DRASTiK

I've got a two bank Mac box, top and bottom. If I ever fill it up, my plan is to go with the side locker from HF. Seems to be the same as the side locker by the major toolbox mfr's. FWIW, you might also have luck checking pawn stores. Many out-of-work techs pawn these boxes nowadays.

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I've got the doors on mine, but can snap a pic if that will help. Don't be too hard on yourself here.... been there, done that. lol

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Thanks for this. I've bookmarked it for future reference. Upgrading to 31's is on the agenda for later down the road.

Congrats on firing it up man! I've been bit by that firing order difference before too. Had an EFI fox body stang that someone put a flat tappet cam in (instead of staying with a roller) and I wasn't aware of it, lol.

TTT - Offers are welcome. This is just taking up space in the shop.

Parts arrived today. A+ rating from me. Thanks Joshua!

I've done similar things to what JayEstes is suggesting on wrecked racecars, but with the cost of a new bumper being what it is today, I'd probably just buy a new one if I was in your shoes. If a new bumper was extremely costly, then I'd try to unbend it off of the car. Also, I don't recommend trying to unbend it while it's still on the car. That may cause you to bend your new tail panel with the bumper.

Congrats on the engine. I'm currently waiting for my 347 to be completed and will be running a toploader as well. I had similar clutch questions, so I'm glad you asked. As for the tooth count on the flywheel, I believe it's only importance is so that it matches up with your starter gear. Maybe someone can verify or correct me on this?

My apologies. This is for a 289/302.

EDIT - Found a crack in this intake while taking close-up pics. I am no longer selling it, as it's not in the condition I originally thought it was. I wouldn't trust it on my car, so I won't sell it to anyone for use on theirs.

As mentioned above, it is imperative that if you do this clearancing yourself, that you get all of the shavings out of the block. It would probably be wise to take the block back to a machine shop for a good bath before assembly.

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According to that article, it's not required for a 331, but CHP does it anyway. Maybe that's because they prep their blocks to accept a 347 or a 331 assembly. It also could be the difference between a 331 with a 5.4 rod and one with a shorter rod/longer piston. If it were me, and I felt confident in the shop's abilities, I'd have them go ahead and do it. Worst case scenario - if it's not clearanced, then you can always do that yourself later. All you're doing is trimming the bottom of the cylinder. Not something that requires special machine-shop tools or equipment.

Do you feel that the tear was your fault, or do you think maybe the material was just weak in that spot?

I was planning to go, but unfortunately my plans got changed. This will be the 2nd year in a row that I'm not able to attend..... was hoping to find some deals on disc brake conversions, and maybe some aftermarket seats there.

Sorry for the late response. I dug out that latch assembly this weekend, but the shaft is no good. It's been twisted and broken off in side the latch. Sorry bud.

What kind of leaf springs are they? Standard, mid-eye, reverse-eye? 4.5, 5, or 5.5 leaf? EDIT: Nevermind, I looked on ebay and answered my own question, lol. Sorry about that!

Sorry for the delay in posting. Just wanted to say that I received the heater case and it looks great! Thanks!

First thought to me is throw-out bearing.

When I'm dealing with a situation of totally empty fuel lines, I prime the carb with carb cleaner or gasoline (fill the bowl(s)). This will allow the engine to start and run for a few seconds, and while it's running on that prime, the pump will draw fuel from the tank and fill the lines. This way you don't need to worry about wearing the starter out and killing the battery. I generally do this at the beginning of every race season after my race car has been sitting for a while and the fuel has all gone back into the fuel cell. A see-through fuel filter also helps to know when fuel is in the lines.

I'm pretty sure I have a used oem latch assembly from a coupe one in one of my bins. I'll dig around and look this weekend.

Subscribed to this one. Looking forward to the rest as I'll need to do both front seats in mine. This helps me figure out if I'll do it myself or just pay to have a pro do it.

I suppose the true definition of 'engine' may differ from one person to another. Some view a built engine as a shortblock, others view it as a long block with heads and maybe an intake. Others feel that a complete carb to pan setup with bolt on accessories qualifies as an 'engine'. Just depends.