MikeStang

Heads, Cam, Intake & Headers should do the trick. Patriot Performance Alum heads are pretty good for the money, just buy bare and have machine shop build them to your liking tho bc their hardware is junk. The Edelbrock top end package is a good way to go as well..have a friend who just did the entire top end kit on his rebuilt stock 351 and it made a world of difference to the point that we swapped him one of our center sections with 3.55's for his 4.10 equipped center section and he is one happy camper now..he kept saying that with his 5 speed he could break the tires looks way to easy for his liking under light acceleration in 1st to 3rd so we needed a 4.10 gear for a weak lil 306 so we swapped. I wouldn't go to big on the cam if you are running power brakes tho.... Kicking in the cash to upgrade to Retro Fit Roller lifters IMHO is well worth the money if you have an older block that is not equipped for standard roller lifters..This will free up a little horsepower and allow you to run a roller cam with a good bit larger specs than you would with just a standard Hyd flat tappet cam and still keep the vacuum for power brakes and street manners. The Comp XE264HR OR the XE274HR cam seems to do really good in the 351's that we have run them in with both steel or Aluminum heads...of course it runs better with Alum heads but what cam doesn't LOL. Intake just stick to a standard Dual Plane Alum Edelbrock and your will be happy. Exhaust--- Pick your passion... I would go with Some Shorties tho because they make life much easier...1-3/4" primaries would be ideal but 1-5/8" will do okay with Iron heads.

Okay gentlemen here is the deal. 1967 Mustang Coupe is in pretty nice shape, I started tearing it down to restore for my son when I stumbled upon a 68 that was even better and already had new floor pans and the Shelby tail light panel installed so I stopped work on the 67 and pushed it out under my little covered shed. The pans are not in bad shape and just need to really be patched. The quarter panels and drop off pans are in excellent shape, fenders and doors are in good shape as is the trunk...The car is a solid little car to restore... Its got 5 Lugs all around and was told the rear end was rebuilt b4 I got it... Car had a 289 and 4spd in it but I'm using that so no motor or transmission is in the car and the car is stripped down to just a rolling chassis so you can see EXACTLY what your getting....Rails are in good shape as well. 1968 Mustang Coupe....Rust Bucket POS Parts car...This thing makes a block of swiss cheese look solid HOWEVER I bought it because it came with an ass load of brand new parts and it still has a lot of good useable stuff on it. Car is equipped with an Inline 6 and a 3 speed...brake and clutch pedal still there also. 1987 LTD Crown Vic. Bought this car from a buddy of mine and if the front end was not busted up I would have drove this thing LOL... Bought it just because its got a 65k Mile RUNNING EFI 302 and a fresh AOD transmission...You can actually drive it around the block still LOL. So here's what all you get with this package deal. 1967 Mustang Coupe (With Clear Louisiana Title In my Name) plus all associated fenders & Doors etc 1968 Mustang Coupe (No title bc I haven't applied for it) plus all associated fenders and doors. 1987 LTD (No title because I don't care if I have it or not LOL) 1. Brand New Dynacorn Full Floor pan...Yep the BIG one 2. Brand new Dynacorn Full Rear Pan...The other big one that joins to the first one. 3. 2ea new Complete Rockers..pretty sure they are Dynacorn. 4. New Core Support 5. New Torque Boxes 6. Running 65K Mile EFI 302 with fresh AOD that is in the LTD 7. All Glass for both Mustangs. 8. also have a bunch of other new parts in boxes that I don't need that will go as well. Just trying to clean some crap out and move some of these cars out of my shop/Yard So for a Measly $3500 you get all this fun stuff to play with, and once you build the 67 you can haul the 68 & the LTD to the scrap yard and recoup about $400 Cash so you are only into the 67 got about 3100 haha. Located in Walker Louisiana just outside of Baton Rouge Contact me here or via Email / Text 225-241-3278 Pics to follow this evening. Thanks, Mike

Retro Shoot me a contact number and Ill text you some pics of my fold down as I was putting it in the car... and yes there are a few differences in the 68 to 69 fold down set up, but nothing you can overcome with a little ingenuity. The rear fiberglass piece that sits above the trap door and just below the window required me to epoxy some "Fuzzy Rivets" on to it and make some brackets to screw in for them to attach to since my can never came with them and trying to find some are a bit of a PITA and not cheap, plus I don't like to wait for parts when I can make my own. Ridegerunner makes most of the fiberglass parts you need if your missing anything.

Yes you can... Have done it with my 4R70W a few times LOL, just a matter of making the motor tilt back far enough in the rear...Don't even ask how I made that happen LOL

CPP Coil over conversion for the front end is what I swapped to... Came with Viking Double adj Coil overs and used stock mounting locations but removes the Spring perch... and they were right at $400.00 for the set..I LOVE MINE

I second the use of Shorty headers...Every mustang I have had has run long tubes and even the $1000 set that I currently have are a Pain in the ass to install and they hang on everything so Go shorties and be done with it

Toss us a link to see. I did a Power Granada Disc Brake swap and it was like $749 for everything from the master and booster to the rotors and pads . it is a really easy swap to do and the directions were clear.

NE ONE ??

Who's Mini Tub kit is this. I just did a set of Mini Tubs using Detroit speeds kit and it was a huge pain in the ass, and their paperwork that comes with the kit is totally different than the videos online they have of installing the same kit... Basically now that it is all done my rear seats in my sons 68 Coupe wont fit without some modification to the seats or the tubs...On the plus side tho the car will now SWALLOW a set of 315/30/17 Tires with PLENTY Room to spare and if tires weren't so expensive I would go to a 335 LOL

When I run across something I did not expect or budget for while doing work for pay "Which I hardly ever do anymore" I ALWAYS call the customer and inform them of what I have found and ask them to come take a look at it and then give a price to fix it or just patch it up LOL..

How about a few pics of the little roll around contraption you have under the ass end of the car..Need to fab up something to move a few of mine around on like this

Man these old school broncos are fetching a FORTUNE right now..to think something we used as old hunting trucks are fetching 50-100k plus LOL. So they Re-Pop Bronco full bodies now? I want to know what that bright orange tube your using for the header mock up is? You guys are doing some Jam up work for sure...

I'm running AFR 205 Heads on My little 408 and it made 550 Crank Hp My best friend is running a set of Chepo Patriot performance heads with their valves and Comp Springs and his 408 with slightly bigger cam than I am running put down 410 RWHP through a TKO500... The Patriots have come a LONG way. Trickflow is also Jam up for the money but the Twisted wedge series you will need to check PTV clearance closely as they might need TF Pistons.

Always love seeing Buckeye's Stock appearing "As ford should have built them Frame Rails" Man those are killer and I'm considering doing a set like that on my sons 68 Coupe I am building.

Damn Newstang looks like you have a bit more room in your transmission tunnel than I do in mine. I ran my wires up the tunnel and into the engine bay, then through the fire wall and then cut a hole in the glove box liner to run wires through and simply set my controller in the glove box...It sits in there upside down but I can still read it.

Thanks gents

Yeah Classic auto air control panel for the AC. Harness was just long enough to move controls all the way back there which is right at my finger tips when I'm resting on the console

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result. Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby. Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

It's a Fiat Ragetta ha...just need to find some now

Okay someone posted a thread where they took some recessed door handles from some kinda small car and used them on our 69's they were similar to the Kingdig designs stuff but were a factory door handle on some sort of small british car or something. You push the lock button and the handle pops out then it works like a normal handle. Anyone have a link to this?

Come on guys someone gotta need this stuff lol...trades for things that go pew pew also welcome lol

Okay here goes. 1. Ford Racing Alum Valve Covers NIB..PN M-6582-Z351...$100 2. Comp Cams Hyd Lifters..PN 832-16...$50.00 3. Comp Guide Plates.. PN..4804-8...$25.00 4. Comp Alum Roller Rockers with poly locks...PN...17045-16...$150 5. Comp Push Rods..PN ...7832-16...$20 6. Comp Hyd Camshaft...PN..32-208-3..$200.00 7. Comp valve springs...PN..924-16...$80.00 8. Comp 10 degree retainers..PN..741-26..$40 Prices listed are well below Summit or Jegs etc.. Would prefer to sale all as a package deal, and if someone wants it all as package deal $600 plus actual shipping takes it.. 9. A set of used Koni Classic front shocks and used Rancho adjustable rear shocks for $50 plus shipping for all 4 of them. 10. Lokar Emergency brake pedal set up..$25. More pics upon request of other items, but like I said everything is brand new still in boxes PM or text me. 225-241-3278 Mike.

393 or 408 seems to be most plentiful and cheapest. We ran a 408 with TKO and 3.50 gears deep into the 12s with stock 351 heads and a small roller cam with full interior.

So I happen to have a set of brand new 351C comp rockers in 1.73 ratio and was wondering if I could run them on my 408W with my AFR heads? The rockers require 7/16 rocker studs which my AFR heads have. Would just like to get a little more lift out of my Little roller cam. Will these work?

Go with ABS, because you WILL hit something with it and when you do, the ABS will bend and flex, as the fiberglass will crack and break