MikeStang

I will be getting my car back from the Paint shop in th next week or so and will be filming the following videos and posting to You Tube with links in our How to section....So keep your eyes peeled.
Oh will be having a friend who owned a mustang restoration shop for over 15 years assisting me in the processes, so you will be seeing top notch work, and will get some of the secrets to doing it fast and Right.
 
1. Headliner Install
2. Front and Rear Glass install.
3. Bolt in glass install and Adjustment
4. Engine and 4R70W install with Cross member from board member and Computer control from Bauman's.
5. Install of American Auto Wire Complete harness "This may be in several segments"
5. Install of Classic Auto Air complete unit, along with install of Dash pad, guages, etc....
 
6. Will attempt to film as much as i can to help as many as possible.
 
Anyone have a GOOD camera they want to loan me for a month or so :-)
Please feel free to send it over, I will gladly pay shipping hehe
 
Also I do not have any editing capabilities. Would anyone be interested in taking hours and hours of filming and editing it ...sure there will be alot of cursing, throwing of tools and just good old car building fun to be taken out ....Think this would be a great oppertunity to provide some Very useful info to our members.
 
So Stay Tuned ......
 
Mike

Haha That's cool...So you can see from those pics what kind of Rolling stock we were traveling along with on that run.
My GF made me keep it under 100 and I had my son with me so I wasn't really wanting to get to crazy buy my buddy who was with me in his 69 with pretty much same motor and a 5 speed did play with some of the high dollar cars on the way.
We found out that our old school junk could hang with the stock Ferraris and Lambos pretty easily from 30 mph up to about 130 or so then they would start putting distance on him HaHa..
I got a few pics with my car next to the ford GT which I thought was cool... Lot of cool guys in the Race Armada crew and most of them are totally cool with you ogling their cars. My son got to sit in several of his top dream cars LOL.
Wish I could have gotten to do this kind of stuff when I was a kid :)
Im kicking ass at this Dad thing HAHA

I will be getting my car back from the Paint shop in th next week or so and will be filming the following videos and posting to You Tube with links in our How to section....So keep your eyes peeled.
Oh will be having a friend who owned a mustang restoration shop for over 15 years assisting me in the processes, so you will be seeing top notch work, and will get some of the secrets to doing it fast and Right.
 
1. Headliner Install
2. Front and Rear Glass install.
3. Bolt in glass install and Adjustment
4. Engine and 4R70W install with Cross member from board member and Computer control from Bauman's.
5. Install of American Auto Wire Complete harness "This may be in several segments"
5. Install of Classic Auto Air complete unit, along with install of Dash pad, guages, etc....
 
6. Will attempt to film as much as i can to help as many as possible.
 
Anyone have a GOOD camera they want to loan me for a month or so :-)
Please feel free to send it over, I will gladly pay shipping hehe
 
Also I do not have any editing capabilities. Would anyone be interested in taking hours and hours of filming and editing it ...sure there will be alot of cursing, throwing of tools and just good old car building fun to be taken out ....Think this would be a great oppertunity to provide some Very useful info to our members.
 
So Stay Tuned ......
 
Mike

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

LOL I built it with foot to the floor at the top of my list HaHA

Ill list out my build below.
My shit gets beat on every time my ass hits the seat, and like you I wanted as much HP as I could get and still be street friendly in terms of Idle because I run an automatic trans with a tight converter along with AC... My specifications were Pump gas friendly, Decent idle in drive with AC on, Max Hp I could get with off the shelf parts and I wanted a large smooth HP/torque curve...... We get 87, 91, 93 octane here in Louisiana and its mostly all been cut with 10% or more ethanol as stated at the pump.... My car runs fine on 91 &93 altho I usually stick to 93.
 
Anyhow here is how I am set up.
 
Trans is a built 4R70W with 2800 stall controlled by a Bauman controller, rear end is a 9" with 3.73 Trac Loc and Caltracs, I have Factory Auto Air for Heating and Cooling and don't us a kick up solenoid to control Idle with the ac on, Also have Power steering as well. 
Motor is as follows.
408 Cubes, Block is from a 95 Ford Lightning so it was a factory roller block.
Short Block Consists of Eagle Forged Crank, I-Beam Forged Rods, Ross Pistons, and a Main Girdle with ARP Studs.
Heads are Box Stock AFR 205's (these are the older Nitrous Ported version which are a CNC version if I recall, they are now called outlaw heads I think. I have flow sheets from the heads if you wanna see Real flow numbers off a Super Flow bench.
The springs were changed to match the Comp Hyd Roller Cam that we had Comp Grind as well. Valves are stock untouched from AFR.
The Camshaft is a Comp Custom Hyd Roller grind and the specs are 228/236@50 with 563/571 Lift and ground on a 113 LSA.
I run the Stock Style Hyd Roller lifters for Ford Motorsports along with the stock style retainer and dog bones.. both of which were bought new so I did not use the old spider and dog bones from the motor when I got it.
The intake is an Edelbrock Vic Jr unported but it matched the AFR heads to a T somehow...Carb is an 850 Holley Dbl pumper W/Manual secondaries.
Headers are FRP stepped from 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" into a 3" collector if I recall.
 
We dynode the motor with an HP 950 Carb and 1-7/8 or 2" primary headers on 93 octane pump gas and it responded to the tune of 550.9hp on motor and 659hp on a 125 shot of gas....Torque was over 500lbft at like 4000 RPM's I think? I would have to pull dyno sheets to verify that tho. 
 
All and all I could not ask for a better street friendly pavement pounder that I would drive anywhere.
I have driven the car to and from Cruising the Coast 3 years running, did some of the Hot Rod power tour and recently ran a poker run from Houston to Lake Charles LA with some high end exotics and this motor has been problem free except for the time I had converter issues and burnt the thrust bearing out, but that was MY fault.
Oh I get an average of 20 mpg with the 850 carb and OD transmission Btw LOL.
I have videos of the Idle in park and in drive if you wanna see them... it has become a little to mellow for me and I am wanting to possibly do a cam swap to something more aggressive sounding LOL...
It idles right at 650 RPM's in gear with the AC on and has a nice smooth lope to it hehe

Haha That's cool...So you can see from those pics what kind of Rolling stock we were traveling along with on that run.
My GF made me keep it under 100 and I had my son with me so I wasn't really wanting to get to crazy buy my buddy who was with me in his 69 with pretty much same motor and a 5 speed did play with some of the high dollar cars on the way.
We found out that our old school junk could hang with the stock Ferraris and Lambos pretty easily from 30 mph up to about 130 or so then they would start putting distance on him HaHa..
I got a few pics with my car next to the ford GT which I thought was cool... Lot of cool guys in the Race Armada crew and most of them are totally cool with you ogling their cars. My son got to sit in several of his top dream cars LOL.
Wish I could have gotten to do this kind of stuff when I was a kid :)
Im kicking ass at this Dad thing HAHA

Ill list out my build below.
My shit gets beat on every time my ass hits the seat, and like you I wanted as much HP as I could get and still be street friendly in terms of Idle because I run an automatic trans with a tight converter along with AC... My specifications were Pump gas friendly, Decent idle in drive with AC on, Max Hp I could get with off the shelf parts and I wanted a large smooth HP/torque curve...... We get 87, 91, 93 octane here in Louisiana and its mostly all been cut with 10% or more ethanol as stated at the pump.... My car runs fine on 91 &93 altho I usually stick to 93.
 
Anyhow here is how I am set up.
 
Trans is a built 4R70W with 2800 stall controlled by a Bauman controller, rear end is a 9" with 3.73 Trac Loc and Caltracs, I have Factory Auto Air for Heating and Cooling and don't us a kick up solenoid to control Idle with the ac on, Also have Power steering as well. 
Motor is as follows.
408 Cubes, Block is from a 95 Ford Lightning so it was a factory roller block.
Short Block Consists of Eagle Forged Crank, I-Beam Forged Rods, Ross Pistons, and a Main Girdle with ARP Studs.
Heads are Box Stock AFR 205's (these are the older Nitrous Ported version which are a CNC version if I recall, they are now called outlaw heads I think. I have flow sheets from the heads if you wanna see Real flow numbers off a Super Flow bench.
The springs were changed to match the Comp Hyd Roller Cam that we had Comp Grind as well. Valves are stock untouched from AFR.
The Camshaft is a Comp Custom Hyd Roller grind and the specs are 228/236@50 with 563/571 Lift and ground on a 113 LSA.
I run the Stock Style Hyd Roller lifters for Ford Motorsports along with the stock style retainer and dog bones.. both of which were bought new so I did not use the old spider and dog bones from the motor when I got it.
The intake is an Edelbrock Vic Jr unported but it matched the AFR heads to a T somehow...Carb is an 850 Holley Dbl pumper W/Manual secondaries.
Headers are FRP stepped from 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" into a 3" collector if I recall.
 
We dynode the motor with an HP 950 Carb and 1-7/8 or 2" primary headers on 93 octane pump gas and it responded to the tune of 550.9hp on motor and 659hp on a 125 shot of gas....Torque was over 500lbft at like 4000 RPM's I think? I would have to pull dyno sheets to verify that tho. 
 
All and all I could not ask for a better street friendly pavement pounder that I would drive anywhere.
I have driven the car to and from Cruising the Coast 3 years running, did some of the Hot Rod power tour and recently ran a poker run from Houston to Lake Charles LA with some high end exotics and this motor has been problem free except for the time I had converter issues and burnt the thrust bearing out, but that was MY fault.
Oh I get an average of 20 mpg with the 850 carb and OD transmission Btw LOL.
I have videos of the Idle in park and in drive if you wanna see them... it has become a little to mellow for me and I am wanting to possibly do a cam swap to something more aggressive sounding LOL...
It idles right at 650 RPM's in gear with the AC on and has a nice smooth lope to it hehe

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

Doesn't Look Good at ALL you say?

Doesn't Look Good at ALL you say?

Dammit Jim...Sorry to hear that.
Hope you had the stang insured for a good chunk of change...Take the payment, buy the car back and rebuilt that bad boy.

Well I don't have the gloss black hood anymore since I swapped to a Ridge Runner hood which is actually Plasti-Dipped the low gloss black.. It is a PITA to keep clean and shows water spots pretty bad if you don't dry it off.
It will either be gloss black or same color as the car when I get time to paint it.
 
Oh on a side note, We did a Poker run from Houston Tx to Lake Charles LA with a group called Race Armada Tx (RATX) which consists of a LOT of high end Italian cars, Lambo, Ferrari, BMW, Mercedes, McLaren and even a GT-40 :) and when the old school muscle rolls into the parking lot you better believe ALL the cameras come out, I cant tell you how many people walked away form the exotics to come see our old Stags.... My point here is that EVERYONE that talked to us about our cars said the colors were awesome, and you just don't get that with a lot of the factory colors IMHO, I love the WOW Factor of the new brighter colors and the 69's are one of a handful of cars that has the body lines and stance if done correctly to pull off just about any of the wild ass colors out there with style. 
Ill post up some pics from the Run later on in the Lobby or something.

Doesn't Look Good at ALL you say?

Doesn't Look Good at ALL you say?

I am still running a dual fan set-up form a Mercury cougar, Its the same as a Contour, and it keeps my 408w Cool no matter how hot it gets outside with the AC on in stop and go traffic.
I have had it on the car for over 3 years.
When I pulled the fans I also pulled a relay block with some 50amp relays I think... I used a cheap O fan controller from auto zone to control the relays which in turn control the fans... It works perfectly

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

That converter will work, and you may find it either a little tighter or little looser than 2400 on the flash side.
Flash or (Stall) is influenced a lot by what kinda power the motor makes when it comes to putting stock converters in. A custom converter will run you a lot more money but it will be built to your engine/driveline and car specifications.
I am actually going to be going back to a stock stall on my 4R70W simply because the last 2 times the company that built my converter has built it to loose for my liking...The car actually feels much slower with the looser converter LOL.
 
The Alphabet cams were good for their time and made cam selection a lot easier, and a LOT of people still run them but there are so many better grinds out there.
If your strapped for cash I say use the Alphabet cam you can get at a good price.
 
The cam the Comp Tech recommended for you seems way to damn big for your combo, hence Barnetts comment I believe.
Stockish heads and alum intake with light stall and the gear you are running I would shoot for something in the
215/220@.50 Duration range and keep the lift down around .450/.500 or so with a LSA in the 110/112 range.
Especially if you wanna run power brakes....
If I had to choose between the Alphabet cam and the Comp cam, I would likely go with the Alphabet as it would be a better match to your parts than the Comp cam would...

That converter will work, and you may find it either a little tighter or little looser than 2400 on the flash side.
Flash or (Stall) is influenced a lot by what kinda power the motor makes when it comes to putting stock converters in. A custom converter will run you a lot more money but it will be built to your engine/driveline and car specifications.
I am actually going to be going back to a stock stall on my 4R70W simply because the last 2 times the company that built my converter has built it to loose for my liking...The car actually feels much slower with the looser converter LOL.
 
The Alphabet cams were good for their time and made cam selection a lot easier, and a LOT of people still run them but there are so many better grinds out there.
If your strapped for cash I say use the Alphabet cam you can get at a good price.
 
The cam the Comp Tech recommended for you seems way to damn big for your combo, hence Barnetts comment I believe.
Stockish heads and alum intake with light stall and the gear you are running I would shoot for something in the
215/220@.50 Duration range and keep the lift down around .450/.500 or so with a LSA in the 110/112 range.
Especially if you wanna run power brakes....
If I had to choose between the Alphabet cam and the Comp cam, I would likely go with the Alphabet as it would be a better match to your parts than the Comp cam would...

Those Fans RPM has are Summit Brand Dual Fans. Don't remember model number but they are not to expensive.
They keeping your ride cool RPM?
 
The contour dual fans on my car don't have much clearance between my serp pulley set up but it is enough to get a wrench on and that is all that matters.... Champion Rad and Contour fans or something like RPM now has will all work great.
 
The countour fans pull more CFM than just about anything on the market for comparable sized units, plus they are factory and can be had at the junk yards for about 20-40 bucks...Also the Merc Cougars have same fans along with a few other ford mid size compacts with V6's

Oh when you replace the apron move the battery to the trunk and get one with no acid LOL that way you don't gotta do this again