jjstang

I looked at the questions section on that door. Says its unbranded and are sourced from various vendors. That sounds like a crap shoot.

Ok, I know an OEM door would be best, but finding a reasonably price door that doesn't require extensive repair is illusive. Besides, I have one of those already. So here's the question..... which are the best? I see Goodmark, dynacorn, goldstar. Are there others? I read one of them might have door handle mis-alignment issue. Thanks

Trial fitted the RS torque box, floor support and toe board. The Dynacorn two piece torque box fits like a glove, very satisfied.

This part is labeled for '65. will it work on the 69

I imagine liquid paint stripper is very messy, used on furniture. Does it have any affect on rust or undercoating?

The plan was to take the car to a media blaster then take it home and put a coat of epoxy in it. Even though I don't have any real paint gun skills, I figured most areas were not showing and other would have to sanded for the final paint anyways. Or something like that. Now I'm CONSIDERING stripping it myself but I realize this is going to be time consuming. So what do you treat the newly stripped places with as you go along. Don't want it to start rusting before I finish stripping. Still plan on an epoxy coat afterwards.

Thanks, never considered the windshield.

I bought the full floor pan. After taking a few measurements I'm wondering how to get it the car. I was planning installing the tinman subframes in first, but now I'm not sure if the pan will fit thought the door opening. The quarter window is out and this is a fastback. Will it fit??

Started cutting out the floor pan, oh so many spot welds.....................

Some peoples way of thinking is just plain sick........lol

Its been years since I did this so much of the issues I experienced, with the provider and the switch itself, may not apply anymore. However the overall difficulty is not that bad. I found it to be simple removal, clean out and install. I would test the switch with a meter to see if the switch is shorted, then go from there. But, if it was only working in certain spots, it probably needs replacing. Good luck.

I grew up with an impact screw driver. Started with the motorcycles too. It's the first tool I grab if I have tight screws to deal with. The trick is to get it out the tool before you figure out you need it. Dam stripped out heads....

Where in Texas. I'll be needing a passenger door and a drive fender....

You have two sets of the rear window. Some pieces of the front windows are missing. Not sure if coupe and fastback are different.

I want the new and improved model, please. jf

Nice video, probably has taken it off before. Mine seems to be stuck on pretty good. Can't seem to get it started. I'm afraid of damaging it. Will keep working on it, slowly.

I think I need to cut one half too. Can't seem to get in there enough to get a grip. My wife won't let me cut our's up, so I have to another......

Been told to use a can opener to remove these. I've poke at it a little but not sure exactly sure how to. Which end of the opener to use, pry from the top or bottom, and what other tricks you know. TIA

Found the stampings, its a m-code.

I've read discussions before, but thought I'd get some feed back. I have the braces that wrap the shock towers. I understand these were a big block item of which I don't have, numbers matching Mcode). Could this be something a PO could have added

Here's an update. It's finally stripped down, just a few minor things to deal with, assorted clips, j nuts, drip moldings, etc. Started cutting out metal, really testing the various metal cutting tools to see what works best. HF shears broke in about 6", but the body saw and a regular sawsall worked great. The car is set up on 8 point screw jacks. Used a laser level for the datum line. Happy to say everything is in spec within 1/16 inch. Surprising since its been hit in both the front and rear.

I didn't know Mach1s ever came with column shifters. Both of the switches pictured above are for column shift cars. The floor shifters are completely different.

If you have installed it, does it make the numbers hard to see?

I have the 69 manuals. I've only seen the 70 frame charts floating around here. The measurements are taken form different place between them. To verify the frame is squared up, are the 69 and 70 frames essentially the same?

Ok, here's my stupid question... It's my understanding when you blueprint an engine, your building/machining to the exact engineers original specifications. So once you start modifying and/or improving, how can it be blueprinted?? Do I understand the definition of blueprinting incorrectly. Sorry, I wasn't trying to hijack the thread, it's just every time I see blueprinting and improved in the same description I get befuddled.