Wade

One example would be the glove box switch for the maplight. From the factory it had a plug in connector. When the switch is removed it pulls out from the front and you need to be able to unplug the single wire coming out the back of it. My wire was previously cut and I don't have the factory plug connection. I've been doing a bit of research since posting this and some of the comments I have found advise against soldering: " When you solder a connection, the solder migrates a short way down the wire inside the coating, from the connector, and then you have a very short length of stiff, unsupported wire attached to a long(er) piece of flexible wire. That's where it eventually breaks, in any high-vibration situation. Soldering is fine for hi-fi equipment. For airplanes and cars, I crimp." I did a bit more checking and it seems the airline industry will not solder but crimp with quality fasteners. The problem then becomes being able to do a "quality" job means using a $200 crimping tool. Anyway, still looking at fastener brands such as Pico, AMP, 3m, Sta-Kon.... and looking for all options ... and best place to purchase at a decent price . I will also need to use butt connectors in other areas where the harness was cut such as for the trunk light and the door courtesy lights. any other opinions on this topic is appreciated.

OK I went into a couple local auto part stores and found the typical cheap wire connectors. I thought well I will go over to Radio Shack to get some good quality connectors, I used to get stuff from there 25 years ago quite a bit and the geeks in there were always very knowledgeable. Well come to find out Radio Shack is filled with the same cheap junk and nothing like what they used to have in the way of electronic components and connectors. To top it off the spotty faced kid was clueless about everything except the cell phones. So I went to another shop that specializes in classic cars and he told me about pico connectors. I think it is important to get the wiring done right and that it holds up to vibrations. The cheap stuff being passed off at the other places will not hold up as well and I would be back in there fixing it down the road. I want it done right the first time even if it costs a little more up front, worst case scenario is a short leading to a fire in the car. After looking at the Pico connector I could tell immediately is was superior, but are the better ones for wiring. What other experiences have you guys had with wiring, what products do you use?

Hans, Thank you very much for that advice. Wade

Yes the clock feed wire can be found: http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=CF69+01 That is the section on the top of picture, the map light section of the harness cannot be found. I had looked for a replacement switch and they make them for mustangs up to 1968. The part number for ours is C9WB 14413B, that is not available anywhere. I have been able to find C3AZ 14413 glovebox/map light switches but as I said those are for 64 1/2 to 68 mustangs. So it looks like a little spray paint is in store to paint the chrome ring around the switch which is rusty.

Thanks guys, I just went out to the garage and checked everything out. My car did come with it as part of the visibility group option. I found that switch in the glove box area, it was in its place with the wire cut. It just did not have the map light. The car was previously in lots of pieces and some things just got lost along the way. I find it funny that the exact wire I'm missing is the only piece I have for the map light in my car. It's as if the map light I bought on Ebay was the one out of this car! I will need to solder the wire in place and am good to go! Thanks! Now I will need to investigate all those stray cut wires I've found under the dash. edit.. I just cleaned all the black paint off the glove box switch. The chrome ring is pretty rusted, anyone make a replacement switch?

Hi group, I just got the map light in the mail today that I bought off ebay. There is a wire missing that I need clarification on. Can anyone tell me what the wire is, what its for and where it goes? Here is my map light: Here is a photo from another posting: The wire on the bottom of the second photo is what's missing on mine. Looks like a button switch. Can someone enlighten me on that? Thanks!

Yep that's it Trinity's. I guess it is a matter of supply and demand when it comes to pricing. I'll keep looking. Chances are I'll never use it, but I like putting everything back together with all the options the car came with originally. edit... Well I just bought one on Ebay with a buy it now price of $75 + $9.50 shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-70-mustang-deluxe-map-lite-/260602903722 It said it is missing a wire: "maybe missing one wire the one with female red plug" not sure which wire is missing, it is hard to see in his picture. In looking at the pics Trinity posted, the middle pic, there is a wire with what looks like a white push switch... perhaps a glovebox door switch? Does that light switch on when the glovebox is opened?

Thanks for the link. If I knew how to work with fiberglass, I'd make some to sell. That is a simple little light housing, should cost $10. I just bought a small Sony am/fm radio brand new for about $15. I've seen off brand mp3 players for $15 to $20 range. Those things have a lot more technology in it then that little map light.

Just got a message from Perogie, they want $295!! Found one on Ebay with a beginning bid of $95 and says "reserve not met". I was hoping to find an aftermarket one for much less.

Anyone know where I can find a map light for my 69? It has the deluxe interior, apparently the lights were different. I looked in the online mustang parts catalogs and could not find it.

You may want to post in the technical forum for advice on an engine rebuild. There is a discussion right now on a 351w build: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7800 Looking forward to seeing photos as you make progress.

You may want to post in the technical forum for advice on an engine rebuild. There is a discussion right now on a 351w build: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=7800 Looking forward to seeing photos as you make progress.

Saw this on my local craigslist: http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/1618465507.html might be a good deal for someone.

Is it registered as a 3 wheel motorcycle or a car?

Yeah it is "their" list, what is on "your" list? Have to look at all types, full size, mid size, compact, trucks... Here are a few I put on a list: 1969 Mustang! :) 1964 ford thunderbolt 427 1970 Torino cobra 429 1957 Skyliner 2001 SVT F150 Lightning 2011 focus RS (already in Europe soon to be in the US) "The 2.5-litre 301 HP Ford Focus RS will target over 35mpg...Capable of 163mph and 0-60mph in under six seconds.." GT 40 would the shelby AC Cobra count?

http://www.windingroad.com/articles/lists/list-our-top-ten-favorite-fast-fords/ What do you think? I think I would've left a couple of the list, especially the Taurus. Although I have never driven the SHO, or any Taurus for that matter, maybe the SHO was superfast for its class(a 4 door sedan).

all I can say is WOW, you are a brave man for taking on such a project without any prior experience. But I can identify with that. I tend to be all or nothing. Years ago when I decided to do some overnight hiking trips, without any prior experience, I spent 3 weeks hiking in the back country of the Denali Wilderness. Another year I decided to go on a solo bicycle tour without any prior experience, so I flew to key west and rode a bicycle to Alaska. The way I figure it, I may only do this thing one time so why not go all out. That's what I see in your car, an all out, very extensive restoration process. I took Auto Body Repair as a 2 year course during my last 2 years in high school. I thought it was great fun, and some folks brought their own cars through the shop to be worked on. That would save a lot of money if you could have some work done at the school. I would be careful as to who I would let learn on my car though. You will want nothing but the best work done, you will have to live with it and will want it done right the first time. Are you going to put it back to factory concours or modified? I like factory correct cars but in your case I would probably make some mods, especially with the engine. What about a clone car like a Boss 302 clone car? Will you go with an AT or MT? Was that an Acapulco blue car? I can see some blue areas on it. What kind of rearend is that under it? looking forward to watching your project :)

This page has a 69 wiring diagram: http://midlife66.com/wiring/wiring.html

another image of "typical" drum brakes

There are a couple of sites I found. I don't have time to scan in pages from my Haynes manual this morning but these may help for now. http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/mufp_0704_brake_system/photo_16.html http://www.aa1car.com/library/drum_brakes.htm Hope this helps. I gotta run for the day, if you still need some help I'll flip through my Haynes manual this evening.

I thought I'd share a photo I took yesterday of the stang. It was late afternoon and the light was just filtering in through the windows. I like photos which suggest something but don't reveal.

Thank you very much for measuring, it solved the mystery for me. They do not make and of those plastic inserts to fit a 7/16 x 7/16 square hole. So the rear valance must have been replaced and the after market one has the holes made too big in it. I'm using the same set up you are but it will not flare it out enough and the license plate will just fall off. That is the largest size made, I tried everywhere, several auto parts stores and online. I guess I will have to resort to a bolt with a locking nut for now. Thanks.

OK, I got the rubber pieces I needed. Now when I try to put in the plastic square inserts into the square holes in the car, they don't fit! The holes measure 7/16" square, the plastic piece measure 3/8" at the narrow part that is supposed to fit snugly in the hole. The widest part is 7/16" where the piece flares out. I tried to hold it in place form the rear and put a screw in hoping that the screw would spread the fastener enough to keep it secure. Instead it just wants to spin around in the hole and even when I get it screwed in a bit, the piece comes out of the hole easily. I wonder if the rear panel has been replaced with an aftermarket and the holes were made too big, or if I just can't find the correct piece for it. I went to 3 auto parts stores and all of them had the same size. Anyone else have a problem like this? I know it seems like a trivial little problem to have but I wanted to avoid using a bolt with a nut on the back side.

I thought this was outrageous: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-MUSTANG-OWNERS-MANUAL-MACH-I-BOSS-SHELBY_W0QQitemZ190372276110QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Manuals_Literature?hash=item2c5312678e I just purchased an original owners manual in pretty near mint condition. It has the dealer stamp in it: Vandersyne Ford Inc. 4545 Ridge Road West Rochester, NY 14626 phone 352-1200 and then a stamp in red ink below it which says: JOHN DRAGONE I'm assuming that was the salesman Someone wrote with an ink pen del date 4/29/69 The manual shows July 1968 print date. If I could find someone who has a 1969 from that dealership, I would work out a trade or something. I know I would love to have the original owners manual for mine. by the way, this piece of history only cost me $20

There is a wire going down the right of the console which goes to the cigarette lighter and the wire on the left goes to the ashtray light. The part where it splits most likely does not go to the console, it goes up behind the dash I believe, but where?