kennygunit

What in-tank fuel pump do you guys recommend for a Fuel Safe Fuel Cell? I was considering going external, but i don't know if i am going to be able to handle that buzzing those pumps make. 400HP 351w, Open Track Racer/Weekend Warrior. Fuel Safe Fuel Cell

Contemplating deleting the rear seat in my mustang coupe. Its going to be a weekend warrior/open track racer so I don't really plan on using it for passenger transportation. Anyways, I wanted to see pictures of your guys' rear seat deletes! Especially if it was on a 69 Coupe!

I noticed a lot of the harnesses don't come with the square plug that goes into the firewall...where can I get one that has it already? http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Product/C9ZZ-14290-A.aspx?wid=141

I am using the stock wiring harness under the dash, and throughout the rest of the vehicle. The car does not have a tach, but i'm hoping to add one. I believe I just have the main harness connector (square one), and the firewall end of the harness from underdash wiring to engine feeds and alternator/battery area

Hello, Which harnesses do you guys recommend for my 1969 Coupe? I need all the harnesses from the firewall to the headlamps. I plan on running a full MSD ignition with 6AL box, and a 3G Alternator. Also, the battery is in the trunk, but all the solenoids are in the engine bay. Thanks!

I'm looking to upgrade my stock instrument cluster and in not sure which one looks and performs well. So, let's see some pictures of what you all have! Maybe also list... 1) why you got it 2) if you like it or not and why Thanks!

Hello, I think i found a 9" rear axle housing online for my 1969 Mustang coupe, but i want to make sure it correct. I found it used for $200, and it comes with 28 spline axles (i don't need the axles though because i'm going 31 spline). Do these dimensions sound correct? about 54 1/2" housing flange to housing flange, no axles in it Center to center for the perches is about 43 3/4" Are those the right dimension and is that a good price? Thanks!

After we found that problem, we went ahead and started working on balancing my connecting rods. The biggest difference between the lightest and heaviest rod was 10grams, so i had to shave off about 7grams on the big end in order to get it to an acceptable weight. We just used a grinder to shave off the weight. The final thing we did before the weekend was install the rear main seal. Pretty simple, just slid it one with some oil on the inside, and RTV on the outside. We couldn't get it all the way in because the engine stand was in the way, so i'll have to tackle that once its off the stand. Thats it so far! I've ordered a ton of more parts and goodies that will be arriving shortly. Next week I plan on finishing up the bottom end by throwing on a Canton oil pan, the timing chain cover, water pump, fuel pump, and hopefully throw on my new heads! Thanks for reading, and stay tuned!

12/10/11 I've been doing a lot of work on my engine build! I have about 8 days left to build this motor, so its getting down the wire. I have all the parts i need (except intake and carb), so i've been working on assembly! First thing i did was install my cam bearings. This was a very easy process, just match the bearing number, to the number listed on the box, and with a lot of persuasion, they go right in! After all the cam bearing were in place, we moved onto the freeze plugs. Those were also very easy to install. We just took a socket that was roughly the same size, lined it up, and hammered them in! I received my camshaft in from Comp Cams. I got a lot of input from a lot of different people, and this what i finally decided on: Once the Cam was installed, we moved onto getting the crankshaft put in. The bearings were placed down, and we put the crankshaft on top of them dry so we can get a measurement using plati-gauge. I don't have any pictures of the measurements, but it ended up being .002" (according to alldata, i needed to be at .0015, but my teacher said .002" is more normal, so it will be fine). I torqued the main caps down to 100ft-lbs, and moved onto installing the thrust plate for the camshaft, and the timing chain. I ordered a Comp Cam doubler roller timing chain. Installation for it was very easy. Just needed a little persuasion to get it on. One major problem I ran into was trying to get a fuel pump eccentric to work with the cam pins they provided. Since I am running a carburetor setup, i need to be able to run a mechanical fuel pump. I just got some new pins, but I am not sure if they fit yet. I won't be able to find out until Monday. Thanks for the heads on that Mach 1. I noticed there were 2 pins that came in the box, but even the longer one didn't fit. I just have to be careful that i don't run into any problems with timing chain cover clearance.

Thanks for the advice Mach 1, but i've gotten to the point with my heads where i won't be able to fix it. I've already lost some head material trying to drill out the bolt! Would the 58cc version be better for me? I have flat top pistons, took off .016" from decking and .009" from the heads (.025" total) Stock compression ratio with dish pistons was 8.8:1

Sadly, it doesn't look like i'm going to be able to use my stock heads. The teacher and I spent all class trying to get the bolt out, only to find out during the drilling process, the we won't be able to get it out. So, now i'm back into looking for new heads and cam. I talked to the guys at summit racing, and they suggested this setup: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFR-1428/ and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51402000/ Would i be better off with 58cc or 72cc for the combustion chamber volume? I have flat top pistons

Only reason i am considering new heads is i found a problem with one of the threads on the intake side of one of them. I have to drill out the bolt, and heal-a-coil it. I'm going to keep working on it for the next week, but its getting to the point where i might not have the heads done in time with the rest of the engine! As of now though, i am sticking with the stocks. Just thinking of a backup plan :thumbup:

Hello, I am in the middle of a 96 351w build (there is a thread posted here of my build), and I need some suggestions on which cam and heads to get. I want to get fully assembled heads, as well as a cam thats good enough for autocross and open track events. I also don't want to spend over $2,000 for both. The rest of the engine is stock. Stock bore, crank, roller lifters. Only thing thats been changed is cast flat top pistons. Let me know if you have any suggestions! P.S. I am also looking for an intake a carb if you want to throw in some suggestions on that too!

Which engine was in the car previously?

Hey, I have been thinking about all the new parts i'm going to need. Tomorrow I am going to a local performance shop and going to order a rebuild kit, and see what they would suggest in terms of cams, pistons and other upgrades. Going to get a mild cam and flat top pistons to get better compression. I'm going to get new springs, and all new front accessories. I'll keep you all updated on what i order :thumbup1:

Yes, i bought some ARP connecting rods bolts. I am also going to check for roundness and hone as needed. Ill look into those head gaskets as well. I was just going to use one from a master rebuild kit O.O 1) yea, i need to get a carb for an automatic. Isn't 700cfm a little too much? I was thinking i would need a 600, 650 max. Also, that intake looks good. Just need to make sure i can fit it with a stock hood 2) Thanks for the info on that. Didn't want to screw that up! O.O 3) I totally forgot about the fuel pump. :cursing: That should answer the questions as to which year timing chain cover i need, hehe Thanks for the response!

11/17/11 This week i just about finished all the machine work and everything. Here is what i got done this week! First thing i did was remove the wrist pin from the pistons and connecting rods. Its crazy the amount of pressure needed to slide this things out. Took about 4 tons of pressure to get it moving, then about 2 tons of continuous pressure after that! Here is the table with all my pistons, wrist pins, connecting rods, and rod bolts. You might be wondering why my connecting rods look new. I went ahead and glass blasted them (protecting the bearing surfaces), and also did another trick that my teacher suggested. He told us we should grind down the casting marks on the connecting rods. This helps with the oil drain back apparently. Thats something i did not know! After that, i did one final cleaning on the block, and it was ready to be painted! Of course, i had to go with the classic ford blue. Here are some pictures of the painting! Thats it for now! Starting next week, i get to order my rebuild kit and all my new parts. I have some questions for you guys though! 1) What intake a carburetor setup would you guys suggest? Looking for performance 2) When it comes to getting a timing chain cover, water pump, alternator, harmonic balancer, and other accessories, do i go for 1969 Parts or 1996 Parts? 3) Anything else i should do before i start assembly? Thanks for reading!

I got to talk to my teacher today, he said that my block will be fine just running stock bore. I'm not going to do any boring, just honing. Thanks for the help everyone! Full update coming on thursday!

Yes, .016, typo, hehe It really is awesome. I actually enjoy going to school!

11/11/11 Sorry for the lack of updates. We finished up our valvetrain class and have moved into the short block class. I have been making a LOT of progress, so lets get to it! Once i dropped my short block off to class, we started the dis assembly progress. I had taken some pictures of it before, but they did not turn out well at all! Here is the block with the crankshaft, and pistons out! After getting the crank out, i took out my roller lifters. They are in great shape. Not sure if i want to upgrade them or not, but its good to know i could reuse them if need to. After taking the main parts off, all i had left to take off were the bearings. I had to use a camshaft bearing removal tool to get the cam bearings out. Everything looks good bearing wise! Someone else in my class had an engine that spun a bearing, im glad mine didn't have that problem! After all the freeze plugs, parts, and bearings were removed, it was not time to throw my block into the oven! The teacher had 2 blocks go in at once to save time. In the picture below, my engine is the one in the back. The oven was set to 700 degrees! After i got my engine out of the oven, i threw it into the "engine washing machine" as he calls it, hehe Before: After: After that, i had to do some measurements on the engines bore. I was checking out the pistons, and i didn't see any markings on them stating if it has been bored before or not. After some measurements, it looked like it hasn't been. The 4" bore was standard, although there was a little wear. The bottom of the cyliners stayed at 4", while the top (where all the wear occurs) ended up being about 4.001 over. Livable, but I am going to bore it anyways! (probably .030" over, suggestions?!?) Top of cylinder: Bottom: After i got those measurements, it was time to move onto my crankshaft. I plan on using my old crankshaft to save some money, so i had to make sure everything was in spec. I used a magnaflux to make sure there were no cracks, and everything turned out great. Everything was in spec! I even got a chance to polish up the journals! I also media blasted my main caps. Apparently it adds a little strength to them. The last thing i was able to do this week was to deck the block. I set it all up and had everything level. I ended up taking off about 0.016" on both sides. Everything looked new and perfect! Thats it for this week! Next week i'm going to be boring out my cylinders, grinding down my connecting rods, and start going part shopping! Let me know if anyone has any questions or suggestions, and please, let me know if i'm doing something wrong!

Thanks for the advice Bruce. I'm going to be doing some more research on porting, and will probably start working on that in December!

10/20/11 This week was a week full of labor. I completed 3 major parts, and am close to reassembly! Next thing i did was media blasted my heads. Sadly, i didn't get a picture of these heads media blasted. (There is one shown below, but its not that good. I will update it with another on monday). After i media blasted the heads, i moved onto working on my valves. I was using a valve grinder. I set the angles for my exhaust and intake valves to 44 degrees. The previous valves had some carbon build up, so i had to do some grinding to get that off. (Note: I know the valve isn't set up right, it needs to go as far into the machine as possible. I had my friend act like he was grinding it so i can get a picture ;) ) After that, i went to resurface my heads. One of the heads i threw down down was off by .006, so i had to resurface that head to get it even. The second head i threw down was off by .009. That one seemed way off at first, but after talking to my teacher, he said you can go up to .030 until you run into problems. Thats it for this week. Like i said, i've worked for a while, but only between 2/3 different jobs. Next week, i plan on checking my valve guides, seats, and also getting out 2 more bolts i found broken off in the heads (they must have broken off from the intake) Also, i ordered a SC51 Carbide Dremel Bit so i can part my intake and exhaust ports. I have never done porting before, but luckily one of the students in class has done it before and is willing to help me out. Hopefully i can get that done next week! Next week is the last week of class for the valve train portion of our class. Starting 10/31/11 we will begin working on the short block. Thats when things will get really interesting :) Thanks for keeping up with this build!

It just sucks how much time i'm putting into these heads, only to have them be pretty much worthless. I would have gotten new heads, but I don't have the funds right now. I'm trying to buy a new car O.O I've done a little research on getting these heads to be pretty decent once they have been ported. Maybe I'll look into that! :)

Yes, thats what im doing to the heads. I forgot the name of it O.O Its a giant rotisserie that shoots little beads at the head/block or whatevers put in there. Its much faster than media blasting by hand, and will look just as good. I'll post pictures of that tomorrow. The heads are actually sitting in that right now, waiting for me to start up the machine. :)

10/16/11 This week I got some work done to the heads. I didn't get very far, but i was able to get everything disassembled and ready for deep cleaning. Here is a picture of all the valves and springs taken out. The valves seem to have a lot of carbon build up, especially on the exhaust valves. I am going to use a wire wheel and clean up the valve faces, and use emery cloth on the valve stems to clean them up. Hopefully everything stays in spec! (Sorry for some blurry pictures! I had to use my camera phone, and its hard keeping a phone clean and taking a picture with dirty hands, haha) In a previous picture, i showed some bolts that were stuck inside of the block. It took me about 2 hours to get these bolts out. The worse ones were the ones that broke off from the exhaust manifold. I had to use a drill and some hex keys to get the bolts out. I didn't have a reverse drill bit handy, so i had to make due with what i had :) Here are all the rockers. They seem to be in good condition, and not worth replacing. I took all the rockers and thew them in some carburetor cleaner. They looked good already, but i wanted to make sure everything was clean. The valve keepers The combustion chamber has a lot of carbon build up as well. If i could guess, the car was running a little rich in the past. I'm going to have to clean this up. Here is one of the heads. After seeing all the dirt and rust on them, i knew i had to clean them up and make them look brand new. I threw the heads inside a jet washer to get all the oil and crud off them. They turned out alright They still aren't good enough for me, so starting Monday i am going to throw them into the shot blaster to get them looking brand new. Stay tuned! I plan on cleaning up the valves and resurfacing the heads. Hopefully by the end of the week, i will be ready for assembly :001_tongue: