Wade

Anyone know which plastic models have the best detail and are most accurate? I haven't put a model together since I was in high school. I used to really enjoy building models and now I've decided to try to build one to look like my 'stang. So far in my search I see mostly shaker hoods, mine has the regular non-functional scoop. I found this model which has the regular scoop: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=180440623574&Category=2581 It does not have the front and rear spoilers, so if I found another model with those I wonder how interchangeable the parts are?

thanks for that pic rockhouse. late last night I decided I wanted to take a closer look, so I walked out to the shop with my trusty can of bear spray ( have met bears in my driveway 2 times so far during the night). After getting inside and safely shutting the door behind me away from the wild things, I looked up around the wheel well and still nothing. So I actually climbed in the trunk, stuck my head up in that area with my flashlight to see as much as I could. I spotted a wire leading up to the front of the car and disappearing on the other side of the wheel well. I pulled it up and there it was! I found the missing plug in connector! I never would have looked that hard for it if you didn't show that pic and state how far back it was. And mine was pushed back way farther than the one you showed. Not sure what color it is yet since it was painted, I'll get out there with some acetone to see if I can clean off the paint overspray on it. Much appreciated to everyone who helped me solve this problem.

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm wanting to start making this car as factory correct as possible. I've decided to enter it for judging in the local concours show next month. I'm not planning on getting any awards but it will be fun and good to see what they have to say about it.

thanks Buening, this car did come with the trunk light as a factory option. But I'm sure the wiring had been butchered up during the years. I'll need to unwrap all the tape on the existing wires and see what's under there. It looks to me there was two female connectors coming out at a point and one was for the trunk light and one was for the fuel sending unit. Is it possible to get small sections of wiring harness? Also if anyone still has the factory wiring intact can you take a pic of how it looks. thanks!

So it looks like the wire going to the fuel tank needs to be split. Does anyone know where I can get a factory wire with a female plug? I really do not want to cut the wire for the trunk light and I want everything to be as factory original as I can get. I just posted that other diagram showing routing for the dual exhaust, not sure why they had so many variations for these cars. Where can I get the clips as referenced in the diagrams? Are those reproduced? Thanks!

Thanks guys for the info. I just found something which showed the dual exhaust had a slight variation on the wiring. I'll try to post that diagram later when I get some time. Maybe this can help someone else as well. That does not surprise me 69ravenconv, I'm finding all sorts of things about these cars where they just threw them together on the assembly line. Mine came with that option and I'd like to restore it to the factory specs. I appreciate all the info!

Well I just found a wiring diagram and it looks like the light is farther over toward the drivers side of the trunk lid? This diagram doesn't help much on the wiring since I have no idea where those are going to. I see it dropping down to the gas tank.

Well it looks like the aftermarket trunk lid is missing that square hole. I have photos showing what the lid looks like. So this means I gotta do some cuttin'. I might just use a hole saw and make a round hole, that would probably be the easiest thing. Then I need to figure out the wiring. I posted some pics of the old wire that was cut on one end and still has the male connector on the other end. So that is helpful to see where the factory one went. But I don't see where to connect to in the wiring harness, there is no female connector around. There is a wire that was spliced and is going across the the trunk floor. I posted a photo of that too. Last question, when is the light on? I assume that there is no switch so that means it comes on when the headlights are on?

I'm looking for pictures showing placement of the trunk light as well as the wiring. I have one to put in and have no idea where it was or how it was wired from the factory. Any help is much appreciated!

The links below my mustang photo, there are two just above the Mach 1 commercial. It seems to work great, all the exhaust goes straight outside, but the pro's recommend spending $400 on a proper system. I have to ask why, is my setup somehow dangerous? Will the venting melt from the heat and cause a fire? I'll let the car run for a long time and sit back there with a fire extinguisher and watch it. I would imagine 20 to 30 minutes would get it as hot as it will ever get.

Has anyone done this? I looked at the kits to do it and they were very expensive to buy the exhaust hose and tail pipe adapters. So..... I might be either very clever or a stupid idiot, but I thought why not vent it out like my dryer? The flexible dryer hose I got is non-combustible. Anyway, there is a short video of it in action. I put up a webpage for family in another country who wanted to see the car. So there is a silly video initially where the garage door opens by itself! I know no one can see how that trick was done. The videos of the exhaust venting is at the bottom. I used a digital camera which allows for 30 second videos. So that's why they are all 30 seconds or less. http://alliancept.us/mach1/

While looking up more facts about the Mach 1 I found this little tangent: http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G2-3404706997.html I did not know Yeager flew that day with a serious injury that he concealed: "Because of his injury, he was unable to close the plane's right side door, but he solved the problem by taking the handle of a broomstick with him and using it to close the door with his left hand." Maybe he didn't care because he was going to a place no other had, Mach 1. If he were found to have the injury they would not let him fly. Anyway, that was an interesting story.

Thanks for the suggestions, it is supposed to be a Concours d' Elegance show and I'm only entering in the "show only" part, not to be judged. I've had about a dozen or so mustangs and my first one was a 1976 mustang II(pinto really... feels a bit like going to AA when you admit to owning one of them :) . All the others have been newer GT's. My favorite style is the 1969 because of the 4 headlights and the side scoops. I also have good memories of a 1972 Mach 1 my buddy had when we used to cruise around in during my high school days. I've enjoyed cars to drive and never got into the debates about history or why Ford is better then GM products or vice versa.... or other makes for that matter. I didn't catch your meaning mach1rider... dearborn made car? The one I have was built in San Jose' and was purchased at a dealership in Washington State. I've always wanted to search the archives for the local newspaper and find an ad for that dealership in 1969 advertising the Mustang. Thanks for those links guys... both of those pages have some great "interesting" information. Should wow a few folks.

I just got an application for for a car show and they want: "In about 30 words, please provide an interesting history of your car which may be included in the printed program........ (goes on to say).... This can relate to the car's design or manufacture, aspects of the particular model..." So I do not know of any "interesting aspects", it is what it is, a Mach 1 sportsroof with a 390. I don't have anything else to add. Any thoughts that may be of interest?

I just got an application for for a car show and they want: "In about 30 words, please provide an interesting history of your car which may be included in the printed program........ (goes on to say).... This can relate to the car's design or manufacture, aspects of the particular model..." So I do not know of any "interesting aspects", it is what it is, a Mach 1 sportsroof with a 390. I don't have anything else to add. Any thoughts that may be of interest?

That is the only place I'm aware of making exact replicas not just for the US but other countries as well. Other sites I found will make plastic replicas but they use aluminum and are supposed to be accurate. What most folks do is get an old plate to register but I figured I can not only get an "old" plate, but get it to say what I want within certain restriction of what would be historically accurate, as I mentioned previously. I'm glad to hear someone else has had a good experience with licenseplates.tv

That is the only place I'm aware of making exact replicas not just for the US but other countries as well. Other sites I found will make plastic replicas but they use aluminum and are supposed to be accurate. What most folks do is get an old plate to register but I figured I can not only get an "old" plate, but get it to say what I want within certain restriction of what would be historically accurate, as I mentioned previously. I'm glad to hear someone else has had a good experience with licenseplates.tv

If anyone is looking to sell one let me know. You can email me directly at wade@wadeandersonpt.com thanks

If anyone is looking to sell one let me know. You can email me directly at wade@wadeandersonpt.com thanks

In my state we are allowed to register old plates that are no longer being used such as those found in junk yards and off old cars. I plan on having one made which would be an exact replica of that era of plate. The plate has to be correct and all of those in that era had 3 letters then 3 numbers. Such as ABC 123. The plates also had an expiration month on the bottom left corner of the plate which corresponded to the first letter on the plate. So a plate beginning with A would have jan on the bottom left corner. They skipped "I" and the lettering went from A to M, a plate beginning with M would have dec on the bottom left corner. Anyway, in order for it to pass the folks at DMV it has to match up correctly. So I can do M-- 390. I never thought of MOC. So it would seem my only real choices would be MAK, MCH or MOC. I initially thought I would get MCH but I think MAK might be a better alternative.

In my state we are allowed to register old plates that are no longer being used such as those found in junk yards and off old cars. I plan on having one made which would be an exact replica of that era of plate. The plate has to be correct and all of those in that era had 3 letters then 3 numbers. Such as ABC 123. The plates also had an expiration month on the bottom left corner of the plate which corresponded to the first letter on the plate. So a plate beginning with A would have jan on the bottom left corner. They skipped "I" and the lettering went from A to M, a plate beginning with M would have dec on the bottom left corner. Anyway, in order for it to pass the folks at DMV it has to match up correctly. So I can do M-- 390. I never thought of MOC. So it would seem my only real choices would be MAK, MCH or MOC. I initially thought I would get MCH but I think MAK might be a better alternative.

Hi group, if you had 3 letters and 3 numbers for you mustang license plate, what would you use? I had considered MCH 390 or MAK 390 I have a 390 s code mustang mach 1 What do you think?

Hi group, if you had 3 letters and 3 numbers for you mustang license plate, what would you use? I had considered MCH 390 or MAK 390 I have a 390 s code mustang mach 1 What do you think?

Thanks for the info Hans, Do you like the Pico connectors? I just made a couple of phone calls and so far no luck in sourcing a replacement "L" connector. I wonder if you can find a replacement extension wire somewhere. Maybe someone else on this list will know of a place that has used parts. I would also wonder if that wire is specific only for Mustang or can it be found on other cars? There are quite a few items that interchange between a Mustang and a Cougar. Can you tell me the part number for that extension wire, I'll see if it's available somewhere. Another option would be to get an "L" connector off a junk wiring harness and then use a butt splice connector. That's also interesting what you are doing with your tach. Looks like the tach will be independent from the original circuit it was on. Where did you get the replacement connectors? Looks like they are a perfect match for the factory connections. Oh and back to the bullet connector you described for your clock, do you think that is somehow repairable? You can get a replacement clock harness here: http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=CF69+01 A bit expensive when you need just one piece of it.

Yes "affordable" is key to me as well. I have found some of those connectors used in the aircraft industry are beyond belief! So I'm looking for a good balance I suppose. The reason I have a bit of a concern is because my brother had an underdash fire happen while he was driving one time. That was due to some faulty electrical wiring. So my reason for questioning a seemingly trivial subject such as wire connections is because I sometimes have visions of driving down the road and have flames shooting down at my feet! :scared: