magician

Ck pm.

Check with your painter before blasting. As mentioned it has to be neutralized proper for good paint adhesion.

Use a razor to cut the rubber on the rear glass. Put the blade between the glass and seal parallel to the glass . Cut all the way around ,peel away the rubber and gently start working the glass out from the inside. Windshield is glued(urethane) in. Very tough to get out without breaking but can be done. Harbor freight sells a tool for around 10$ that is made for that. Check you tube for removal videos.

Good question.I don't like the rubber there either. What about the barb on the pump? Have you got a cure for that already? I assume you are running a mechanical pump.

While big drums are fine on the rear, check the price out on disc setup before you get to deep in a change out. Unless your cramming big power under the hood,upgrading is really not necessary.

I'll try to remember to check my diagram tomorrow if no one chimes in. I'm fairly good on dash problems.

Thank mike....fixed my link

http://www.anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/1/7/6/3176630/69_70_hoods_v1.0.pdf First time I ever seen this. Very interesting read

Talk to chocko before you bust a move...best rebuilds around.

I like the epoxy then ss urethane plan.

Highly recommend the factory body manual from your favorite dealer.

Yup, your right....I read it wrong

All the ones(3 cars) I've removed them from had speed nuts.

Pm me if your other leads fall thru.

+1 on align proper

Don't modify it. Use the jack stand method and check for proper measurement. A little force in spreading towers is not unusual. May need to re-align fenders when done

Did you do anything to the car just prior to the noise happening? Rubbing tires should leave an obvious shiney spot somewhere.

I assume you have a coupe or vert..fb glass is different.

Peel and seal from lowes

Dump the test light and get a volt meter. I have never figured out what a test light is good for....maybe a ice pick...the light just shows voltage present...you need to know how much. With the light on the open side of the brake switch,does it dim when brakes are applied ? The switch can show proper voltage but may not be able to handle the current since you shorted it. As stated,just replace it to eliminate it as a problem.then go from there..good luck!!

Not seen it done but there is enough room.

Auto and standard trannys use different starters.my guess is u got the wrong one.

+1.....you are losing 12 v in the run position

Sbsmustang@Yahoo.com

Continuity and the measurements of exact ohms is not the same thing. It does not take into account for light bulbs,coils,ect...continuity (high ohms) of a 12v source to ground is not always a problem. Have you checked the suggested items yet? What did u find? I will ck my diagrams for the switch issue but I doubt there's a problem there. Try starting it by jumping the solenoid.