nymustang1969

I used a 1" phenolic spacer with a rear pcv port on it from Tran-dapt. Serves a duel purpose,  insulates the carb from heat, and a stock looking pcv set-up. 

Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch. It is common to have a burnt up connector on the plug on cars with a/c due to the higher current load. Back in the day when you bought a new Motorcraft / Ford ignition switch it came with a new pigtail to make a proper repair.

Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch. It is common to have a burnt up connector on the plug on cars with a/c due to the higher current load. Back in the day when you bought a new Motorcraft / Ford ignition switch it came with a new pigtail to make a proper repair.

I took some 1/4" vacuum tubing and slit it down the side. Then slipped it over the parking brake cable. This way no rattle or rub marks on the nice painted floor pan.

I took some 1/4" vacuum tubing and slit it down the side. Then slipped it over the parking brake cable. This way no rattle or rub marks on the nice painted floor pan.

You're more than welcome.  It is often that another set of eyes/mindset can troubleshoot things better than the one experiencing the problem. 
The main reason why I am on this and other forums, as well as my wiring refurbishment business, is that I really enjoy trouble-shooting from a distance.  Having a detached perspective (e.g. a dirty mind laying in the gutter) and helping people out gives me great satisfaction out of life.  That, and a good brand of whiskey...

I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid.  What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green.  First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses.  Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation.  This line burned half-way through the harness.
Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem!  After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried.  This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness.  What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...)
Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start.  #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid).  Hmmm...a clue here!  Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short.  But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil.  But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points.  Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs.  The majority of the time, the points act as a ground.  Aha!  Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. 
So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds.  This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system.  And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time.
I bet you didn't know this, eh?

We did  Preventive Maintenance service on the cars every 4000 miles. Usually put on a set of pads because it would not make it to the next one without being metal to metal.

You are probably over thinking this. Unless you are going to track your car the Bendix or Raybestos rotors will be fine. Everything is made in China. I was a mechanic for the NYPD for 32 years. That's all we used. And believe me no one is harder on a car than a cop, especially when it is not their personnel car.

Bendix and Raybestos still make the oem rotors. Rock Auto or Summit for best price. Couple that with a set of Porterfield pads and shoes for an excellent brake setup.

Bendix and Raybestos still make the oem rotors. Rock Auto or Summit for best price. Couple that with a set of Porterfield pads and shoes for an excellent brake setup.

I try to use the least aggressive method first. I would try a clay bar. Amazing how it can take trash out of paint.

I put a Bosch style relay under the dash in my 69' for the horn. Midlife is correct on the color codes for the wiring. I tapped into the yellow wire for the input power to the relay. I then cut the blue/yellow wire under the dash after it comes down from the turn signal switch. The blue/yellow wire on the switch end is used to trigger the relay, the other end is to the output of the relay to feed the horns. I have a rimblow switch, and this works very well because it takes the load of the horns off the switch. The relay now handles the heavy current.

You can lose weight...
You can also slide the seat all the way back before exiting (if not already) and it will be there when you enter the car.  You can also extend the rails for further movement backwards.

If you are looking for a male cap that fits our Motorcraft distributors Standard Motor Products AL482 will work. It was ment for a Prestolite distributor but fits ours also if you file a small slot that fits the index tab on the distributor. It is marked on the cap. Have been using this for years with the Ford Racing spark plug wires.

302 2V w/ PS and Dealer installed AC under dash unit.
 

 
I think the pulley mounts to the large bracket where the bolt is.  Best pictures I can find on other cars have a different bracket and I think it's because my car was an aftermarket dealer installed AC systemy.
 
My older photo bucket pics are corrupted so I can't access them to see how this was before I pulled them off.