Wade

I found some wires this afternoon when I took the console out. There is a group of wires that split, one section goes to a plug which has a light for the ashtray, the other wires coming off the split go nowhere. There is a ground wire and some connections for something? any ideas?

Well I stand corrected, I was sure that there were no 69 mustangs with a 351C. It appears there were 4 made after all. Would love to have one of those! Wonder what happened to them? From what I can see on that sign, it says something about: "other 2 ...... believed to be destroyed". That would mean there are only 2 in existence? That would be more rare than the 1971 convertible hemi Cuda; 11 made for the US and last one that was sold went for 2.2 million 3 years ago. http://www.autoblog.com/2007/01/20/2007-rm-auction-scottsdale-hemi-cuda-convertible-brings-2-2/ Someone was offered 4 mil for one and would not take it. Going on the theory of rarity increases the value, a factory 351C 69 mustang would have to be worth at least 3 mil? edit... By the way, back to your original question. If you are not restoring back to original, and if you have a 351C Cobra Jet engine, then I'd put Cobra Jet on the shaker. Otherwise if it is a 2 bolt main block I would put 351 on the shaker. As Mach1Rider said pull the pan and see what you got. FYI: Only the Q-code 351 "Cobra Jet" (1971-1974), R-code "Boss" 351 (1971), and R-code 351 "HO" (1972) versions have 4-bolt mains.

OK so there is one key for doors and trunk and one key for ignition. The problem is that the offset is wrong for the doors and trunk. They have the square key and an offset which matches the ignition. It seems as though the doors and trunk locks were replaced with an incorrect year? Maybe they used different offsets in different years, or the repros are done wrong. I would like to get all the locks correct. before posting this I did a quick search and I have seen complete kits which include ignition and all locks. But it appears they are being keyed all the same. This may explain why the offset is different on the replacements on the car now. Any manufacturer recommended for replacements that are OEM style?

That's what I thought. I also thought the door key and the ignition key were the same? I have the same offset for all locks and one key fits the ignition and the other key fits the doors and trunk.

Your car would have come with a 351 2v Windsor and someone replaced it with a 351 Cleveland then stuck all those Cleveland tags on the car. If you're not wanting to restore the car to factory original specs, I would stay with the Cleveland engine.

OK this may seem like a silly question. I was wondering if the ignition lock and the trunk lock took the same style of key. You know how the key is offset. Kind of hard to explain but you know when you look down the key while holding it in a vertical plane, my ignition has the top part toward the left and then jogs to the right. Anyway, my car has the exact same type of offset for the trunk and ignition. I thought it would be cool to get the old style keys so I can have the square one for the ignition and the round type for the trunk. So I ordered the factory replacements complete with a pony on them. Currently both keys are square with same offset, the ones I ordered have the round trunk key with a reverse offset. Is the key wrong, or is the trunk lock wrong? Or does this even make sense :) When I'm up to it I'll tackle some more challenging questions for everyone. I still have to remove the dash and figure out some wiring problems. I was looking forward to having some time off to work on the stang but instead got sick so I'm lying down being catered to by my wife and sitting up enough to use my laptop.

I hope someone on this forum can help you. I want to applaud your effort for trying to do some of the restoration to OEM specs. It is difficult to do because during the past 40 years these cars have been altered and modified so much and there does not seem to be much interest in making something original. I always thought it was fun trying to spend the extra time and effort to get all the details just right. It is getting more difficult to figure out what is factory correct with some of the details. I would love to find some old survivor cars and spend a lot of time just photographing every detail to preserve digitally what was done from the factory. Good luck with you efforts.

Does anyone know where the original location is from the factory? Mine is on the solenoid. I just looked in the old Haynes manual, page 62 for those who have it, it shows it going to the back of the alternator: "Center Tap of Alternator (Black identification ring).

do they look like this attachment

Thanks! where can I get the replacement rubber pads for it? can I just pick up something from one of the local autoparts stores or will I need to get it from one of the online vintage mustang parts suppliers? By the way, that does make sense. When I held the plate in place it looked like it was going to angle down too much and not be straight vertically. I really like to do every detail as correct as possible with everything I do. That can be seen as a disability! At least it drives my wife crazy sometimes.

OK thought I'd try to put an attachment here. I went out and took a quick photo.

I got my new registration sticker for a license plate and went to put the license plate on the rear and discovered that the bottom holes do not line up. Is there a bracket that bolts to the car and then the plate bolts to the bracket? I thought I'd start with one of the easy problems I've encountered. There are a couple of other issues I figured I'll tackle later.

what is the part number on that emblem?

Well the manufacturer is Forel Publishing and to their credit he has emailed me promptly and offering advice to resolve the issue. If I'm not satisfied he is also offering a full refund. They use a program called "OwnerGuard encryption software" it is made by Armjisoft and gets activated through a separate program that needs to be installed on your computer and it activates the encrypted PDF files with a code via the internet. Then it allows you to use it and had a statement during the install it will only work with this current operating system but I went back and looked and apparently it can be installed in up to 3 computers. So I have to assume I can change to a new OS and will think it is a 2nd computer then. And when I get to 3 changes then I'll have to contact them. I don't like the idea of a product that will expire on you. A book won't self destruct after you read it 3 times and force you to buy a new one. I usually like technology but I will never get used to e-books, they are too much of a hassle. We have a bookstore nearby that specializes in having anything and everything you can imagine. It covers two floors the size of a large department store. Haven't been in there in a long time but they have a large section with old repair manuals.

How big were those tents? in the youtube link posted the guy said 2 of the tents went down. Are these large permanent tents? He also said there were building inspectors out, I didn't think you needed a building inspector for a tent.

How big were those tents? in the youtube link posted the guy said 2 of the tents went down. Are these large permanent tents? He also said there were building inspectors out, I didn't think you needed a building inspector for a tent.

I just received a 5 volume shop manual and a "1965-1972 Ford Car Masters Parts and Accessory Catalog" in the mail today. Both are in PDF format on CD's. I thought it would be great to look up what I need at the time and print off the page or two I need. I find it cumbersome to navigate, it keeps crashing my Adobe reader - which is the latest version and I'm using vista ultimate. So it isn't a problem with my computer it is the software. They have it encrypted which I didn't realize when I purchased it, they encryption only allows you to use it on the installed computer with the current operating system. If I upgrade to windows 7 I lose the ability to use the software and have to buy it again. Or if I buy a new computer I need to buy new manuals. I don't like this ebook digital stuff. I like good ole BOOKS. you know the paper kind, the ones you can turn the corners of pages over to mark your place. You can flip through them easy to find what you need. You can carry it to the car and get your greasy fingerprints all over it. Nothing beats the real thing, I definitely do not like the virtual stuff. Anyone know the best place to get a good price on the above mentioned manuals? Wade

I just received a 5 volume shop manual and a "1965-1972 Ford Car Masters Parts and Accessory Catalog" in the mail today. Both are in PDF format on CD's. I thought it would be great to look up what I need at the time and print off the page or two I need. I find it cumbersome to navigate, it keeps crashing my Adobe reader - which is the latest version and I'm using vista ultimate. So it isn't a problem with my computer it is the software. They have it encrypted which I didn't realize when I purchased it, they encryption only allows you to use it on the installed computer with the current operating system. If I upgrade to windows 7 I lose the ability to use the software and have to buy it again. Or if I buy a new computer I need to buy new manuals. I don't like this ebook digital stuff. I like good ole BOOKS. you know the paper kind, the ones you can turn the corners of pages over to mark your place. You can flip through them easy to find what you need. You can carry it to the car and get your greasy fingerprints all over it. Nothing beats the real thing, I definitely do not like the virtual stuff. Anyone know the best place to get a good price on the above mentioned manuals? Wade

they "were" in there, not currently, I need to pull out the console and radio and inspect any damage. That is where the little bugger was. They usually go somewhere for the night and hardly return to the same place. Except for an old truck I used to have which sat for a long time, they made home in the vent ducts. The smell was horrible! Even if I have to weld together a hermetically sealed storage garage to keep them out, I'm determined to make sure I don't have a problem. I use a lot of electric wire around the property. I wondered about hooking up the electric fence box to wide copper strips laid out on the floor surrounding the car.

Much to my dismay I went out, pulled off the cover, opened the door and found little pieces of insulation on the floor board! We have had this problem before with our cars. Mice love to get everywhere! We used to have 2 cats which were excellent hunters and never had a mouse problem. We lost those cats several years ago(we live in the country with wild bobcats, cougars and great horned owls, all of which are known to go after cats) and each year our mouse problem has been getting a bit worse. AND we have THREE cats! They are not doing their job for room and board here! None of them like to go outside and catch mice. Anyway, I found using a product called fresh cab(http://www.earth-kind.com/) under the house eliminated that problem but you have to renew it every three months because the smell fades. We have also had success with peppermint essential oil. But they require ongoing replenishing and I wondered how I could make it so the little buggers can't get in. I just built a garage, it is actually an RV shelter from the days when we had an RV. I put in a concrete floor and closed it in with 2x6 walls. I plan on insulating it, adding a dehumidifier and wall heat. Which while the stang stays nice cozy and warm, it will be more enticing to mice. The construction is pretty tight all around and no gaps anywhere but in case they try to chew through I wondered about using flashing in between each stud at the bottom and top. What about caulk? Are there any types that might be better for mouse deterrents? Do they make and type of sealant that is metallic in nature? I'm looking for ways to really seal it up and minimize any places of entry. the doors are two hinged 5'3" wide by 10' tall, making the opening 10'6" by 10' tall. I'm going to work on figuring how to seal around the doors also. The trick is the bottom. I need a 1/2" gap off the concrete to keep moisture from getting into the wood. I considering using a rubber strip found on the bottom of regular garage doors. For now I'll keep buying up the fresh cab and using peppermint essential oil, but that gets pricey after a while. Maybe we should just get another cat and have him sleep in the garage. Anyway, has anyone else gone through the process of mouse proofing a garage?

You might want to talk to "69cobraman", on page 2 of this thread he said: "Hey there Wade, I know the abouts of that east coast car you were looking at. The place that has it also sells parts and has a junkyard in back. Parts are higher than anywhere else that I have found. Have seen several of there cars for sale at shows and they might have driven there but???????. I myself don't really know if I would buy one there. Probably have to take completly apart and go through it. ...." He seems to know that lot pretty well. When I called about it they said it was a clone car, not a real Mach 1. I would ask some of the folks here for advice on that one. Is that a 351 2v? Also, remember that car has been there awhile and hasn't sold. If it was a really good deal it would be gone by now.

You mean the one in Virginia? Is that a clone Mach I?

Thanks, I think I'll get the CD version. I need it for reference only. The car I got has already been restored and I want to study some of the wiring diagrams as well as other parts of the car.

I would prefer an original owners manual, or at least a repro that is good enough so that you can't tell the difference. It doesn't matter about any other manuals, I just need to have some good references for working on the car. Does anyone have a CD parts catalog available for these? I've had those for my newer cars and found them to be very helpful in getting exploded views and identifying specific parts.

I'm looking to purchase 1969 Mustang Mach I manuals... owners manual, shop manuals, Haynes/Chiltons manuals, etc.. you can email me directly at wade@wadeandersonpt.com Wade