MikeStang

Yeah me to bud. However from what I have been reading this is not always the case and a lot of the time it is based on the intake manifold design. I dont have my Vic Jr. Off the car or I would measure it and see exactly how much of an angle it had cut into it. Anyone running a Vic Jr. That can put an angle finder on carb mount surface and tell me what kinda degree fall you have? At least I came up dead nutz left to right tho ..hahahah

Decided to try something different for a change and dropped the car down off the stands and sat it on all 4 wheels at ride height, then popped the carb off and set the digital indicator on the carb mounting Pad and came up with 4.6 degrees down angle...is it just me or does that seem rather steep? The manifold is a Vic Jr. And I have drop motor mounts.

So then on the front I would need to incorporate a shock somehow also...humm that complicates things a bit

Why do you even need a shock if going to a bag is my question? The bag will be mounted to the roller perch and then to the shock tower so would the bag not handle the ride height and shock absorber duties?

I'm sure I could go to a 5 leaf, but that will be the 3rd set of rear springs I have had on the car and I can get the bag kit for $279 which is far cheaper than another set of rear springs with tax and shipping...Plus I like the stance when its sitting still.

Lmao..But it Is my beater Lol...I beat the hell out of it every time my ass hits the seat lol.

Okay I'm considering adding a set of bags to the back of my ride so as to raise the car up some in the back as it sits a bit to low for me right now with my 4.5 Mid eye springs...this will hopefully accomplish 2 things...Raising the car and allowing me to see if my driveline vibration is affected by ride height. So after talking to ridetech about their air over leaf kits I have settled on a bag that should fit, but I really dont know if there will be enough room for it where they say to put it, plus the frame rail does not pass directly over the leaf in this area and is more off to the side which would mean I need a side mount bracket which they supply in their kit... But for the rear I am wondering if I dont just weld a bar from rail to rail then weld bag plates to the rear axle and install them in same location as a 4 link would put then...Thoughts? Now on to the front Bag situation...I could simply swap the front springs for a taller spring, but would prefer a bag set up, however I have no desire to spend $900+ on Air Rides shock/bag set up..instead here is what I was thinking about. If you look at Air rides set up it's a shock of sorts with a bag around it and it bolts in the stock location on the UCA then has a large flange of sorts to bolt on at the top... My question is why could someone (Me) not take their existing roller spring perches and add a mounting plate to either a standard bag or rolling sleeve bag, then just build an upper mount to bolt into the shock tower? I am aware that a bag has to go straight up and down and if I'm thinking about this right if you were to add a mounting plate to the top of a roller perch it would allow the bag to stay straight as the suspension traveled through its range of motion...So why have a shock/Bag up front when just a bag will do the trick??

Damn RPM we have the same set up. I used lowering motor mounts as well so I could run a Vic Jr. Intake. If you look at my car from the side the rear end appears to sit higher than my trans output shaft does. My engine and trans are pointed down, Driveshaft actually runs slightly UP hill to my rear diff if I recall. But from what I have read and the videos I have seen it should not matter as long as angles are equal but opposite which means if my trans was 2 degrees down my rear end should be pointing up 2 degrees to cancel out, and I have tried shimmying the rear up more and down more and nothing has really helped. I'll climb under my beater tonight and take measurements of everything and report back.

No he wouldn't know them since we have never had a reason to measure them.

Well get me some measurements and a drawing together so I can slap that dude together. I have been looking at some stuff guys have built online and it really doesn't look that tough to build really. Just use the drawing Unilec provided for factory measurements and Voila

I don't know the angles but I can get them the next time I am near his car... His sits just about the same as mine does. It may be a little bit b4 I can get the measurements

I'm running a 275/40/18 in the rear. Wheels are Rambler U111's and are 18x9.5. I do however have a 66 length rear end in the car LOL. My best friends 69 was running Mickey Thompson 275/60/15's on Mag 500s with no fender roll, but on really big bumps the tire would rub.

It doesn't appear to be a Double Din bezel, Fear... He said he used a DEN 1 Flat screen so pretty sure that is a larger face radio but with a single Din body . I just did a console and put a 7" touch screen in mine LOL... mandates the classic auto air controls tho

Digging the front clip Jig Ridge. Looks easy enough to build and not to big to store

Thanks guys, it's great to be back. Been wanting to get to building on this 67 as it seems to be a little easier than my 69 was for some reason Lol

Well I am running leaf springs but also have Cal-Trac's which I have tried adding more or less preload to in order to see if that helps any...it does not Lol!!.

My best friends 69 is running same 4.5 leaf mid eye spring as me with a TKO 500 and he has Zero vibrations...makes me so damn mad

Nope... My vibration is not engine or trans related.... I can hold any RPM in neutral and its smooth... my engine is also Zero balanced so it's not a balancer or plate issue and vibration was there b4 and after I had motor freshened up. In case anyone wondered what 4.5 Leaf Mid eyes with 275/40/18 looks like in terms of ride height..here it is

Hey Ridge I'll take all the pics and measurements you can get for the Jig because I plan on building more of these cars in the future lol. The front rail is mainly rusted at the battery area, but as I said the bottoms of the rails under the floor pan sections appear to be tweaked upwards, plus they look like utter hell lol. My plan would be to replace the rails, install car on a rotisserie then install torque boxes, build some frame rail connectors much as I did the 66, then start working a 6-8 point cage tying in the front rails so as to help out with the M2 suspension and lack of towers

I to have a Cyclical Vibration on my 69, Car has a 4R70W Swap and is Lowered with 4.5 leaf mid eye springs in the rear and cut coils in the front. I used Joe Persads trans swap bracket, trans has been gone through 2 times just to check for issues, brand new high speed balanced driveshaft, which I had checked locally after purchase and was found to be dead on, New rear Axle housing with new Axles, bearings Etc... chunk was rebuilt by me and then checked later on by local board member who builds rear ends for a living, and also swapped my 3.50s for 3.73's, have checked and changed the pinion angles MULTIPLE times from Plus to minus and nothing seems to make it get any better or worse LOL. So now I have decided that the car is probably a bit to low because I drag Power steering brackets, mufflers, headers, etc... So I am going to install the Air Ride Air over Leaf bags and instead of having to remove a leaf like they say I will just use the bags to lift the car to the desired ride height in the back, there by smoothing out the ride and giving me some ground clearance, and as a Side benefit I am HOPING that as it nears a closer to stock ride height maybe the vibration I have will go away, and if it does then I will be able to say that with 100% certainty the vibration was due to ride height and drive line angle... I will also of course be installing bags on the front, but right now for $279.00 the air over leaf set up will allow me to not only get the ride height up like I want but will also allow me the chance to see if that is whats causing my vibrations.

Hey guys, its been a while since I have been on the boards... Finally moved back home, bought a new house and just finished my new Shop up so it is time to start on my Son's 1st car which will be the little 67 Coupe I picked up over a year ago. Wasn't sure which Forum to put this into because there are some technical questions but a bit of a story line as well, so Moderators please feel free to move to the appropriate place. Also I know there are forums more dedicated to the 64-68 cars, but This is my home and I know everyone here and I know that there is more than enough of a knowledge base to take care of all my questions regarding this 67 so here goes. I bought the little 67 Coupe pretty complete with a fresh 289, fresh 4 speed and rebuilt rear end. All in all the car is not in bad shape for the $2500 I paid for it There are no rusted holes in the quarters, drop offs, around any windows, rocker panels shock towers or aprons, so I'm sure everyone is wondering what could possibly be bad right? Well... When I bought the car I knew it had been hit lightly in the ass end on the pass side and that the floor pans had some light rust in them, so that was no surprise..Upon getting it stripped down last night it appears as tho I will need to replace the Pass rear frame rail due to an old accident, as well as the pass front rail due to rust in the battery area. The cowl is also rusted out in the normal location around the fresh air ducts..No big deal tho. Despite having been smacked in the back end and having a frame rail that I could see was tweaked, the car sat level, all doors lined up and closed very well, fender to hood gaps were pretty nice and everything seemed to fit so I don't think its to twisted up. After the purchase of this 67 I found a 68 for sale that had a TON of new parts so I scooped it up for $2000...car is a shit show rust bucket but has a host of good useable parts plus I got well over 2k in New parts to boot, so its a win win. I have complete front and rear frame rails for both sides, complete full length 1 piece floor pan and trunk pan, torque boxes, fenders, doors, core support, tail light panel, etc... So I have all of the sheet metal needed to fix the 67 that will be my Son's first car. In addition to all of this I have a complete Mustang II front suspension kit with brakes and coil overs etc.. That I did not use on the 66 I was building so this will go on to the 67. Now that everyone knows what I have on hand and what I'm working with, here are the questions. #1. Since I will be installing the Mustang II front kit and will need to remove the shock towers to do so, should I go ahead and remove the towers and then replace the pass side front rail, or leave the towers in place and remove the rail, using the towers as a locator of sorts? I have never done a set of frame rails before so this is a 1st... I have a very good frame shop that can straighten anything I mess up but I don't want to have to take it to them when the car is done and have them yanking and pulling on it, so would prefer to get it right the 1st time. #2. In doing the frame rails do I HAVE to have a Jig built or will just pulling measurements suffice.... If a Jig is needed does anyone have a set of plans for one they would be willing to share? #3. The car really does not need the full length floor pan that I have or the trunk pan however if it would same time and effort and make the rail install easier I will use the full length pan versus just doing patch pans. On a side note, when you look at the front frame rails from the side of the car it almost appears as tho the PO may have ran across something and tweaked them up a bit because they are beat to hell and I was wondering would this even effect anything really since the body panels all lined up so good... Debating on just changing all 4 Rails since I have them, but if I don't need to I really don't want to haha... So anyhow I am $4500 into my first Father / Son Car build, have just about every part I need already to do whatever I need to do and just need some opinions on what would be the best way to proceed. This wont be my last mustang build so if I need to build a Jig it will get used again so that wont be a problem. Anyhow Glad to finally be back to the forums and looking forward to talking to everyone again.. Ridge Runner I will be looking for some fiberglass parts from ya before long...Perhaps we can collaborate on a Custom hood ?? Cheers, Mike

Made the Race Armada Tx Poker Run again this weekend without incident or problems, but man those Texas roads are getting as bad as the Louisiana Roads are LOL. Got to lay some hate down on a new Charger as well as a 68 Camaro.. I was actually quite surprised the Charger didn't put up more of a fight since it was the scat pack set up or some such non-sense and we went from about a 60 Roll.. He was with me on the jump but soon as the Ol Stang hit 6k and shifted from 3rd to 4th it looked like he slammed on the brakes LOL.

Hey Grabber, you want those 4.5 leaf reverse eye springs?> They are laying out by my buddies shop in Lake Charles, I can box them up and send to you but they are heavy as hell and not sure what shipping would be on them.

Well they rolled the 275/5518s out next to the car and i knew they were a no go LOL. Think i may consider some 17" rear rims for better tire selection

Will do bud..May get me a cheepo set of shocks to measure some lengths just to see if my Ranchos are longer than stock. Heres how she sits now