nymustang1969

The idle circuit on the Edelbrock carbs tend to get gummed up. Unscrew the two idle mixture screws and spray in some carb cleaner. Blow out with some compressed air if you can. Then put idle mixture screws back in, adjusting to 2-2 1/2 turns out. Good chance this will solve your problem.

I used a 1" phenolic spacer with a rear pcv port on it from Tran-dapt. Serves a duel purpose, insulates the carb from heat, and a stock looking pcv set-up.

The Granada did not come out till 1975, so the part number would start out with a D5.

From the part number those are 1970 spindles. They use a different larger size bearing. You can either exchange the rotors for 1970 ones, or change the bearings and races to the 1970 design. The actual rotor is the same.

Glad my response was able to help you out. Also while I was behind the dash I put a relay on the a/c blower motor circuit. Between the blower motor and the clutch on the compressor that circuit can draw 25-30 amps. Putting that circuit on a relay will reduce the higher current load on the ignition switch.

Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch. It is common to have a burnt up connector on the plug on cars with a/c due to the higher current load. Back in the day when you bought a new Motorcraft / Ford ignition switch it came with a new pigtail to make a proper repair.

The blend door is operated by the cable on the control panel, not vacuum.

I took some 1/4" vacuum tubing and slit it down the side. Then slipped it over the parking brake cable. This way no rattle or rub marks on the nice painted floor pan.

There should be a spring in the engine compartment going for the z-bar to the firewall. Also under the dash is the over center spring which also assists in returning the pedal up.

Are you sure you don't mean 3m strip caulk. The part # for that is 08578.

I installed a Hurst super shifter years ago in a friends car. The super shifter uses straight rods going from the shifter to the transmission levers. Thus the shifter does not come up through the stock hole. Floor had to be cut. If you want to use the stock hole you need the completion plus shifter.

Check out Lars Corporation. They make a brand new pump that fits into your original housing. I put one in about 2 years ago. Works great and quite as a mouse. Very impressed with it.

Check the cylinder heads to make sure the header sits flush. When I installed mine there was a small bump on the casting that I had to grind down. My engine was on a stand at the time and was easy to see the problem. Might not be as easy to see with the engine installed.

We did Preventive Maintenance service on the cars every 4000 miles. Usually put on a set of pads because it would not make it to the next one without being metal to metal.

You are probably over thinking this. Unless you are going to track your car the Bendix or Raybestos rotors will be fine. Everything is made in China. I was a mechanic for the NYPD for 32 years. That's all we used. And believe me no one is harder on a car than a cop, especially when it is not their personnel car.

Bendix and Raybestos still make the oem rotors. Rock Auto or Summit for best price. Couple that with a set of Porterfield pads and shoes for an excellent brake setup.

I try to use the least aggressive method first. I would try a clay bar. Amazing how it can take trash out of paint.

Replaced my axle bearings last year. Don't member the part number, but I ordered them from Summit Racing. They were Timken bearings, stamped made in Japan. Quality looked very good. Put about 4000 miles on them. No problems.

As a side note I used the JBA exhaust system also, as I wanted to do the complete install at home. The fit and finish of the system was very good, easy install. Only problem was, it was loud. Sounded great, but on the highway, not fun after a while. After one season I swapped out the mufflers for a set of Dynomax super turbo . Much better now.

I am also running the JBA 1653s headers. Mine seem to have about a 1/4" clearance at that point from the header to shock tower. Is it possible that your shock towers are sagging in at that point. Are you running an export brace to stiffen it up? I am also using the JBA H pipe. It fit well, although tight around the lower clutch adjustment rod. I also had to make a p/s drop bracket to lower the slave cylinder about 3/4" JBA Said you should not have to, but with the stock bracket it would not fit. On the plus side I have been running the headers for about 10 years, still look like new and no leaks.

I put a Bosch style relay under the dash in my 69' for the horn. Midlife is correct on the color codes for the wiring. I tapped into the yellow wire for the input power to the relay. I then cut the blue/yellow wire under the dash after it comes down from the turn signal switch. The blue/yellow wire on the switch end is used to trigger the relay, the other end is to the output of the relay to feed the horns. I have a rimblow switch, and this works very well because it takes the load of the horns off the switch. The relay now handles the heavy current.

I'm also using the Infinity Kappa speakers. Very good sound. You have to be careful on the depth of the speakers, if too deep will interfere with the widow regulator in the down position.

Over the winter one of my projects was to rebuild brake set-up. Rebuilt calipers, replaced rotors and used Porterfield brake pads and rear shoes. Very happy with the braking performance with the upgraded pads, much better than the generic Raybestos pads I used for years.

If you are looking for a male cap that fits our Motorcraft distributors Standard Motor Products AL482 will work. It was ment for a Prestolite distributor but fits ours also if you file a small slot that fits the index tab on the distributor. It is marked on the cap. Have been using this for years with the Ford Racing spark plug wires.

I'm running the Ford DuraSpark setup. Very reliable and any parts you might need are available at any parts store.