jjstang

Thanks, never considered the windshield.

I bought the full floor pan. After taking a few measurements I'm wondering how to get it the car. I was planning installing the tinman subframes in first, but now I'm not sure if the pan will fit thought the door opening. The quarter window is out and this is a fastback. Will it fit??

Some peoples way of thinking is just plain sick........lol

Its been years since I did this so much of the issues I experienced, with the provider and the switch itself, may not apply anymore. However the overall difficulty is not that bad. I found it to be simple removal, clean out and install. I would test the switch with a meter to see if the switch is shorted, then go from there. But, if it was only working in certain spots, it probably needs replacing. Good luck.

I grew up with an impact screw driver. Started with the motorcycles too. It's the first tool I grab if I have tight screws to deal with. The trick is to get it out the tool before you figure out you need it. Dam stripped out heads....

Where in Texas. I'll be needing a passenger door and a drive fender....

You have two sets of the rear window. Some pieces of the front windows are missing. Not sure if coupe and fastback are different.

I want the new and improved model, please. jf

Nice video, probably has taken it off before. Mine seems to be stuck on pretty good. Can't seem to get it started. I'm afraid of damaging it. Will keep working on it, slowly.

I think I need to cut one half too. Can't seem to get in there enough to get a grip. My wife won't let me cut our's up, so I have to another......

Been told to use a can opener to remove these. I've poke at it a little but not sure exactly sure how to. Which end of the opener to use, pry from the top or bottom, and what other tricks you know. TIA

Found the stampings, its a m-code.

I've read discussions before, but thought I'd get some feed back. I have the braces that wrap the shock towers. I understand these were a big block item of which I don't have, numbers matching Mcode). Could this be something a PO could have added

Here's an update. It's finally stripped down, just a few minor things to deal with, assorted clips, j nuts, drip moldings, etc. Started cutting out metal, really testing the various metal cutting tools to see what works best. HF shears broke in about 6", but the body saw and a regular sawsall worked great. The car is set up on 8 point screw jacks. Used a laser level for the datum line. Happy to say everything is in spec within 1/16 inch. Surprising since its been hit in both the front and rear.

I didn't know Mach1s ever came with column shifters. Both of the switches pictured above are for column shift cars. The floor shifters are completely different.

If you have installed it, does it make the numbers hard to see?

I have the 69 manuals. I've only seen the 70 frame charts floating around here. The measurements are taken form different place between them. To verify the frame is squared up, are the 69 and 70 frames essentially the same?

Ok, here's my stupid question... It's my understanding when you blueprint an engine, your building/machining to the exact engineers original specifications. So once you start modifying and/or improving, how can it be blueprinted?? Do I understand the definition of blueprinting incorrectly. Sorry, I wasn't trying to hijack the thread, it's just every time I see blueprinting and improved in the same description I get befuddled.

I've searched the forum but they all are pretty old, thought I'd get an update from you all. There seems to be choices of the one piece part. I see Dynacorn with or without weld-thru primer and somebody else. The other seem to come in two lengths. One stops just before the rear torque box and one goes past it. Also there are now 69-70 specific part numbers. Are they really correct/different? What's the opinion of these choices.

Ok, thats funny.

Thanks for all the advise. One question. "Sounds like bacon", I have heard this comment before. I visualize, or hear depending on your perspective, a small constant sizzle. I get sizzle but I also get little pops. When I listen to bacon cooking, it tends to pop a little. I don't k now if I'm tying to hard if a small constant sizzle is not to be expected. Otherwise, I'm getting much better. Cleaner welds with good penetration. Turn the auto darkening helmet down and now I can see what I'm doing.

Thanks for the advise. The second pic with the peaks is actually the bottom/other side. I did have one blow through. I didn't think that much metal should be coming through the other side.

Perfect, thanks

I only cleaned the areas I was welding, not the whole piece. But that does bring up two question. I have a wire wheel on the grinder. After cleaning the piece, the metal is free of rust/paint, however, do see some blackish looking stains (for lack of better words). Doesn't matter how long I clean it, they don't go away. I'm using the old seat risers. Also when lapping two pieces together, is it necessary to clean all 4 sides. I'm rationalizing that when adding a new piece to the existing body, such as floor pans to rockers, you can't clean inside the rocker. In my practice, I don't always clean all 4 sides.

For the fender extension moldings. Anyone know where to get those funny looking bolts that have the little tension wire attached. Hope you know what I mean