fuel line comes through the grommet toward the front of the car. See blue line in pic below (also notice the difference in thickness in the lines in the original image, the thicker is the fuel line). The brake line comes out the side of the proportioning valve and through the grommet on opposite side of the fuel line and then runs straight into the soft brake line.
The second picture you posted is correct routing of the brake line for the passenger side.
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I can only speak in terms of my Torino as my Mustang was a vert and had no package tray. The package tray goes in first and then the trim. The "hockey sticks" rest on top of the tray as that is what holds it down and in place.
As for thickness I'm not certain because I never bothered to measure the thickness. My guess is it's anywhere from 1/8" - 1/4" in thickness. I'm leaning toward the lesser of the two.
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There are two washers.
I've never seen disc brakes routed that way. That picture has the brake line going all the way to the front of the car under the washer reservoir. It should be routed like below.
The picture you showed is where the fuel line should be routed and they used it for the brake line.
Of course the more I poke around online the more variations I see.
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Had my headlights do this to me a couple years ago. They would go off without warning, right in the middle of nowhere. Boom! You're in the dark now at 50 mph... I simply had a faulty light switch. Just replaced it and it never messed with me again. You might have this issue in addition to the ignition stuff.Yeah, it could be coincidental that the light switch is going bad the same time as the ignition switch. Although this is the first time I drove this car in the dark since I've had it so the light switch could have been bad all along and I never would have known.
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I installed a Borgeson system in my Mustang and hated it. Others have had better results.
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The only thing that throws me off is the headlights. The idiot lights and the car not shutting off, I can see how they would be related, but not sure how it would also effect the headlights. Would have to look at the wiring diagram and see how the headlight circuit ties into the ignition switch.
God I hope that's all it is. That's an easy fix.
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First off I want to say I hate electrical....Loath it with a passion.....I know there is an electrical guru out there somewhere.
Even though I'm dealing with a '71 Torino it's pretty much the same as a Mustang. So tonight I took the car for a long drive to a cruise-in. I get there and turn the car off and the Alt and Oil idiot lights came on and stayed on. I disconnected the battery until I was ready to leave.
When I left I started the car and the idiot lights went out. Also it was dark out so I had my headlights on and twice the headlights went out for about a second each time and came back on. I get home and go to turn the car off and it doesn't shut off, I had to turn the key back and forth a couple of times before the car shut off, and naturally the idiot lights came back on again.
My guess is my ignition switch is bad....am I correct in that assumption or is there something else that could cause this issue?
I HATE electrical....:angry:
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Here is a pic I found on the web that shows what I'm talking about. The drum brake hard line and the dis brake soft line. I've seen where people have come up with ways to make it work. It's up to you.
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If you're not planning on doing a concourse car I can make this easy on you. You can use Eastwood's brake gray on the brake components
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-gray-aerosol-13-oz.html
And metal cast gray on the suspension components.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-spray-gray-set.html
I used brake gray when I did the brakes on my Torino. Here are the before and after pics.
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Thanks for all of the input guys!Big Secz-I may of been scratching my head on that one, thanks!
If you use the existing drum brake hard lines you will have to cut them and double flare them to get them to work.
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Wow, cool story! And it's "our" forum, you included. Welcome, and good continued luck!Notwithstanding the motor, I would return the rest of the car to stock. I would not do any more non Boss mods to it. The quarter mod reversal and stripes can't be too much cash. You can live with the motor I suppose. If the Boss turns out too costly for you, you should be able to sell it for a good penny.
Bob
Just to be clear I only referenced the Boss302 forum becasue there is a ton of information if you choose to do a concourse restoration on the car. However there are people on that forum that are not the friendliest. But if you wanted to troll the site to gain some knowledge it would be worth it. A buddy of mine is on that forum and has restored several Boss 302 cars and is a real stand up guy. His handle is Olaf427 if you want to look him up and ask him some questions along the way. The people on THIS forum are friendlier and more responsive.
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The "G" in the VIN identifies the car as a Boss 302. Order a Marti report on the car to get all of the information such as correct color, options, etc. and work on rebuilding it back to a Boss 302. Leave the drive train as it is for now but change the appearance back to the correct Boss 302. Then when time and money allows you can work on converting the motor, trans and rear back over to the correct Boss parts it came with (identified on the Marti report). The value of this car will be in converting it back to a correct Boss 302. If done properly you could have a $60k car on your hands. Better than spending money on it to keep it looking like a Mach 1 and diminishing the value. Also may want to poke around the Boss 302 registry site (http://www.boss302.com) and their forum for some input as well (http://www.boss302.com/smf/).
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I believe you need to change the direction of the hard line. For drum brakes the hard line loops around and points to the rear of the car. For disc brakes the hard line is straight and faces the front of the car and the soft line connection/opening faces the rear of the car for disc brakes.
Here's my Torino but it's the same on Mustangs.
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I have to question the legitimacy of this article given it's from a satire news paper and there is no other information about this anywhere on the net. In this day and age there would be pictures all over the web of this fiasco if it were real.
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Thanks Big Secz, I did a forum search and read your thread. Looks like a good solution. Is there enough clearance under the speakers to fit factory style air con vents? A/C is on my shopping list with the summer temps here in Oz regularly topping 40*CMy car was a non-AC car so I'm not sure what the clearance issue would be. You could go with a smaller speaker like a 3 1/2" like this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CS354/Kicker-40CS354.html?tp=105
You could measure the height of an original factory speaker from the bottom of the speaker magnet to the top of the speaker woofer to get the depth and find something similar. Or you could just do some creative fabrication for the AC ducts.
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I fabricated a bracket that allowed me to mount two 4x6 speakers in the stock dash speaker location. I used JB weld putty to hold it in place. Albeit not the prettiest but it worked great.
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Started the Torino this past weekend for the first time all Winter. A couple weeks ago I tried to start the car and the battery was dead and couldn't even jump the car. Bought a new battery and dropped it in, put the key in the ignition turned the key then a loud "POP" and lost all power. Usually never a good sign. I checked the fuses and none blew. Took a test light and everything under the hood was getting power. Just before I was about the get really pissed I followed the battery ground wire to the block, it was a little loose, once I jiggled it I got power again. Easy enough fix. I turned the car over and she fired right up and the 351C ran like a sewing machine. Now I'm ready for Spring, if it ever gets here. Expecting snow here tomorrow.
Thanks to 67Rally for the renderings, I'm experimenting with color schemes. Leaning toward the black/green and painting the bumpers the dark metallic green body color.
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My '70 vert had a full size spare. I think space savers were options mostly used in fastbacks.
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Hey Pak,
I need to know if you can do a quick color change for me. The two-tone silver/black Torino, I'd like the silver color changed to the dark green color of my car, and black areas changed to a charcoal gray color (any charcoal gray will work, just don't want black may play around with lighter grays).
I like the two-tone scheme on the car but I don't want to go silver and want to stick with the stock dark metallic green since it'll be easier and less expensive than a complete color change.
69 gt sr
in Project Progress Forum
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It looks like your glass is leaning inward a little too much. Would need to loosen the the nuts under the door to the bottom of the vertical guides and then pull the bottom of the guide inward toward the inside of the car. Will push the glass outward some.