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DRASTiK

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Posts posted by DRASTiK

  2. Posted · Report reply

    So, I've started assembling the car, and I'm having an issue with the gas cap.  It's the original standard twist-on type (came with the car).  The problem is that it fits so tightly on the filler neck that the outer portion of the twist-on cap actually scratches up the paint on the tail panel when rotating it. 

     

    I've tried two separate filler necks - the one that came with the car and was likely used with this same gas cap, and a new replacement.  No difference made with either.

     

    That pretty much leaves the issue as being with the thickness/shape of the replacement tail light panel.  I find it hard to believe that it's thicker than the original was, but I don't have the original to compare to anymore.  It was trashed.

     

    To add to the confusion, I did not disassemble the fuel system from the car, a previous owner did. Therefore I don't have a way to know exactly what was being used before.  The car came with one filler neck and one gas cap, so I'm assuming this is what was on the car previously. 

     

    Both filler neck flanges sit flush with the back of the tail panel.  Even if I remove the gasket, the cap it is still too tight.

     

    Without modifying the existing tail light panel, I figure this leaves me the option of using a pop-open cap instead of a twist-on.  Does anyone have any other suggestions? 

     

    I don't have pics on me right now, but if anyone wants some, I can take some this evening.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Just my opinion of course, but when speaking of the 'wrote a check' guy, I'm referring to those folks that simply purchased a finished car and have no clue what they own or no interest in the hobby.  They just like the attention of driving a cool car. 

     

    I'm not referring to those that restore a car using your wallet instead of your labor. 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    This bracket was mounted through the floor just forward of the gas tank on the underside of the car.  I had to remove it to get the new fuel tank to sit flush in the trunk.  I have two questions.

     

    1. Is it supposed to be there, or is it an addition that a PO made?

     

    2. If it's supposed to be there, what is it for? 

     

    If I'm going to keep it, then I'll need to modify some things to make the tank fit properly.  If it's not needed, I'll just weld up the holes and move on with the tank install.

     

     

    Thanks in advance,

    Dave

    post-13164-0-01397700-1442927538.jpg

    post-13164-0-58881200-1442927565.jpg

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Agreed.  Perfect example is that 2016 vette.  As a judge, I'm not going to find any flaws in a car that was purchased 6 days ago off of the showroom floor.  It's a nice car, but the lack of flaws doesn't mean it should automatically get a higher score than the vintage ride sitting next to it that has required time, money, sweat and blood to restore.  "They don't make em like that anymore."

    Rsmach1 reacted to this

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Based on the other things I've found when going through this car, there's no telling why some changes were made to this thing. 

     

    At some point, someone didn't believe the bar was thick enough, so they welded bracing onto it to beef it up.  You can make out some of that in the above pic.  They weren't subtle about it either.  The bracing is thicker than the bar itself was originally.

     

    I have already ordered the bushing kit mentioned above, along with other new hardware for the linkage setup, but this explains why I can't find any reference to the 'internal sleeve' anywhere. 

     

    Thanks for the replies.

     

     

    post-13164-0-06698400-1442335488.jpg

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I hope my step son learns this lesson soon.  In the past 6 months alone, I have pulled two R22 engines from his yota pickup that have holes in the block large enough to put my fist through.  Both are because he was too impatient to park the truck and fix oil and water leaks.  He's 18 though...he knows it all.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    NIce!

     

    I was asked "on the spot" to be a judge at a car show recently.  Apparently one of the scheduled judges had a last minute conflict and couldn't come.  They gave me two rows of cars to judge (there were around 250 cars total in the show). 

     

     

    Of course, there wasn't ONE SINGLE STANG in my rows.  Most of them were corvettes (one of which was a 2016 and was purchased 6 days prior to the show). 

     

    There were some cool cars though.  I gave the best score to a barracuda restomod.  The owner had done most of the work himself.  It was clean, put together well, and it was a driver instead of a trailer queen.  I didn't give as many points to those who just 'wrote a check'. 

     

    Hey, they asked me to judge so they get my judgment :-).  The show was a fundraiser at a local VA hospital, so it was all for a great cause.

     

     

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Aside from the reports of the blades coming off of that style of fan (thankfully, I haven't experienced it myself), there are also some concerns about the blades becoming straight at high rpm, and therefore not moving air at that speed.  This would only be a potential issue if you were doing a lot of hi-rpm driving, such as road racing though.

     

    For regular driving duties, it will probably work fine.  I'd make it a point to regularly check the rivets and blades on that fan though.  If you ever detect any play in them, replace the fan ASAP.

     

    NOTE: I'm referring to the style of fan pictured in the OP that was (maybe still is) commonly available in auto parts stores for years.  Some were cheaply built.  I'm not referring to an OEM style fan.

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