MikeStang

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

Barnett I never said a R&P would get me out of the way of anything faster LOL, my problem is with the overly strong Stock style Power steering that provides absolutely NO road feedback...Its got the working strength of Ronnie Coleman using 5 pound dumbs and doing curls...WAY TO STRONG, and you gotta have it all together if you need to make a fast wheel jerk because you can WAY OVERCOMPENSATE with the stock power steering.
 
I am doing the Mustang 2 conversion so I will have some feedback in a few months hopefully LOL.
But all in all the stock stuff with all the upgrades is Great and works perfectly fine, but for less money you can get same performance with the M2 suspension but you get the added advantages of adjustable ride height, more selection of springs to adjust ride quality and handling, shock tower delete which I know we all would love to have so we could have more room under the hood.
Its a Win Win with the M2 suspension IMHO

I have Reverse Eye Springs on mine right now.
I have now broken 3 sets of Caltrac Front plates so I called them yesterday and had them ship me a set of regular front plates and I also ordered a set of 4.5 leaf Mid Eye springs to get the car back up a bit and to be able to use the normal Caltrac front plates.
Ideally it will get me up 1" or so in the back which should help with my rear axle hitting the bump stops on big bumps and make the car have a slight Rake.
Ill post some pics and measurements once I get it all installed.

LOL.. Thanks RPM
 
My front fenders are very lightly rolled, and I mean Very lightly but I have enough room even if they were not rolled, it clears Just enough that it never hits no matter what I do to it.

A local friend has a 1970 Vert that was involved in a pretty bad accident recently...Car was broad sided on the driver side and he is going to be getting rid of her since he doesn't have the ability to fix the damage.
Car was a pretty clean little driver, so if anyone is interested in picking it up let me know and I will pass his contact information on to you... I know the 70 Verts were pretty low so far as production numbers go, just figured one of our master builders here could fix her up.
 
He is located in Patterson Louisiana BTW

I run a 185 In my 408 with Champion 4 row radiator and a set of the countour fans mentioned above...They fit the radiator perfectly btw.
My temps get to about 190 in 100 degree weather with the AC on in traffic, but never seen them go more than that.

A local friend has a 1970 Vert that was involved in a pretty bad accident recently...Car was broad sided on the driver side and he is going to be getting rid of her since he doesn't have the ability to fix the damage.
Car was a pretty clean little driver, so if anyone is interested in picking it up let me know and I will pass his contact information on to you... I know the 70 Verts were pretty low so far as production numbers go, just figured one of our master builders here could fix her up.
 
He is located in Patterson Louisiana BTW

A local friend has a 1970 Vert that was involved in a pretty bad accident recently...Car was broad sided on the driver side and he is going to be getting rid of her since he doesn't have the ability to fix the damage.
Car was a pretty clean little driver, so if anyone is interested in picking it up let me know and I will pass his contact information on to you... I know the 70 Verts were pretty low so far as production numbers go, just figured one of our master builders here could fix her up.
 
He is located in Patterson Louisiana BTW

A local friend has a 1970 Vert that was involved in a pretty bad accident recently...Car was broad sided on the driver side and he is going to be getting rid of her since he doesn't have the ability to fix the damage.
Car was a pretty clean little driver, so if anyone is interested in picking it up let me know and I will pass his contact information on to you... I know the 70 Verts were pretty low so far as production numbers go, just figured one of our master builders here could fix her up.
 
He is located in Patterson Louisiana BTW

I did my Box myself and it came out great.
I got my rebuild kit from stangersite.
He actually said if the shaft is worn that you just have to find a good used part to replace it and that is what he does with all of his rebuild.. Mine was in good shape so I was good to go

I currently have lizard skin sprayed inside my car, and under the bottom, as well as dynamat on the entire floor, roof, inside doors, fully covering the wheel wells, and the entire inside of the trunk, along with the trunk lid under side...it helps but my car is still louder than I want it to be.
Oh I also have that thick asphalt matt on top of the dynamat as well...I am currently considering ordering some second skin luxuary liner which is a Mass Loaded Vinyl which is supposed to do the trick HaHa

I am in Lake Charles Louisiana Right now Pruett, but will be home in Denham Springs Louisiana in a few short days...Why what's up?

Okay I am not a huge fan of doing this but my buddy wants to bond the headlight buckets to the front fenders and the tail caps to the rear quarters on his 68 FB we are building for his wife.. The car is a restomod and he likes the look of the fenders with no gap between them as well as the smooth look of the back end with the Valance welded to the quarters and the tail caps bonded to the quarters.
Now I don't know of any way to weld the pot metal parts to the sheet metal, So I am assuming that most of these high end cars use panel bond in these area's and then just cinch the caps and buckets down with the fasteners and then use some kind of filler to fill the seams.
 
My concern is that I have seen a few cars done like this and the joints always crack through the paint eventually.
 
Is there a metal type filler that can be used to take care of this ?
 
He is dead set on doing this so I need the best suggestions from all you guys on how to best accomplish this shit and not have the seams crack through the paint in a few years.... So lets hear them...

Okay I am not a huge fan of doing this but my buddy wants to bond the headlight buckets to the front fenders and the tail caps to the rear quarters on his 68 FB we are building for his wife.. The car is a restomod and he likes the look of the fenders with no gap between them as well as the smooth look of the back end with the Valance welded to the quarters and the tail caps bonded to the quarters.
Now I don't know of any way to weld the pot metal parts to the sheet metal, So I am assuming that most of these high end cars use panel bond in these area's and then just cinch the caps and buckets down with the fasteners and then use some kind of filler to fill the seams.
 
My concern is that I have seen a few cars done like this and the joints always crack through the paint eventually.
 
Is there a metal type filler that can be used to take care of this ?
 
He is dead set on doing this so I need the best suggestions from all you guys on how to best accomplish this shit and not have the seams crack through the paint in a few years.... So lets hear them...