Shaun

No changes. If you want the Schrader, you get the shock with the black end, if not then you get a shock without it. All the internal components are the same. On 69-70 cars running the 3-Link you get the black ended shocks with the Schrader hole plugged unless you want the valve. Having the Schrader valve allows you to adjust the Nitrogen pressure beneath the dividing piston. Problem is it bleeds off just like a Schrader valve on a bike tire so you need a tank of Nitrogen and a gauge to maintain it. Usually only race car guys are interested in messing with it.

Mike, Looking good! DO NOT weld in the 3rd link frame. You need to remove it to service the bearing... Here is a shot of the trunk aperture required to run a 69-70 car really low: Its behind the rear seats and allows room for the 3rd Link to achieve full travel under full compression. ONLY 69-70 cars require this modification. Those cars wheel arch openings are 1-3/4" higher than 65-68 cars so they need to be run lower to look correct and not like an SUV.

Yes, I just don't have as much time as I'd like to post/read all the different forums...

Shaun who?

Yep and I charged your card... :punk:

Not only does the parking brake work very well, the way it works eliminates pad knock back in the stock rear end when cornering hard. The next step up in stopping power is to run our full floating 9" system with 4 piston fixed calipers:

The Dynalite system is a tad small for serious use on the front of a heavy car like our Mustangs. Small calipers, tiny pads and thin, offshore cast rotors. I would only use it on a hot rod that goes to Dairy Queen and back. Brakes are not optional, there is no such thing as overkill and you get what you pay for. Nobody ever gets out of our cars and tells us, "man, those brakes are WAY too good"!

Looking great Brian, I love the photography! No need for such a wide/large rotor on the rear as the rear doesn't see as much heat as the front. Making a rotor larger than it needs to be adds weight. Our front 2 pc 13" x 1.25" rotor cools better and is 3lbs lighter than the stock SN95 Cobra rotor.

You can use this kit on DRUM spindles and still use your TTII wheels and NO spacers - http://www.streetortrack.com/13-Rotor-bracket-kit-for-DRUM-spindles-pr-23823.html Use this one for the same goal on DISK spindles - http://www.streetortrack.com/13-Rotor-bracket-kit-for-DISK-spindles-pr-24141.html The 13x1.1" rotors in these kits feature a higher hat offset than the OE Cobra rotor and allow the caliper to sit further inboard. This makes the wheel spokes of TTII wheels clear the caliper face without the need for spacers. Use these kits with OE drum hubs and track width is not changed.

This kit fits the Granada (&/or 68-73 Mustang DISK) spindles so you can get the 13" Cobra brakes but don't have to change to Mustang drum spindles: http://www.streetortrack.com/13-Cobra-front-bracket-kit-for-68-73-DISK-or-75-80-GRANADA-spindles-pr-24431.html Or this one for drum spindles: http://www.streetortrack.com/13-Cobra-front-bracket-kit-for-65-73-DRUM-spindles-pr-23991.html

I helped a buddy put one in his 66. It STILL has a dead spot at straight ahead. After going through all that, I'm sticking with my 16:1 power box with manual steering. The Borgeson looks good. It is a different box so could solve the dead spot or could be just like the ABS box. I don't know anybody that has installed it and given any feedback yet.

Street or Track UCA, LCA, Adjustable Strut Rods with Opentracker roller perches. Street or Track 13" brakes, Bilstein Sport valved shocks, 1-1/8" sway bar and '620' springs.

The CPP pin looks pretty small. The Chrysler style 772 screw in lower BJ I'm using uses a 3/8 - 1/2" or so spacer under the castle nut but nothing quite like the distance I'm seeing on the CPP BJ.

John, Is that the same BJ as the small Chrylser? Moog # K772?

We can build 13" kits for drum, disc, small or big bearing spindles. None of them require wheel spacers and none of them change track width.