jjstang

Thanks for the replies. I was told they were aluminum. A shop removed the anodize for me. I could make it shinier but not great. I was told I could spray it with some clear paint when done.

Anyone have experience with the repo rocker molding? Mine are in really rough shape.. After a few hours on the buffer, i got about 1/2 of one worked on. pits, scratches and such are still showing significantly. I can send it out for a professional at about $60 a foot, say $720(ouch), or but repos $160 a pair at NPD. This is not a show car. Opinions??

I got mine from Johns Mustang in Houston, no shipping charges because I'm in Houston. You might need to call NPD to find out who makes their better one.

I got the dynacorn. Happy with it. NPD doesn’t label them though.

Looks right to me, thanks

Just wanted to confirm the caliper is on the right side. This was according to the part number. Thanks

My 69 didn’t have the riveted one. Sorry I’m no help

They haven’t been on this site since 2014??

I don’t know if it’s still holds true but for some reason the button itself isn’t compatible with the 69. That’s what it said in the catalog. Had to reuse mine.

I did the Ididit tilt . fits fine and fits my rimblow

My 69 has the curved one. But that’s no help for a 70.

I have the afr heads and unisteer rack. I used the Herman’s that is marketed for engine swaps. It bends tighter to the block.

I’m running afr heads, unisteer pump/rack and classic air a/c pump. Hedman has a set labeled for engine conversion. They are tighter to the heads. Cleared everything else. Putting in a 4r70w , none right now, but my fmx looks like it would fit.

You're probably on the right track but its going to need much more beefing up.

Thanks for the reply. That is what I kinda assumed looking at my old harness. I been putting an effort to eliminating wires under the hood so finding something inconspicuous is a goal. Thinking under a water bottle fastener against the apron.

Where did the factory connect the ground wire for washer pump? I rewired with AAW and it didn't provide a ground wire, no big deal. Just trying to figure out the best place to connect the ground wire.

The difference here is when you internally balance the entire rotating assembly, it includes the flex plate too. If you replace the flex plate you’ll probably have to disassemble and start over. That’s why I went external. Internal stuff can still be pseudo balanced (think blue printed). That’s the way it was explained to me.

When my engine was rebuilt, I elected to keep external balance. (They still did some balancing on inside parts but I don't know how that works) I should be able to change out the flywheel/flex plate & harmonic balancer to my hearts content and as long as they are the proper balance weight (and assuming they were made correctly) it should not be a problem. I assume your flex plate or harmonic could be defective?

Is it internal or external balanced?

Thought I'd have some fun and install power windows. Looking at the Nu-relic and electric life. My search turned up nothing current, so I'd like to get some opinions between them?? Did other versions of mustangs (grande?) or other cars (cougar?) have factory power windows that would bolt right in? TIA

It’s a skill I have to learn too. I got some quotes to polish the trim, $65 a foot! I paid them to repair some dents. He said to fasten the trim with a board to prevent warping. Hadn’t thought of that.

I think I asked that. It's different to what I have received previously.

I’d be interested. Messing with the TMI now, not happy……

Playing with my new TMI sail panels. On the back are strips of vinyl glued under a piece of cardboard. Looks like your supposed to "tie" the panel to the body??? Ya right. Getting in there to tie it seems impossible. There doesn't appear to be a place to attach the retainer clip unless your suppose to "tie" the retainer clip on?? Anyone know? TIA

Thank you sir!!