very fat and very dumb

I told her what you said, you validated everything I've been telling her. I figure since I get 10 of the 12 garage stalls she can have that room and her sewing room, at least when I'm not using it for more important stuff. BTW, I have an aluminum Buddy Bar 351W intake manifold in her sewing room along with my shaker. HAHA.

Nice work, that's what I'm talking about. Painting in the kitchen is a fantastic example of the "spirit" of this post. :tongue_smilie:

A picture speaks a thousand words. Would this be a good sticky? Describe your "moments" that you might wish you could do over. Perhaps you subscribe to the theory it's always better to ask for forgiveness rather than permission.

I'd go but it would have to be on the west coast. Since anything east of Idaho is the east coast I think the chances are slim of it happening for me. I do like the idea though.

The plan is for a rotisserie restoration but things like the front turn signals will only be cleaned. I am not going to "fix" anything that doesn't need to be. I intend to sand blast it but areas such as the floor pan and cowl will be masked off and left untouched. Sorry to say that my welding skills are less than expert so I am going to hire out the metal work to a pro, it has to be 100% spot on perfect. If I can get it stripped down in the next 3-4 weeks I could get it out of paint in March and put back together before my 30th High School Reunion in 2014, no self imposed deadlines prior to that. Haste makes waste. Not sure about the paint on the floor pans, it was repainted at least once, it was root beer brown when I bought it, I had it painted Russo Red (1982 Ferrari Red). I suspect they were painted at the factory, when I tear it apart more I'll see if the firewall is painted and what not. Glad you guys appreciate the photos, I've shown them to some folks here at work, they think I'm crazy to be excited about what appears to them as crappy floor pans.

I bought the car in my Sophomore year (1982) of High School, the car has sat in the gargage since 1989. Every 3-5 years I start it up run it throught the gears then let it sit till next time. It was tough for me but I started tear down yesterday, she is going back to the way she rolled off the assembly line. Under the cowl is gorgeous rust free silver jade paint. I found a couple nice surprises, for you concourse guys the turn signals are the original zinc chromate, the bumper speaks for itself. It was replaced in 1984 plus or minus. I am also very pleased with the floor pan.

I'm up in Snohomish, I am pulling the engine out of my Mach today (351W). It runs great and depending on the date codes I will be selling it. I've had the engine since 1982 or 83 and it has about 50K on it.

Since I live in a wet version of hell I have not been able to drive the Mustang for 2 months. We had a rare dry day yesterday and took the car for a drive. I had the same issue, while the engine was running I moved the key slightly to the left and the gauges started working. Perhaps a failing ignition switch makes odd things happen just like a failing headlight switch does. I thought I would throw this out there. I'd be curious to know if anyone has success from this.

I cut a section of frame rail out of my donor car, cut it up nicely and welded it in. I sealed the seams with body sealer as I did not weld it all the way around. I left the bottom open for drainage in case any water does get in there. It looks good, what do you guys think about my fix?

The next time it happens check your fan motor and turn signals to see if they're working. I had the same problem as did many others, there's an old post somewhere. Word is the firewall connection needs some attention, cleaning and dielectric grease.

I'm actually referring to the bushings, similar to the rubber pieces that go on the and bottom of the rear shocks. I've ordered neoprene bushings, maybe that will solve the problem. The bushings I had came in a kit, probably just another made in china piece of crap.

Does anyone have a good fix for this? I beleive it was like this when I put it together, I though it would be OK...NOT. Alignment guys say it needs to be fixed. I was thinking of using my wire feed to fill the hole then redrill it. Fun stuff. It would have been much easier when it was on the rotisserie. Thanks.

69 Convertible with less that 2000 mile on it. Does anyone know why this would be happening? Thanks guys.

Please let us all know how it goes. Since we all have issues with the speaker area I doubt it would work but you never know.

Thanks alot Armond, now I need to get one.

If it happens again call a locksmith, I beleive they can make a key in about 20 minutes. It will cost you 150.00 or so for a house visit but it might be worth it.

I am posting this link on this forum just so everyone sees it. You know what to search for, this has great information about our cars and takes most of the mystery out of the options for our cars. http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html Let me know what you think.

They're made by Specialty Wheel in Oregon. Not sure how the price compares. http://www.specialtywheel.com/

None of them work, I've searched and read the old posts. When I tested for continuity between the negative post on the battery to the firewall ground wire it was good. I then checked and everything worked fine. I'll have to wait for it to happen again before I can troubleshoot it. My question is, what is the common ground between the turn signals, blower motor and gauges? I will tell you I have the blower motor and firewall ground on the same bolt in the firewall. Maybe I just answered my own question. What do you guys think?

Add some beer and it's a freaking blast too. Sandblast the parts right before putting them in the solution, figure out how much WD40 you'll need then triple it. Make sure your parts fit in the container and the solution level will cover the parts. I used Palmetto, I was very happy with him.

If you choose to part with it let me know. I'm starting a project that it would be great for. Thanks.

It can be reused. Be sure you read the instructions and store it in the proper container, plastic or stainless I beleive. I'd be happy to post a photo of the floor in my shop if you'd like to see why.

I took some photos this weekend, what's you email?

First you need to contact the seller as RPM states. I suspect he's going to give you a line of BS. Next you need to find out if the car is stolen. You will probably have to take it to a small town police dept. Try to talk to a cop and not some bureaucrat pencil pusher. If you want to PM me your VIN I can do a cursory check. If you can determine the car is not stolen, I have a 500.00 fix that is legal and solid to rectify the situation. You can PM me and I will explain it to you over the phone, too much typing for me.

Are these the Buddy Bar intakes that were part of the Performace Parts Catalog? I think these were dealer added parts or parts you could order and install yourself. When we were at Barrett Jackson a couple years ago I picked up an aluminum intake, I think it says FORD on it, made by Buddy Bar and has a 351W casting number in it. I think I paid 350.00 for that and a 69 GT gas cap in really good condition. I think the intakes themselves can go for 500.00, it was a good day for the fat boy.