MikeStang

We were running the stock springs and KYB Shocks on the rear....We are swapping to a 5 Leaf reverse eye in a bit tho....gona get all out stuff from opentracker racing. But the car is getting a new set of Coys Rims in an 18" size and some lower profile tires Mike

one more

This is a Picture of my friends 69 with MAg 500's and BFG's. you can fit a 275/60/15 under the rear but you have to roll the fender lips or it will rub when you hit big bumps or have a pass in the back seats, but it fills the wheel wells. My pic is too big, I will throw them into an album.....The tires on the rear are MT Street Et's, they are 275/60/15's, and like I said if you roll they lip they fit with no rubbing. Well it let me add a pic, guess they are not too large let me know if you cant see them and I will make an album Mike

Ok I am putting up a few more videos. Mike

No problem....The reason I was asking about the BOV is because I got this stuff new from a Friend that works exclusively for Ford in their Special projects division, and he sold me both gates and the BOV as a matched Set that would work for a Twin Turbo Application which is what I was doing on my 77TA at the time, and I trust that what Tom Says will work, WILL WORK haha. But im sure you could get your own BOV of which you will only need 1 really if your blowing both turbos into One main pipe and into the carb hat or injection system, what ever the case. I was only asking 50 bucks for the BOV if you did decide you wanted it. The gates and the BOV will support and Control up to about 850 to 900 Hp with out boost creep....I was only really looking for 500 hp to the ground with 10 lbs or less of boost, and with the turbos I had that was not going to be a broblem. I could have done upwards of 900 hp with them, but I did not have the bottom end to handle that LOL. Any how let me know what you want to do, they will not go on Ebay for a few weeks, but all the other crap will be on there tonight. Mike

Would like to get 250.00 for both of them. That is Half of what I paid for them New. I think I still have the paper work that came with them. But not sure, have to look. Ya interested in the BOV as well? I can get pics of the stuff for ya if you would like. Mike

Sorry the Harness has got to stay, my friend just reminded me that we will be needing all the plug ins to reinstall on my new harness, unless we want to buy all new ones, which I may do, but for now the harness has come off of the For Sale List....but may be back up after a time that I see i dont need it. Sorry bout that .. Mike

Yeah I know the feeling...I had same problem with the core support....I cut the front lower cross member off and my core support was rusty in one corner, and POP it came loose from the inner apron on the battery side, which I was replacing next, so I replaced the apron, then fabbed up a piece where the core support had fallen apart and welded it up....I have also noticed rusted holes in my Front window channel, up high at the top which im now in the process of replacing. There was alot of bondo on my roof, but no visable dents or holes on the inside.....But once I removed the bondo I can se how wavy the roof is....I have considered replacing it just to get the rust out of the A Pillars and be sure there is nothing in there. My solution was to spray POR 15 down in the pillars till it ran out the bottom.....I love that stuff.....I had the car blasted underneath and under the hood and in the trunk, then applied POR 15 to everything....only problem is now I have to rough up the surface to put the Lizard Skin under the car and apply another coat of POR 15 under the hood. And you wana talk about a PITA, that stuff is damn near bullet proof....I pounded on some wavy metal on one of my aprons to straighten it out and i could not beat the stuff off the metal..I LOVE IT. Anyhow i plan on painting under the hood with it again to get the orange peel and trash out I had on the first go around....Im going for the SHINY black under the hood, not the flat you guys seem to love LOL Mike

Just outside of Baton Rouge LA. In Walker Address is 13858 Timberlake Dr. Walker LA, 70726 if your trying to calculate shipping

Ok Gents before I put this stuff on ERAPE I figured I would give fellow enthusiasts first cracks. #1. Complete 8" rear from my 69 Mach 1...No it didnt come with this rear, but its what was there when I got it...Its an open unit with 3.00 gears....seems to be in working order but i cannott verify that, as I have not opened it up or ran it in the car. Only reason i am pretty sure it is what i say is because it had the tag still hanging on it. PRICE...Best offer and you come get it. #2. WAR 9" Case with EQUALOCK 4 Pin POSI. Not to be confused with a TRACLOCK. Dont know the internal condition of this thing, its got some slop in it, and needs complete rebuild. If i remember correct its packing a set of 4.11 gears. But its all there....the Posi unit is out of the housing and the housing has been glass beaded and Primed on the outside and ready for paint and rebuild..........I would consider seperating the posi from the case, but would prefer to sale all as one unit.........Cases go anywhere from 50-100 Bucks on Ebay....and I have yet to find an EQUALOCK Posi on Ebay, so not sure on the price of those, but for some one looking for a unit like this for their numbers matching resto, here ya go. #3 Standard 9" WAB case I think I got those letters right....this is justa a standard run of the mill 9" Case, and I will throw in an open unit with 3.00 gears for free if you buy the case and pay shipping.....its torn down, and case has been glass beaded and primed....All CAses come with pinion supports and adjuster nuts.......50.00 sound ok.... #4 Rear deck lid off my 69 MAch 1. If it looked like it had rust in it to me I replaced it with NEW SO this piece has to go...No Holes or rusted through spots, i just wanted new because I know these are prone to rust out....Make Offer #5. FMX Tranny from my MAch 1....Condition ....Unknown...when i got car the guy said it ran till his son ran the car hot and cracked a head, and there the car sat for 10 years....So likley it will need a complete rebuild....MAke offer.....You come get it...or I will ship if u pay freight #6. Complete wiring harness for 69 MAch 1....its not in bad shape, im just going back with Painless. MAke offer. #7. 2 Turbonetics Delta Gate Mark II Waste Gates, these came from my old twin turbo system off my 77 Trans Am.....they were installed to mock up, and fired and run for 15 min, then decided they would not be large enough for my requirements so they were removed....they are in like new condition.......Price....MAke offer. #8. 1 Vortech BOV, cant remember the serial number on it, but I can get pics #9. 1 Pass Side door that came with my MAch 1, it looks rust free, and has no internals or glass...the lock mech is still there but thats it. I just bought 2 new doors because once again I didnt want any chance of rust for at least the next 15 years LOL...Make offer. #10. 1 PAir of 275-60-15 Mickey Thompson Street Et's...Appx 15 passes on these...we ran them on my friends 69 MAch and it rubbed the sides a bit on hard launch and thus we removed them,,,,they have a few small cuts right at the edge of the tread, but nothing that will effect the safety of the tire. plenty of life left in these tires, as they dont require long burn outs. I think that is it for now. All of this stuff is make offer Pricing, but dont come at me with "oh i will give ya 10 bucks for your tires and pay shipping" Lets be realistic, I know what most of this stuff is worth, but im not looking to make a fortune either. Lets be fair with eachother..........Oh I will accept trades as well...What ya Got. I need........complete weather stripping kit for 69 MAch 1, Upholstry, complete suspension, and all the usual stuff one needs when doing a full on resto :P Mike

I located and ordered some screw in type studs...I suppose I will see what they are and if they are worth a crap here in a day or so. They were 6 bucks for 10 and the shipping was 10 bucks, LOL so 16.00 total....I live in Louisiana By the way. If that stud gun is avaliable and I see I need it :P

UMmmmI cant see my little post on the Quarter panel replacement....Was it removed or something...I had more info and links to add. Mike

I would suggest the same as all the afore mentioned mods, but when it comes to the ignition system, if you decide to replace the distributor and go with electronic ignition, send the NEW distributor to a professional and have them tune it on a Sun machine, that has by far been the best bang for the buck of all the little things I have done to all my cars.....Example.....My 77Trans Am with 455 ran fine started and idled well, with no problems and ran consistant 13.00 to 12.90's on 8.5-1 compression, small cam, 3.23 gears, and TH 350 tranny with a nice converter, and weighing in at 4000lbs. I sent my distributor to a fellow I know and he called and said it needed a few things done to it, so I spent 75 bucks and let him work his magic....He said it should pick the car up a bit, and it did...picked it up to the tune of 3 tenths, car now runs 12.70's and I didnt do anything but have the distrubutor recurved...it also idles a bit smoother, and just feels like it performs better at every RPM. We used the same guy to do my friends 393 powered 69 MAch 1, and it picked the car up just about the same amount, and cured some of the dieseling issues we were having, along with a few other little symptoms the car was having....So in conclusion have some one recurve your dist. Sorry for the long winded post. Mike

Fast, Demon is correct, the Dynacorn Quarters do not come with the studs made into the panel for the emblem on the side, nor do they come with the studs in the window channel for the moldings to clip on to. I need to call and see if there are replacement studs you can buy that either weld on or some type of stud that just screws into the panels. In the rear of the car on that side I also replaced the Trunk drop off pan, along with about 6 inches of the lower wheel house....I could have just bought a lower patch for the wheelhouse, but it was cheeper and easier for me to just fab one up out of some 16g sheet metal I use for patches. Well it ws definately cheeper to fab the part, but bending that 16G to the right shape is a Pain in the Potatoes for sure. Aside from those two panels, I had to weld in some other assorted rusted holes as well. I should have just replaced the whole rear tail light panel since it had 3 holes in it as well \, but that would have mandated I cut it loose from the other GOOD side quarter panel, and I didnt want to go through that headache. It seems like every time I remove a panel from another one that has rust in it, there is always a quanity of rust between the panels that you will NEVER be able to get all the way out unless you replace the panel, and this being said makes me wonder really when some one says they have a RUST FREE FULLY RESTORED CAR, how rust free and restored is it really, I mean after all, unless they remove EVERY WELDED PANEL, there is NO WAY that the car is rust free, and at some point in time the car will develope cancer.......with as far as my car is going down I am hoping to get about another 20 years out of it before i have visable rust...hopefully lol. Mike

What size rubber ya got on there?

Take the 150 dollar fiberglass one and cut it down 1.5" then mount it......the mustang Blackened that foose did for Bud brutsman runs it that way and it looks BAD ARSE That is what im going to attempt. Mike

Ascension Pony Cars in Louisiana...Joe Hebert has several and he will remove it, crate and ship to you or you can go get it...I use him for everything...super nice guy . Mike

We put my 275/60/15 Et Street Radials Under my buddies 69 Mach with unrolled fender lips...Does ok as long as you dont ride a passanger over 200 lbs LOL. The rim was a Stock Mag 500 15x8 stock offset. that is a pretty good sixe tire for that car and fills the wheelwells pretty good

Legion, I used the Multi tool to hack the quarter panel up into 4 pieces LOL. I used the little half moon metal cutting blade and it cut through it like butta lol. I dont know that you can get that panel off in one piece with all the places you have to bust it loose. Fox, before you order your quarter panel check to see if the wheel well is gone and the trunk drop off as well. Also dont forget there is a piece that welds to the tail panel that has a tendancy to rust out as well...its right under the end cap...mine has holes in 3 places, but it can be fixed and I dont want to remove it because I would end up destroying the tail panel getting it loose...I work fast but not cautiousley so I have a tendancy to tear panel up getting them off. LOL....I will shoot another video tomorrow and point out a few of the areas of concern again...We put the trunk drop off on the car tonight as well as rebuilt t he door hinges on one side, and drilled out some rust and did more rust prep. I ordered the rear valance and it should be here Friday, and friday night we will install the Quarter and weld it into place and close that chapter. I figure with one guy doing it, it should take about 2 good weekends if you have never done it...We have spent about 32 total hours on it so far and its still not on, but we also sanded the entire back side, and put POR 15 on it, and a bunch of other misc crap LOL. I will get you more info as it is avaliable. Mike

Well guys, We ripped the whole quarter panel off of my 69 MAch 1 This past weekend, and are fabbing up a few pieces that were rusted out. We decided to shoot a video of the progress as we did the repair, but we did not start with step one. Instead we skipped some of the stuff we considered Simplistic of easy to do crap because we figured if you were man enough to tackle a project of this magnitude, you should know most of the tools you would need and how to use them, so we left these parts out LOL Anyhow here is a link on youtube to the First and second videos...dont have the 3rd, 4th and so on up there yet. Leme know what you think. Mike

I can measure my seat platforms and give you the dimensions...I recently replaced the whole driver floor pan and platform and put it back in place to within 1/8" from where the origional was, and I didnt spend tons of time measuring and remeasuring and all tht crap like I read on the net....You just have to give yourself some referance points to meaure off of and record the orig measurements, then cut and replace...Easy peezie Mike

Well this is just another piece that I have had to replace on my 1969 Mach 1 So I can lend some considerable advice and provied some pretty good pictures if anyone is interested......Its really not as hard as you might think. If anyone is interested respond here and I will post up all the info and pictures I have. Mike

Ok Since I have now replaced 2 of them on the same car and everything is still square and looking good i think I can lend some advice, altho im no expert. If anyone is interested I can post pictures and give directions on this step by step process if anyone is interested. Reply here and I will put up the information Mike