DRASTiK

Semper Fi Devil Dog. If u get a chance, take a look through the album in my sig. I did quarters and a door skin. Patched the other door etc. Album needs updating badly but my pc isn't agreeing with the album app. Anyways it gives an idea about what's involved.

Rotisserie is definitely the best way to go. I put mine on a lift and get under it that way.

I used it in my trunk area, but do not intend to use it on my floor pans. I don't know of a reason that you couldn't other than the fact that you won't ever want to try and remove it. I also used an aerosol form of bedliner to coat the undercarriage. It's much thinner than the brush-on stuff, but protects against rock chips, etc. a bit more than paint. If you decide to use it on your floor pans, keep in mind that you'll need to keep it out of threaded holes (like the seat belt bolt holes, for example), so you won't have issues installing the bolts.

that book value seems extreme to me. How can they claim the car to be worth several times what it cost new? Where did that number come from? I can't remember exactly what I paid to register my stang after filing for abandoned title, but was miniscule.

Hey Proto, did you clearance the block for the 347, or did you have the machine shop do it? I'm currently saving for a stroker kit, but have the roller block in my shop collecting dust. If you did it, I was just curious how involved it was. My understanding is that it's just a small amount of material from the bottom of the cylinders, but I may be way off.

I recently did one of the corners on my coupe. Had to get it from a parts car. Judging from pics, the fastback corner piece will probably not even come close to fitting a coupe.

Sweet! Thx

I need a heater box (blower motor housing) for my 69 coupe. Anyone know if the 70s the same? Mine is a non a/c car. Do you have one for sale?

I used duraglass on mine. That's some strong stuff.

There's a scoop on there? I don't see it........... ;-)

I'm envious. Congrats on the progress. Looking good.

the 'clicking' that you're not feeling that holds the knob up is built into that mechanism. I think it's going to have to come out for this to be addressed. It may need replacing.

Might want to test that low cylinder again. Maybe the tester didn't seal in the plug threads and allowed some air out, which caused the low reading.

I don't believe you need to have power locks for remote-start to work, but if you want to use the keyless entry portion, then you'll definitely need them.

Looking good bud. You're already light years ahead of me and I've had mine for two years. Just a quick heads up, the moderators may move this thread to the Project Progress Forum.

There's also the boneyard at CJPP, as seen in a below thread. They may have the clips. http://www.cjponyservice.com/salvage-yard/

Thanks guys. Just wanted some others thoughts before I proceeded. Metal it is! After all, the welder was just starting to accumulate dust for the first time in years. Can't have that now can we... ;-) This weekend, I'll take a very close look at the area again. I have a feeling there will be more patching involved than just the collar, but we'll see. Again, THANKS to Junior for his pics. They helped me to avoid a MAJOR headached down the road.

And just when I thought I had ran out of metalwork........this happens. I'm just glad I found it before final assembly. This site saved my butt yet again.

Well the car is already gutted so getting under the dash is no big deal. Is there a benefit to replacing with metal vs the plastic? Common sense says 'work smarter not harder' but experience says 'do it right the first time'. Thoughts?

I was browsing through Junior2561's thread in the progress forum and one of his pics brought something to my attention (hope you don't mind that I'm using one of your pics Junior), so I went and looked at my coupe and sure enough, I'm missing the collar that goes around the hole in the lower cowl panel. I can't see any remnants that it ever existed and the area (best I can tell with flashlight and extendable mirror) does not appear to be rotted. Without that ring in place, will rain water flow into my heater box and cause a ton of problems? What is the proper name for this collar so I can buy one if needed. I assume it is used to draw fresh air into the HVAC system? Thanks in advance, Dave

Lookin like a solid car from what we can see so far. Hope that AZ car is rust-free for ya. It'll save you a ton of time, money, and headaches.

was the tranny initially filled while the car was already on ramps? Wondering if maybe the converter hadn't filled up and the pan area was so full that it came out of the vent. Just a thought.

Good luck with the resto. Where are you located? Maybe you're close by another member who could help if needed. Also, just a recommendation for future reference, unbolt torque converter from engine as opposed to pulling trans off of converter. Could damage the front pump seal and you wouldn't know it until you put it all back together and fire it up.

Yeah. Lemme know how that works out for ya.:001_smile:

complete loss of oil pressure could be a sign of big trouble (as said above), meaning worn out bearings, or it could be an issue with the oil sending unit, wiring, or the gauge itself. As for rod and main bearing replacement, if you pull the crank, you will be staring at the remaining rod and main bearing halfs that you haven't already removed, so replacing them while you're in there is a good idea. My personal opinion is that since you're interested in it, you should take this opportunity to learn. Dissassemble the engine (remove the intake, lifters, and cylinder heads along with the other things you're already planning to remove) down to the block. Pull the cam and pistons/rods. Make sure you label everything, expecially lifters, pushrods, and piston/rod combos. Send the block to a reputable machine shop to have it inspected, cleaned, machined if necessary, and have them replace the cam bearings. Then when you get the block back you'll know it's ready to go. Rebuild the engine yourself using the manual (new rings, bearings and possibly other parts depending on the amount of machining, if any, the block needed).