MikeStang

Thanks RPM. He did a little photo shop clean up on in tho lol. Blacked out the windows as I had them rolled down, fixed a small misalignment problem on the hood..It was up a little high on the driver side, and he straightened the reflection in the side out even tho the body is straight it had a curved reflection in the side LOL.

Call Woody at Fordstrokers.net My local shop that built my 408 used an Eagle crank and rods with Ross Pistons and I run AFR 205's Cam is .571 max lift. Be sure and tell the person your getting the kit from what year block you are using as well, as I think the 351 older blocks have shorter deck height :) Also if you are looking at eagle or scat cranks have your builder call them and see if they have any blemish cranks...When I toasted the thrust bearing in my 408 due to converter issues my machine shop was going to just put another cast crank in which was rated about 700hp, but they called and said Eagle had a Blemished Forged crank that would handle north of 1200 or so hp and it was same price as a cast crank...they got it in and checked it out and it ended up needing to be turned .010 on mains which was fine with me, and they only charged me $25.00 to do the work and rebalance it all since I have used them for ever...Long story short, shop around. I saw a set of CNC Ported AFR 205's on one of my FB mustang pages for sale last night for $1200.00 with no springs but came with stud girdle and new poly locks...the springs sold with the cam, but you would be $1500 into a set of afr 205's after springs if you could get those.

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

Woule the classic auto air AC kit not work for you? Its fully under dash and has nothing that hangs out into the engine bay except the hoses...Just have to be sure they can supply the correct lines to adapt to that new style AC compressor.... I saw a 68FB at Cruising the coast last year with a coyote swap and it was running classic auto air I think

No I didn't cut the bottom of the dash off, I just removed the plastic surround pieces on each side and my console meets the metal part of the dash and goes up to the bottom of the dash pad. I really need a better way of tying it into the dash pad area because of the large shape of the dash pad...I cut a little piece of wood that was close to the shape of the dash and tapered it down to the size of the plywood so there was a transition of sorts. Yes this was my 1st attempt and I HATE building shit out of wood you hear me I HATE IT... only tools I used were a jig saw, a bench top belt sander, and a battery powered drill LOL. oh and of course a heat gun and electric stapler for doing the shitty vinyl covering....That damn upholstery adhesive don't hold like is should any more... The next console I do will be much the same but the radio will be mounted in a recessed area so it looks better, then I will just Vinyl the sides and glass and bondo up the top and paint it to match the car. There are a few options that may work for a shifter for you. Does that transmission have a manual linkage that activates things or is it all electronic? The B&M hammer shifter I used is not overly tall, but they make one that mounts under the car like the SN95 cars do, and even tho the transmission is larger you can move the shifter back in the console so it rests in your hand while you rest your elbow on the arm rest like mine is...my shifter is actually WAY back from the stock location...its about 4-5" tall and comes with the plastic top plate shown...Im sure you could mount or adapt a B&M shifter designed for a newer mustang to work.

Will 200 bucks also get me the metal piece you have to make to actuate the door rod? :) If so I may very well take a pair....Is the chrome all in good shape on the handles?

How hard are these handles to adapt to fit the stock door mechanism? Im interested in a set and the filler metal as well... Would look sweet on my 66 Coupe :) Man I know it sucks having to chop on that brand new floor pan. So what you doing for AC and heat>?

better pic

The white material is Sign board BTW...It can be heated with a heat gun and bent easily into just about any shape you need

Did someone say Double Din and AC controls>? Here's what I did...Was my 1st real attempt at building something like this and I will be rebuilding it with some fiberglass in the future. I used a classic auto Air controller btw. And I believe the Radio has a 7" screen... Part of the reason I wanna re-do it is so that I can do a better job of making a radio face plate area that looks better.

Dammit Jim...Sorry to hear that. Hope you had the stang insured for a good chunk of change...Take the payment, buy the car back and rebuilt that bad boy.

Run a Forever sharp Wheel in my car... Its not hard to see the speed O and I am only 5'-9" tall but your 6' so you should be able to see over the top of the wheel and down at the gauges, I see the speed O just above the wheel, but I have Fiero seats in my car so it sits a good bit lower than stock LOL

I have mine wired at full speed only, and run each fan off of its own relay. The amp draw is actually not that bad to be quite honest. I do have a new American Auto wire harness and a 4G alternator tho and I run a powered Sub, Electric Fuel pump, headlights, AC and elect fans and the charging system has no problem keeping up.

Yep made sense to me... I am pretty sure it will only go into one hole actually...When I bolted my 4R70W up it would only hit one spot because the 4Ris larger than a C6, and I believe its the 1st hole... I could be wrong tho but that sounds right to me. regardless it should sit relatively level

Well I don't have the gloss black hood anymore since I swapped to a Ridge Runner hood which is actually Plasti-Dipped the low gloss black.. It is a PITA to keep clean and shows water spots pretty bad if you don't dry it off. It will either be gloss black or same color as the car when I get time to paint it. Oh on a side note, We did a Poker run from Houston Tx to Lake Charles LA with a group called Race Armada Tx (RATX) which consists of a LOT of high end Italian cars, Lambo, Ferrari, BMW, Mercedes, McLaren and even a GT-40 :) and when the old school muscle rolls into the parking lot you better believe ALL the cameras come out, I cant tell you how many people walked away form the exotics to come see our old Stags.... My point here is that EVERYONE that talked to us about our cars said the colors were awesome, and you just don't get that with a lot of the factory colors IMHO, I love the WOW Factor of the new brighter colors and the 69's are one of a handful of cars that has the body lines and stance if done correctly to pull off just about any of the wild ass colors out there with style. Ill post up some pics from the Run later on in the Lobby or something.

Doesn't Look Good at ALL you say?

I am still running a dual fan set-up form a Mercury cougar, Its the same as a Contour, and it keeps my 408w Cool no matter how hot it gets outside with the AC on in stop and go traffic. I have had it on the car for over 3 years. When I pulled the fans I also pulled a relay block with some 50amp relays I think... I used a cheap O fan controller from auto zone to control the relays which in turn control the fans... It works perfectly

I am starting to wonder if I would see any real change if I swapped form 1.6 rockers to 1.7 Rockers on my current cam? Or maybe just 1.7 on one side perhaps. Cam is 228/236@50 563/571 Lift on a 113 LSA. I wanted a fairly smooth idle but the more I drive it the more I want a bit more Chop chop chop haha, it just doesn't sound really crisp at idle, there is a fair amount of lope but its a longer slow lope than comparable cams, which I know has to do with the 113LSA LOL. Just wanted to go as big as possible and still have power brakes

DAmmit man...Making me wanna go to UPS right NOW

Ha Damn Barnett My Cam isn't much bigger than his ... 228/236@50 563/571Lift on a 113LSA...Do I have a Wimpy Cam also?. On a side note I dynode with an HP 950 off of my 77Trans Am with a 455 and the carb was dead nutz on when we dynode the motor. I have almost same build as you do buy run a Vic Jr. intake and only 408 cubes .. made 550hp at the crank. I have tried a few different carbs on my car, and while I am running a 4R70W trans and 3.73 gears all of the carbs seemed pretty decent to me in terms of throttle response. Here is what I have tried. 1. Holley Street Avenger 770CFM...This was probably the most peppy in terms of throttle response, but lacked a little in power compared to the rest..It was Vac secondary with elect choke. 2.Holley Street Avenger 870CFM.... less peppy on the throttle response but better top end power...Always seemed to run rich.... Vac Secondary and elect Choke. 3. HP 950 Built by Tom Vaught on the Performanceyeares.com boards...Was built and used in my boosted application on my 455 Pontiac...This is the one we dynode the 408 with, it made best HP and target AFR's were spot on for a NA motor... No choke. manual secondaries 4. Holley 850 Double Pumper with elect choke... This is what I currently have on the car right now. I went back to a manual secondary carb so I could use my Top Shot N2O kit, and 850 seemed to be a good compromise between the 750's and 950, plus it has an elect choke LOL. This seems to be the best compromise and gives me all of the stuff I want/need in a carb. I need to tune it with my LM1 to get it dialed in perfectly but out of the box with stock jetting its pretty darn close and throttle response is instantaneous. I am seriously considering the FiTech EFI unit however LOL, but this carb just works pretty damn good so I am on the fence ATM

Ah you can always just get some nylon rope and feed it down into the spark plug hole, then loosen off the valves on that cyl and rotate the motor over by hand till it stops, and the rope will support the valve, then just rent ya one of those lil tools from Autozone and pop the retainer and keepers off and voila...check spring, then reinstall and return tool :)

A positive Teflon seal would be a good option to replace the umbrella seals also if that is indeed what's on there now.

Yeah I pulled a set of stock heads off a 351 a while back and it had rail type rockers and the tips didn't appear that long, but I may be wrong..I tossed the heads but probably should have kept them, just had no use for them LOL. Be sure to ask the shop what the coil bind in on the springs... you want at least 20% more spring capacity than the max lift of the cam you are using....Example.. Your cam has .550 Max lift, then you want a spring that is capable of at least .660 lift before it hits coil bind...Least that is what I was taught and it hasn't ever steered me wrong yet... I think I have a set of Hyd Roller springs that may work for you application ill let go cheap...They are brand new and came on my AFR heads, but I needed something a lil more beefy so I sprung for new springs, but they should work well for a small hyd roller like your shooting for....That is if you even need them

Ha RPM I'm FROM TEXAS, just been in Da Bayou for over 20 years HaHa... I use whatever gets the job done and will last a while hehe you can also use small pop rivets to hold the 2 halves together as well..

Installing the front is the easiest one to do IMHO... I did my first one, then once the new one got a bad crack I had a guy come to the house to do the 2nd one. Its pretty straight forward actually, but it is a 2 man job. Go to the glass shop and get 2 tubes of sealer and a can of primer... I don't recall what the name of the sealer was I used but it worked prefect. The primer will go on the glass, as the new sealers do not like UV and since our cars do not have the little black trim strip around the glass to help prevent UV rays you need to apply some of the primer to basically make the little black strip. Get a roll of 1/2 wide masking tape and apply it all the way around the perimeter of the inside of the glass as close to the edge as you can. Now put another strip of 1/2" tape butted up next to the first little strip you put around the outside.... Now go back and peel the first strip off. That should leave you with a perfect 1/2" strip of clean glass to put the primer on. Now brush on the black primer you got from the glass shop...it may take more than 1 coat but not likely, just wanna be sure you got good coverage...once its tacked up pull the tape off and it will leave a nice 1/2" black trim line all the way around the glass... Let it dry however long the can says. Now take those tubes of sealer you got and apply a nice bead on the car all the way around the frame ... I would have the glass shop cut the tips on the sealer for you because they generally cut them so that it makes a nice clean correctly sized bead. once you got a nice bead all the way around, have your buddy help you put the glass in... just sit it in place starting at the bottom and then lay it back in to the top... Be sure not to forget to install the 2 little "T" shaped pieces at the bottom of the glass that help hold it up...once the glass is set into place, give it a light push to seat it in place, and then you can go around and add a lil sealer at the edges if you feel the need...I put a lil extra and never had a leak...The guy who came to my house didn't use any extra and his hasn't leaked either... I would then install the stainless to be sure you have a good fit and give you some time to adjust the windshield if you don't...you may end up having to push the glass down a bit if the stainless is sitting 2 high but Mine just went right in. This may not be the way everyone does it but it worked fine for me