jjstang

Uh, what car

For the very same reason that caused First69 to ask that question, I'm going the dipping route too. Dip it, coat the metal with your favorite base, epoxy, pors. Then you know that all the rust, paint, fillers is gone and it's clean. It may be anal particularly if the car is not special, it can be pricy. It has its minus if not suitably rinsed and dried. But having that to start with seems worth it to me.

Have you tried to apply power directly to the horns to see if they work?

I plan on going down this road too. Don't know the answers for all the questions. But here's what I think I know. I've been led to believe that most '2001 and up 4rs have electronic speedo connections. You would have to change out the tail section to make it work with the '69 speedo. Not sure if the yoke will bolt directly to the stock drive shaft but since you have to shorten the drive shaft anyway, it would be easy to fix. But I think I've read that the joints can be switch out with joint that have different sizes on each side. That may solve the problem. I think the 4r dip stick will work. and I think you need the longer bolts. The ones that came with the 4r will work. I was told the goal is to get the tranny, converter, yoke, bolts and dip stick as a package. Which controller are you going to go with?

have you considered some graphite in the cables? Rubber seals tend to be sticky when new. dirty air blowing through will eventually coat the sticky. I would not use a liquid lubricant, it will just collect dirt and gum up. something to reduce the sticky of the rubber, again such as graphite or talcum, may be effective.

Hopefully suppliers are reading these forums. Which vendors are best at describing their products?

I've read that Phosphoric acid is used by swimming pool companies. You can buy it at pool supply cos in larger quantities and it much cheaper.

It would seem the load leveler would be a worthless with the carb/manifold plate.

Originally, I thought I wanted to avoid the electronic control box too. But when I saw the benifits of the 4r70w, I just had to go that way. There are several after market control boxes out there that take away the headache of this sway. Read this site http://www.becontrols.com/

You should seriously consider the 4r70w. hey will handle more hp in stock form and can handle even more than a aod with few a upgrades. It also a wide ratio so you'll get a lower first gear too. That will allow you to run a lower rear end gear for better highway cruising without sacrificing of the line. It requires a electronic control box, but by the time you spend the money upgrading an aod to handle equal hp it's not that much more. Plus you get the advantage to tune the transmission for our lighter cars, which you can't do with an aod. And you don't have to mess around with the tv valve. It's an easy swap.

What would the reasons be to not used the factory computer vrs the bauman control box. Thanks in advance

I read somewhere that they sell the sulfuric acid at swimming pool stores... bigger quantities and cheaper

I've seen a panel in the catalogs designed for the larger radios. Don't know if it will work for you and they are pricey, check it out

oh, and they are available as repos from most mustang suppliers

There's a harness that runs along the main harness to the headlights. Up there are harnesses that adapt it into the headlight harness. did that make sense??

Actually the a hammer works really good. A good shock to the side of the female part, pops right off. Just loosen the nuts first. It works so good, I threw away my forks..

Angel...sorry about your find, but then this might be the perfect excuse for the rebuild. My goals are similar to yours so I'll be interested in the replies from better minds. At $6,000 it seems there might be some crate engine options. I haven't confirmed if I have the original block yet, if it is then I'd lean towards a rebuild like yours. With the 3.27 gear what rpm do you expect at 70mph?

Actually, the cylinder shaped part is called the proportioning valve, used on disk brake cars. You can buy aftermarket adjustable ones many places. The rectangular block has many names, the one I use is the distrubution block. At least that's the way I understand it.

I read that Mike, but I had to check, didn't make since otherwise. But, I like the wrong dipstick theory though.

My memory is kind of fuzzy but I think I was able to slide it out the end of the door after taking off the door seal weatherstrip.

I suspect you could bypass the switch to test. It plugs into the harness under the hood by the firewall kind of behind the engine, but its easy to get to. Just trace the wire from the tranny. You would have to look a wiring diagram, not sure how the switch works. It either just needs unplugging or jumped depending.

You are checking the fluid level with the engine running??

I have been researching aod or aode conversion. Now I'm confused. I was leaning towards the aod because I didn't want to mess with the electronics. I read an article the other day, it seem to suggest that an aode with a manual valve body would not need the electronics and could still be put in drive (no shifting). This puzzles me. If the aode has no electronics how can it shift without manually shifting? The car is a weekend warrior. Will I be happy manually shifting all the time? Can that be that much difference than a regular stick shift anyway? Oh... and what the hell is a trans brake? Thanks in advance

I have been researching aod or aode conversion. Now I'm confused. I was leaning towards the aod because I didn't want to mess with the electronics. I read an article the other day, it seem to suggest that an aode with a manual valve body would not need the electronics and could still be put in drive (no shifting). This puzzles me. If the aode has no electronics how can it shift without manually shifting? The car is a weekend warrior. Will I be happy manually shifting all the time? Can that be that much difference than a regular stick shift anyway? Oh... and what the hell is a trans brake? Thanks in advance

Laying them out in the warm sun helps the carpet relax and installs easier.