jjstang

Hmm, that that hidden wire. Would it work to run run it up under the headliner?

I would be curious if someone figured out a more hidden route than the factory route.

Will be a great help. Thanks for your contribution.

Well Houston has been shut down and there hasn't been much to do. So I had to work on the car!! Zap in the front outer frame rail patches, radiator support and front aprons. I guess there's a bright side to everything.

How much was their quote, if you don't mind me asking.

I think sm69mach may be on to something. If I remember the latch has two latch points. If the seals are tight the second latch may not be catching. Moving it out a bit may allow it to catch. When you press on the door will it lay flat? That would further indicate it's not locking in to the second latch point.

I assume it depends on the application, but I notice that drag race cars do not run anything past the headers. If running a system would make more power or make the car faster, they would???

Mostly getting really pissed as I continue to remove paint to find out the tail light panel and quarter panels have bondo covering the rust hole in my "rust free" car.

Over the weekend I managed to find enough time to weld in the driver torque box and fit the toe board. Won't be able to touch the car till next week.

Tinman here too

I'll add something. Cut out the driver side torque box, floor support and rusted stuff, still fitting frame rail patch.

Top hole, great! That's the one that fits best, thanks

Not exactly sure what the part is called but I guess you get the idea. I want to install the trans support for alignment purposes (replacing both floor supports) When I went to bolt it in, there is two places on the drivers side of the cross-member. Which one was used with the fmx. One fits pretty easy , the other seems far off. Just want to be sure I'm suing the correct one. did I make sense?

Mine came gloss black on jade silver. Can't tell you how many times someone told me its not correct....... I've heard stories of maintenance issues with the matt particularly if you get wax on it, but I don;t know this first hand.

Just want to follow up. The 3/8 ball bur is fantastic. Got a good quality one. I took out the driver torque box and floor support in about half the time it took to do the passenger side. And it's still sharp. Thanks Bob for the tip.

I've been using the HF spot weld cutter, its hasn't worn out yet. Quite impressed actually. It likes to walk a lot even when its severely center punched. Resorted to pre drilling after the center punching, then the spot weld cutter. I seem to miss the middle a lot and the panel separators rips a holes that I have to fix. Tested Bob's method and it works really good. It worked great and its easier to get the center of the weld. The HF ball didn't last at all. I ordered a good quality ball, just wondering if it will stand up to thicker metal.

Hey Bob, Have you used those on heavier gauge like floor supports and torque boxes?

I tried, failed miserably. Ended up taking them to an upholstery shop. $50 each. I even bought the tools, watched the videos etc. It's a skill....

So what I'm gleaning from this, if I oblong the hole in the hood to fit the twist lock, and create a slotted hole in the radiator support it will work? Doesn't sound insurmountable.

I had to try out the ball bit. Pick up a cheap HF as a test. The concept works great but the HF piece lasted three holes.... Order one from amazon. There were some many choices, hope I got the best one.

Thinking of switching to the 70 hood twist pins. Do they use all the same holes?

Bob, that sounds good, since you have experience with these, where do you source them? I'd like to try them. How long do they last. thanks

Did you really get 255/40/17 to fit?? rubbing issues?? rolled??

Bump...where's that wealth of knowledge I'm use to?

I hadn't thought of that, good idea.........