MikeStang

Step AWAY FROM THE BEDDING AND GLAZING COMPOUND for starters.... That stuff is utter Crap IMHO.
A guy I know that owned a restoration shop for a very long time turned me on to some stuff years ago.
Its Called CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. Its made by C.R Laurence Co. Inc.... Its Black, messy as hell and will do the trick the first time... Just be sure to tape up about 2" of the glass at the weather stripping and 2-4" on the paint around the window...When I say this stuff is messy that is an understatement HaHa...Wear Gloves also because its super stringy.
Here is a link, you can get it on Amazon.
 
https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-CRL7708-Windshield-Sealant/dp/B000KZWKE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474406587&sr=8-1&keywords=crl+windshield+and+body+sealant
If link no workie go to Amazon and put in CRL Windshield and Body Sealant, you wanting the 7708 Stuff...Go ahead and get 4 tubes
 
 
 
 
Here is how my buddy showed me to do it.
 
Mark All your studs for the clips with some blue painters tape, which you should already have all around the glass on the body, then take a magic marker and make a line on the tape that's dead in line with your studs, extend the line to the edge of the tape in case you get sealer on it you will still be able to locate the line.
 
Install weather strip on glass after its been warmed in the sun for a bit, you could also warm it via a hair dryer or heat gun, just be careful.... Load the channel in the weather stripping with some good poly rope and set the glass in place, then have buddy hold glass in place from the outside, while you pull rope from inside to lip the seal over.... Im sure you know this already but figured I would relay it anyhow.
 
Next step... take the CRL sealer and cut the tip off close to the end, don't want a big gaping hole in the 1st tube, just a nice 1/4" thick bead.... now from the outside of the car, insert the tip between the weather strip and the glass and start squeezing. Its helpful to have someone help hold the rubber seal up for you so you can easily see how much your putting in. You MAY start to see a very small amount come out on the inside of the glass in the car...when you see it start moving working your way around the glass till you get back where you started. 1 Tube should make this pass, Possibly 1 & 1/4 tube...Really poke the tip down into the channel, don't worry about hurting the weather strip by lifting it up a good bit, I haven't torn one yet.
 
Next Step.....
If you went to a 2nd tube cut the tip a little bit bigger and start filling the space between the body and the weather stripping.... poke the tip down in there a bit and start squeezing till you see a little bit start to push out inside of the car...When you see it, start moving around the glass till you run out...load next tube and repeat all the way around... Be careful not to fill the channel up all the way tho...you still got clips to install.
 
Next step...
Install clips... I use a 1x4 board with a bunch of tape wrapped around then end and ALWAYS try to have new clips on hand, prefer to have NOS Clips if possible...Pop all the clips in place now and go ahead and add more sealer all the way around. Your basically topping it off and paying a lil special attention to around the clips.... Keep in mind that you still have stainless to install and if you fill it up 2 much you will have a tough time getting it on.
If I recall the last one I did we left the sealer just even with the top of the weatherstrip... Now just go back and smooth it all down with a rubber gloved finger tip and clean up all your mess off the glass and the car...
Install Stainless 24hrs later and your good to go.
This stuff doesn't get hard like silicone or anything else so putting stainless on is easy.
 
This method has worked on multiple occasions for me and should work just fine for you as well.... Hope I didn't forget anything

There is a little tound plastic seat stop on the lower cushion located to the rear just under the seat back near the seat hinge on both sides if I recall.
If you didnt reinstall one of these the seat will lean to one side.
A lot of times ppl remove them or cut them to allow the seat to have a more leaned back position

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Heads, Cam, Intake & Headers should do the trick.
Patriot Performance Alum heads are pretty good for the money, just buy bare and have machine shop build them to your liking tho bc their hardware is junk.
The Edelbrock top end package is a good way to go as well..have a friend who just did the entire top end kit on his rebuilt stock 351 and it made a world of difference to the point that we swapped him one of our center sections with 3.55's for his 4.10 equipped center section and he is one happy camper now..he kept saying that with his 5 speed he could break the tires looks way to easy for his liking under light acceleration in 1st to 3rd so we needed a 4.10 gear for a weak lil 306 so we swapped.
I wouldn't go to big on the cam if you are running power brakes tho.... Kicking in the cash to upgrade to Retro Fit Roller lifters IMHO is well worth the money if you have an older block that is not equipped for standard roller lifters..This will free up a little horsepower and allow you to run a roller cam with a good bit larger specs than you would with just a standard Hyd flat tappet cam and still keep the vacuum for power brakes and street manners. The Comp XE264HR OR the XE274HR cam seems to do really good in the 351's that we have run them in with both steel or Aluminum heads...of course it runs better with Alum heads but what cam doesn't LOL.
Intake just stick to a standard Dual Plane Alum Edelbrock and your will be happy.
Exhaust--- Pick your passion... I would go with Some Shorties tho because they make life much easier...1-3/4" primaries would be ideal but 1-5/8" will do okay with Iron heads.

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

When I run across something I did not expect or budget for while doing work for pay "Which I hardly ever do anymore" I ALWAYS call the customer and inform them of what I have found and ask them to come take a look at it and then give a price to fix it or just patch it up LOL..

Always love seeing Buckeye's Stock appearing "As ford should have built them Frame Rails" 
Man those are killer and I'm considering doing a set like that on my sons 68 Coupe I am building.

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

Would probably take more effort than its worth honestly, especially after removing the stuff from one car and getting new hoses made up to fit, re-sealing everything etc...
Just spring for the classic auto Air kit and be done with it.

Well if you can pick it up cheap enough and if it has parts that you need / want for your car or a future project then try to scoop it up.
Its really IMHO not worth saving but that is your call.
I recently ran across what I'm pretty sure is a 69 GT car about 10 miles from my house and on my first visit I noticed a LOT of really good stuff and got excited, but when I revisited the car during the day and chopped down a few bushes I saw that it was only worth the parts that I wanted / Needed .... Mainly a 100% Complete Fold down seat kit with untouched trap door and all the brackets, along with a Tilt Steering column..... The guy that owned the car died and his mother was now in possession of it and she was not at all happy when she pulled up and saw me inspecting it. I'm sure it held some sentimental value to her, but after my inspection I quickly saw that it was a Rotted shell that apparently had the clock catch fire at some point in its life and had burned the dash out b4 it was extinguished.
Long story short... If its a good M2 front kit and good rear kit and has a nice 9" and host of other good useable parts, take 1k cash with you and tell him all ya have is 1000 bucks and it needs WAY more work than its worth LOL

Well if you can pick it up cheap enough and if it has parts that you need / want for your car or a future project then try to scoop it up.
Its really IMHO not worth saving but that is your call.
I recently ran across what I'm pretty sure is a 69 GT car about 10 miles from my house and on my first visit I noticed a LOT of really good stuff and got excited, but when I revisited the car during the day and chopped down a few bushes I saw that it was only worth the parts that I wanted / Needed .... Mainly a 100% Complete Fold down seat kit with untouched trap door and all the brackets, along with a Tilt Steering column..... The guy that owned the car died and his mother was now in possession of it and she was not at all happy when she pulled up and saw me inspecting it. I'm sure it held some sentimental value to her, but after my inspection I quickly saw that it was a Rotted shell that apparently had the clock catch fire at some point in its life and had burned the dash out b4 it was extinguished.
Long story short... If its a good M2 front kit and good rear kit and has a nice 9" and host of other good useable parts, take 1k cash with you and tell him all ya have is 1000 bucks and it needs WAY more work than its worth LOL

I can tell ya right now that if you want to pack a set of new mustang seats into one of our cars the seat riser's will have to go given your 6' height..or you could go with a MTF drop in headliner to get some head room, but the new seats from about 2010 and up are way tall..I have a set from a 2012 we test fit Into my friends 69 as well as his wife's 68 FB and it's a tight squeeze and my head almost touched head liner at 5'-9" tall.
If you want the lowest possible seat height and wish to leave the risers try a set of Fiero seats and an upholstery kit from Mr. Mike's Fiero seats...besides the fiero seats look much better than the SN seats and are more comfy

I have installed one F.I. Tech unit and also have a friend who is running one on a 400 Pontiac.
I spoke to a Holley Rep last year while on the Hot Rod Power Tour and asked how his system stacked up against the F.I. Tech kits because it sure looked the same...His response was pretty simple..he looked at me, smirked and turned around and walked off LOL...At that point I decided if the F.I tech stuff worked I would just always use them unless there was something better at the same price point.
Here are my thoughts on the F.I. Tech.
1. Price point for what you get it great. The units are well built, look nice and install easy.
2. There are FAR more adjustments and tuning things in their software than I will EVER use.
3. Set-up and install was simple, just follow the directions and you can get it up and running really easy.
4. They offer several options to fill just about any HP level even with using N20 or Forced induction.
5. Their Electrical connectors and wiring are all good quality and come wrapped in mesh loom already.
6. They offer several different fuel supply options from in tank set-ups so you can modify your existing tank and put a pump in it or the fuel command center so you can use your stock pump to fill the command center which then uses their electric pump to supply the EFI and you don't need a return line... Or you can go frame mounted pump and return line.
Now here is what I have observed after playing with one for a little bit. I actually have my best friends Wife's 68 FB at my house right now which is the car that I did the install on.
To do set up you basically just need to follow their directions and pick your engine size, cam aggressiveness (scale of 1-3 I think) and supply a few other bits of info...Once you have done this and have adequate fuel system its a matter of hitting the key and making small adjustments.
This car has the power adder 800 kit on it and we initially hooked up the ignition system with the thought you just let the computer control the timing all the time, but found out quickly that the timing control is for the use of Nitrous or forced induction, so if you are not spraying or boosting you wont need the timing control, and since we don't have the gas on the car yet we opted to just hook it up as normal.
The system does monitor the timing and from what I understand it adjusts the fuel curves based on timing and demand, but it will not adjust the timing on the fly unless you hook it up to do so and it will only do it under spray or boost. So basically your normal curve that you have established as what your motor works on now is what the system uses and runs with.
If you use the timing control for gas/boost you have to lock out your distributor if I remember correctly.
Its really cool that you can be sitting at idle and manually adjust the AFR and watch the computer compensate for it and see how your car responds to it...This can be done through the whole RPM range.
Start up is immediate, Cold idle is perfect, AC comes on and Idle goes up and the car runs like a top.
All in all I like their systems and will eventually put one on mine  

Well My valve covers are baffled on all 4 Holes, so I'm hoping that the Valve wont suck any oil up and pump it into the intake LOL...The factory didn't need a separator so hopefully I wont...I guess when I take it out for a ride and put my right foot to the floor if I make a smoke screen I will know I gotta have a separator or catch can LOL.
Alan Marc has used one of the Wagner valves it seems.

Oh Btw just a little note for anyone running leaf springs and Cal tracs that may need to do some angle adjustment...do yourself a favor and get some U-Bolts that are about 1" longer than stock...it will allow you to loosten the rear end off enough one side at a time so as to slip your angle wedges in between the rear and spring plates.
Also use your cal trac bars to help line up the centering bolt into the axle flange spring plate hole since they usually move out of alignment when you loosen them.

Lmao..But it Is my beater Lol...I beat the hell out of it every time my ass hits the seat lol.
 

No he wouldn't know them since we have never had a reason to measure them.
 

Damn RPM we have the same set up.
I used lowering motor mounts as well so I could run a Vic Jr. Intake.
If you look at my car from the side the rear end appears to sit higher than my trans output shaft does.
My engine and trans are pointed down, Driveshaft actually runs slightly UP hill to my rear diff if I recall.
But from what I have read and the videos I have seen it should not matter as long as angles are equal but opposite which means if my trans was 2 degrees down my rear end should be pointing up 2 degrees to cancel out, and I have tried shimmying the rear up more and down more and nothing has really helped.
I'll climb under my beater tonight and take measurements of everything and report back.

Hey guys, its been a while since I have been on the boards... Finally moved back home, bought a new house and just finished my new Shop up so it is time to start on my Son's 1st car which will be the little 67 Coupe I picked up over a year ago.
Wasn't sure which Forum to put this into because there are some technical questions but a bit of a story line as well, so Moderators please feel free to move to the appropriate place. Also I know there are forums more dedicated to the 64-68 cars, but This is my home and I know everyone here and I know that there is more than enough of a knowledge base to take care of all my questions regarding this 67 so here goes.
I bought the little 67 Coupe pretty complete with a fresh 289, fresh 4 speed and rebuilt rear end. All in all the car is not in bad shape for the $2500 I paid for it
There are no rusted holes in the quarters, drop offs, around any windows, rocker panels shock towers or aprons, so I'm sure everyone is wondering what could possibly be bad right?
Well... When I bought the car I knew it had been hit lightly in the ass end on the pass side and that the floor pans had some light rust in them, so that was no surprise..Upon getting it stripped down last night it appears as tho I will need to replace the Pass rear frame rail due to an old accident, as well as the pass front rail due to rust in the battery area. The cowl is also rusted out in the normal location around the fresh air ducts..No big deal tho.
Despite having been smacked in the back end and having a frame rail that I could see was tweaked, the car sat level, all doors lined up and closed very well, fender to hood gaps were pretty nice and everything seemed to fit so I don't think its to twisted up.
After the purchase of this 67 I found a 68 for sale that had a TON of new parts so I scooped it up for $2000...car is a shit show rust bucket but has a host of good useable parts plus I got well over 2k in New parts to boot, so its a win win. 
I have complete front and rear frame rails for both sides, complete full length 1 piece floor pan and trunk pan, torque boxes, fenders, doors, core support, tail light panel, etc... So I have all of the sheet metal needed to fix the 67 that will be my Son's first car. In addition to all of this I have a complete Mustang II front suspension kit with brakes and coil overs etc.. That I did not use on the 66 I was building so this will go on to the 67.
Now that everyone knows what I have on hand and what I'm working with, here are the questions.
#1. Since I will be installing the Mustang II front kit and will need to remove the shock towers to do so, should I go ahead and remove the towers and then replace the pass side front rail, or leave the towers in place and remove the rail, using the towers as a locator of sorts? I have never done a set of frame rails before so this is a 1st... I have a very good frame shop that can straighten anything I mess up but I don't want to have to take it to them when the car is done and have them yanking and pulling on it, so would prefer to get it right the 1st time.
#2. In doing the frame rails do I HAVE to have a Jig built or will just pulling measurements suffice.... If a Jig is needed does anyone have a set of plans for one they would be willing to share?
#3. The car really does not need the full length floor pan that I have or the trunk pan however if it would same time and effort and make the rail install easier I will use the full length pan versus just doing patch pans.
 
On a side note, when you look at the front frame rails from the side of the car it almost appears as tho the PO may have ran across something and tweaked them up a bit because they are beat to hell and I was wondering would this even effect anything really since the body panels all lined up so good... Debating on just changing all 4 Rails since I have them, but if I don't need to I really don't want to haha...
So anyhow I am $4500 into my first Father / Son Car build, have just about every part I need already to do whatever I need to do and just need some opinions on what would be the best way to proceed.
This wont be my last mustang build so if I need to build a Jig it will get used again so that wont be a problem.
Anyhow Glad to finally be back to the forums and looking forward to talking to everyone again..
Ridge Runner I will be looking for some fiberglass parts from ya before long...Perhaps we can collaborate on a Custom hood ?? 
 
Cheers,
 Mike