jjstang

I did go to that site at first, but I didn't know what I was looking for. Now that I have put some effort into this.... I see that theirs is a T10. Thanks I do have some of the replacement 9v battery connections in the drawer. The wires appear very thin. How much current do these need to handle? Will they handle it as is? I know that's probably a trade secret...... Thanks

I know. It’s a sickness, right?

I figured someone must make those. I just enjoy fabricating solutions, it's a hobby, right. Finding the parts has been problematic, the actual size specs are elusive. Like, I see those T10 sockets but will they fit the hole correctly? The CVR does have 9v battery connects, and those are plentiful, but I haven't checked if the wires need to be resized to match the needed current. It would be simpler just to buy it......

Y'all have been a great help, now another question. Rewiring with the AAW harness. I want to eliminate the printed circuit board behind the dash, too many people complaining about the repos. So how did you make the connections to lights. Since I plan to use the stock gauges (converting the alt gauge) I'll need to make a connection to the resistor/regulator doodad (forget what is called) too. Thanks john

Oh man. That would have been too easy. Good idea

Ahh. Figured it out. TIED them back.

Whats the secret? Trying to install the motor but can't figure a way to hold the brushes in at the same time........ jf

It appears to have good clearance.

My solution

Can you actually get to the relays if needed?? I thought of making some brackets but to squeeze it in on the firewall for access. Just hopping there was a obvious solution I didn’t think of. Thanks for the suggestion

Thanks to helping me through this wiring project. Im still looking some help/ideas. I mounted the aaw fuse box as the instructions, said, top left on the firewall. Now I can’t find a spot to mount the relay block that allows access later. The wires are only long enough to go somewhere left of the steering column. Evidently classic auto air has made some changes. The instructions appears outdated. There is a relay for the compressor which requires a separate power feed, not the problem. The problem, The only logical place to mount the ecu is on the ac box behind the glove box. Some of the wires from the ecu to the servos are not long enough to go anywhere else. I’ve seen pictures on the net like that. I checked with classic auto air and they said not to put any screws into the air box, made sense, that’s why I checked. So that leaves double stick tape or glue. What did you do. Thanks again.

A electric engineer I’m not. 69nc had me blowing off the idea at first. I am using the aaw harness. Right now I’m needing grounding mostly for dash/courtesy lights and the relay block. Don’t know if if the relays are electronic or mechanical. Maybe a dozen grounds. At this point the only electronic device is the classic auto air ecu. Probably add metermatch.and I guess a new radio. I probably could deal with those things separately. It would be easier. You think this could be harmless…….

Rewiring the car. Now all the grounding places under/around the dash are covered or hard to get to. I was thinking of running a single wire to attach all the ground wires to, then grounding it somewhere significant at the end or both ends. Is there a good reason not to do this. Would 10g wire be sufficient. Thanks

Hi all. My car has a tilt steering column but its not original to the car and has never been hooked up. The manual lever works fine. The mechanism is there, except the vacuum canister and hoses, but it's just dangling there. Does anyone have pics under the dash where/how the mechanism is mounted. The Osborne exploded view didn't help at all. Also if you know how the wiring hooks up would be a plus. TIA John

Thanks so much. I was also curious about the relay block, where you mounted it. Looks like you broke it up into separate pieces??

Of course most of the older pictures are not on the site anymore...... Does anyone have pictures of how they routed the harness under the dash? TIA

So since I'm using the AAW harness, and I think it eliminates the resistor wire, I won't need the apron solenoid, right?

I'm a little confused....... Isn't the solenoid on the starter essentially the same as the solenoid on the apron? I thought I could eliminate the apron solenoid and clean up the engine bay. I intend to rid of the regulator too.

I too have a 69 mach1 with stock power disc. I experienced the same issue after I replaced EVERYTHING the last time. I’ve read other posts for power disc cars that were experiencing the same. Much focus is on the proportion & distribution block valves. Since the brakes worked before the rebuild, I never paid them much attention. Mine were pretty gummed up even though the system bled beautifully. I rebuilt those as well. That took care of the problem.

I use to go to the the parts store to press bearing on and off. None of the places I called have presses anymore. A couple of them don’t turn drums/rotors either. My neighbors hf press wasn’t tall enough to press them off. I found a 4x4 shop that would do it. Fortunately it’s not something I will probably ever need again.

Oh ya that’s spot on. The sizes are perfect and polished is a must. Now I have to wrestle between those wheels or a traditional crager look. That should give my silver jade the pop it needs.

Kyle. Can you post some more views of your car/wheels. It looks like what I’ve been thinking about but haven’t seen many examples.

Hope someone can help. There are two brackets welded on each end Mine are rusted badly. . I need to fabricate new ones but I don’t know what they look like. Can anyone shoot me a pic?? TIA

I may be wrong but I thought I was told Eaton was the oem manufacturer.

The memory fails and I evidently didn't take a pic. Anyone have a photo showing the route of the factory fuel line. lots of info on efi and or earlier cars but not having any luck. TIA