DRASTiK

I'm thinking that it might be easier to use coupe quarters and then insert the scoops into them. As for widening the quarters, that process is the same on either version of the quarter anyway. Just a thought.

OOOOOOoooo.... shiny! ;-)

if you can bottom out the hex portion of the fitting on the valve, then it's possible you need a deeper fitting and it's not mating the flare to the valve itself tight enough to seal. Just a thought.

if there's no pressure in the air shocks now, I don't think the ride height will change from the swap at all, to include sagging.

I'm almost finished with body work myself, and i have a completely gutted car with quite a bit of new sheet metal (simiar to you, Mike). Unless you're looking to cut out shock towers or do other major structural changes to implement your suspension, then it's a toss up, as to which order to do things. My rough plan is to finish the body work, finish the undercarriage, then get the car running on its own power (drivetrain, brakes, wiring, exhaust). After that, I'll finish up some details (headliner, windows), then paint. Lastly, I'll finalize the interior.

Just another version of what others have said above. I'd definitely stay away from the air shocks. Since you've been riding with 0 psi in them already, it seems safe to say that they're not needed, and a 'real' shock should be used in their place. One that's meant for shock absorbtion instead of setting ride height. As for the brand, that's a matter of personal preference with regard to ride quality/performance handling.

+1 on the wheel balance question. is this a rhythmic bounce where it starts, stops, starts, stops in a consistent rhythm?

dang... that's quick! I just assumed that whomever it was had to get out of it after getting squirly or blowing up. The mph decreased as he went down the track. Good to know that it wasn't a blown engine though, heh. I've never had a chance to drive or ride in a sub-11 second car down the 1/4. Must be an absolute blast!

That last slip shows that you only won that pass by a measley 7.x seconds.... Better tighten up! Congrats on the improvement! Need a new video now.

Very clean. I like the circle station indicator. Hell, I'd pimp that bad boy in my stang ;-) Ahh yes.... too bad I can't remember the inspiring thoughts I had during the drinking though.

I like the seats, although I have my doubts that the rear seat will work without a ton of work. My advice would be to just have your existing rear seat reupholstered to match the front seats. Faster, easier, and probably cheaper. Then after you're finished with the seats, sell the Hyundai rear seat on ebay or CL to recoup some $$ and also get it out of your way. Not that it's a big deal, but the seat buckle that's attached to the front seats won't work unless you have a matching belt buckle. Keep us posted on the progress, and from a vet - thanks for serving!

Little more info about leafs, just in case. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/leafsprings/

Careful. That's how some serious resto's begin.... :-)

the flying clay from dirt track racing is going to chip paint on any surface. Not to mention other paint damage from 'rubbin'. Just my 0.02

Car looks awesome!

Here are a few

Agreed 100%

That's just an all around good story. For both you and her. Things like that are part of what our obsession is all about! Hope you have a speedy recovery!

you have to change your options in the user control panel to automatically save sent PM's in the 'sent items' folder. It won't do it by default. This does not mean that they were not sent out, just that you don't have a copy of the sent item saved.

Congrats! Sounds like a good weekend. New parts, quality time (with the car), passed tech, and even got to play!

I ran a middle seat belt in the rear of my previous 69 coupe (back when the kids were small enough to all fit back there). Used the existing mounting points that the other seat belts already use. No issues.

I've used a B&M Megashifter on a C4 in my previous 69 coupe. No problems, as long as you properly route the cable through the floor (no kinks or burrs rubbing it). I also used one in my dirt track race car (chevy TH350 trans). No issues there either. It's a simple setup and can be used with automatic or manual valve bodies, stock or modified trannys, etc...

Ha!

Keep us posted please. I'm still interested. Nice Job!

If a longer coil wire isn't a concern, have you thought about mounting the coil on the inside of the firewall?