ronz75

Yeah I'm not sure, I forgot you were looking to do an internal pump. For me I like it because it keeps fuel lines out of the trunk.

Prayers, have you thought about Glenn's performance? They will do any size an fittings you want and the lines are not in the trunk.

Yes an external pump is required, that's the only negative I see. It does have a supply and return and you can decide what size fittings you want. The line on the sending unit is not used so you have to close it off some how. Or you could order the Glenn's setup with no return and use the sending unit connection for the return.

I liked the Spectra but after reading I moved away from it. I was really leaning towards the Tanks Inc system as the total cost seemed less than Glenn's Performance. What I don't like though is the lines in the trunk, so I am back to looking at Glenn's I figure once I add the bulkhead fittings and stuff the two set ups are almost a wash cost wise. So as of now I like the stealth setup from Glenn's with a Walbro 392 pump mounted right outside the tank. But I am still working on my final solution.

Mach 1, I looked into the Spectra tank you mentioned. I found some photos of the inside pan and it just seemed like it wasn't a good solution. I also found a post somewhere that experienced fuel supply problems when lower amounts of fuel were in the tank, their solution was to fill up at half tank. For these reasons I am looking into either Tanks inc or Glenn's Performance since I have only read and heard good things about both of those set ups.

So from my looking a f150 OEM spec called for a 10 micron absolute a replacement from Advance is like $10. That's why I kinda like the idea, my heartburn now is deciding how to integrate it. Use the quick connects or use efi hose clamps for those two connection points. I can't decide.

So what about fuel filters, I see FiTech requires a 30 micron filter. What filter do others intend to run? I was looking at the filter they advertise but it seems small when compared to an OEM ford filter. I have thought about using say a filter from a 2000ish f150 (as that should last almost forever) right outside the tank then a smaller second filter closer to the motor. I feel like with the single aftermarket filter it will get clogged quicker.

Thanks Mach 1 you saved me about an hour of thinking to wire the inertia switch and relay. For the white wire I intend to connect it to the wire I pulled my 12v signal for my carb choke, the pig tail would be a great option.

Great write up Mach 1, I am not very familiar with the Russell twist lock need to look into it for possible return line options. As far as timing, I currently run a duraspark (using the small cap) with a MSD box as a trigger. I am trying to decide if I want the fi tech system controling my timing. Might run it how it is currently done just to get the system running then change timing control over. Biggest issue is phasing the distributor as I think it could become a can of worms for me.

I have been reading about using the inertia switch from a 90's mustang, that's what I'm planning. Does it serve as a roll over switch also?

Realizing I'm a stalker and not a regular poster on here I would love to be part of this if allowed. I will pay however is needed.

Good points on ensuring my fuel line is in good order. Although it's worked well over the past 6 years, the pressure from my mechanical pump is much lower. I may have to do more thinking on that one.

So is the current hard fuel line okay to use as the supply? Seems everywhere I read people route new lines, and most are braid lines of some type. Why is this? I drive my car pretty regularly so I feel the current hard line is a better option and am considering bending a new one for the return. Am I over thinking things?

From all the research I have done Tanks Inc seems to be the best option, I just want to ensure I can not worry about having to fill up at a half tank. I did find another product today that I found interesting it's called Holley hydramat. Anyone heard of it?

Thanks for the time and effort, I am in.

With the talk of a group purchase for fi tech efi I have been researching installation which has left me with a several questions: 1. From my research some install an inertia switch and some don't. Is it only required for some systems? I haven't seen one way or the other on the fi tech site. 2. What other safety interlocks are there that should be considered? 3. There seems to be several options for fuel tanks/pumps: the command center, tanks inc, Glen's performance, and spectra premium. All have benefits and drawbacks. 4. Venting the system/fuel tank. What are others plannin? So I would love to hear what others have done or plan to do. Also if there are things I have not thought of.

I have been reading about this system over the past month. I would be very interested in a group buy.

The metal channel piece that hangs on the side of the door window you will need to find used since they are not available new. The one for my passenger side cost me like a hundred buck I believe. The weather strip pieces are available new at most vendors. Good luck

The metal channel piece that hangs on the side of the door window you will need to find used since they are not available new. The one for my passenger side cost me like a hundred buck I believe. The weather strip pieces are available new at most vendors. Good luck

Not that I found I had to find used ones since my painter lost mine. Good luck finding them at a fair price.

Not that I found I had to find used ones since my painter lost mine. Good luck finding them at a fair price.

Bought the repair manual today. Thanks

Well the canister is not hooked up and there is no sign of a vacuum line anywhere near it. How should the vacuum lines be hooked up? Right now I have the line from the firewall connected to the intake manifold distribution block where it goes to from there I have no idea I thought it went to the tilt motor. Does anyone have a diagram for the vacuum lines or know where I can get my hands on one? Thanks

Trying to figure out what is going on with my tilt away steering column but can't seem to find any diagrams on the system. The problem is it does not tilt away when the door is opened. I can hear a "click" when the door is opened but the wheel does not tilt away. Does the vacuum canister in the wheel wheel need to be hooked up for the system to work? I know the vacuum line going into the firewall from the engine bay is connected properly but I don't know where it should go from there. Where should I start with this? Also what direction do I pull or push the turn signal level to tilt the column? I thought it was away from the seat but it seems jammed and I don't want to damage anything? Any input would be great.