DRASTiK

NPD - 1st choice CJP - 2nd choice (or if I'm only ordering a single inexpensive item, since shipping is free) I've received dozens of orders from both of these vendors over the past few years.

Definitely some proud moments for your both, and some unforgettable memories. When you get a chance - check your PM please.

I swapped from 2.79 to 3.25 gears (top loader). It's a great compromise between cruise-ability and acceleration on demand.

I had a few that were too tight to install without 'extreme' force. I filed down the pegs a bit and that resolved the issue for me.

I'd call Dan Williams. I recently went through him for a rebuild kit back in December. He's very knowledgeable and helpful. He's not much of an 'internet' guy though, so a phone call is best. His work hours are typically from noon until midnight..ish Eastern time.

I'm running Hooker Aerochambers. Love em. They aren't so loud that you can't carry on a conversation in the car at idle or at cruise. When you stand on it though, they wake up and sound great.

I went this route. My advice - steer clear, unless you're interested in spending many days/hours untwisting, shaving, and filling fiberglass to make it fit half decent. I probably have 50 hours in the trunk lid alone. I had to shave over a quarter of an inch off of each end cap to keep them from impacting the trunk lid. I had to slice up the trunk lid itself in several places, untwist it, and then re-glass it back together. It was a learning experience, that's for sure, but with the cost of the parts themselves on top of it - it makes for a very expensive and time consuming project. Not my pics below.

Are you using a timing light with an adjustable dial? If so, make sure the dial wasn't accidentally moved. It may be worth trying a second light just to make sure yours isn't giving erratic readings. I have one you can borrow, if needed. I also have a new set of points out of a stock distributor for a 69 302. Not sure offhand if they are the same as a 351, but you're welcome to them if you want to toss them in the distributor to remove the pertronix from the equation. They've never been ran. I pulled them out of the new dizzy and put in a pertronix III.

That bracket works fine with my double pumper.

It's definitely breathing better now, but it may not be a huge improvement from the driver's seat feel. If you want to get the most out of your new parts, look into a cam swap and some good flowing heads to compliment your new pieces, and you'll see a huge difference. The stock heads may be acting as a bottleneck.

Sounds like a pretty good buy. How does the underside of the car look?

Congrats! Now to begin the debugging stage - ugh.... I'm in that stage myself, and it's not my favorite part. You finally get the vehicle on the road, and take it for a drive, only to find some (hopefully just a few) little things that need to be tweaked, or adjusted, or some odd noise you need to track down, or some odd electrical issue. You two seem to have done an excellent job so far, so I'm sure there won't be too much 'backtracking' to do after you enjoy that first ride. There's already salt all over the roads, and the snow is coming tomorrow. Schools are closed today, and maybe they will be on Monday too. Sounds like a good time to fire up the heater, grab your son, and get the car road-worthy :-).

The stainless pieces that surround the door/windows for a coupe.

I just installed a ford trac lok, 3.25, and 31 spline axles a couple of weeks ago. I originally had a 2.79 open diff. Big difference, and I'm very happy with it. I originally was going to go with 3.50, but like you - I want to be able to take it on the highway sometimes, and 3.25 was a good compromise. So far, I have no regrets. I'm running a 347, Trick flow heads, custom grind cam, ProSystems carb, etc. with a top loader. I may see the drag strip once or twice a year, but my priority is to enjoy driving it.

Does your AC system have an option for recirc, or fresh air? If it's on the fresh air setting, that will allow flow through the vents at speed.

That's because it IS your cluster. I found the pic doing a Google image search, and it traces back to a post you made on this forum :-).

I just did mine a month or so ago. I used the 3M 08509 also. My gasket came from NPD. I put the gasket on the window dry, inserted the rope. Placed it in the opening and pulled the rope through to seat the gasket. Then I went back and put the 3M product inside both the outer and inner rubber of the gasket from the outside. The car was out in the rain all day on Christmas, and no leaks yet. Crossing fingers.

I sent him my stock gauge. He converted it and sent it back to me. Quick turn-around too. His provided instructions give you all of the necessary info, but specifically for the cars like ours that use the circuit board, the picture above is the only other thing I needed. I'd use his services again for sure. I used bullet connectors on both wires so that they can be easily unplugged when pulling the cluster (I used the lower dash ground instead of the one in the pic above). Sadly, I've had to pull the cluster twice since then (working out electrical gremlins), so I'm glad I put the connectors in.

I don't believe he makes one for a 69 coupe yet. Hopefully there's enough demand out there to persuade him to do so :-)

Nice!

His instructions will direct you to do this, but there is no pic in the instructions:

I can't answer your tire question, but you should be able to get the RPM/gearing information by using one of the speed calculators on the net. Here's one: http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

Scrolling down the forum list, almost at the very bottom there is a classifieds section. Here's a direct link to the parts section http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/forum/43-parts-for-sale-wanted/

Thanks for the input guys. Your descriptions sound accurate to what I'm experiencing. I tried rotating the gears, but I couldn't find a magic quiet spot. For reference, I'll attempt to attach a video of what I'm referring to. I'll give the replacement hinges a try, and if that doesn't work out, I'll try another route. https://www.youtube.com/embed/qae39LvGqD8

Having the same issue with both doors. This isn't about bushings or door alignment, but it's about the loud BANG noise that occurs when the gears begin to move the spring in the hinge. Lubing the hinges helped some, but not much. Has anyone dealt with this before? I'm trying to determine whether or not I need to replace the hinges, or if I can repair them. If I'm going to repair them, how can I compress the spring to work in the area where it contacts the body of the hinge? Sorry if this is a silly question, but when searching for related topics, all I can find are discussions about pin and bushing replacement (which I've already done). I have a set of dynacorn replacement lower hinges, but after looking at them I don't have a lot of faith in them. I'd rather fix my existing ones if possible. I'm thinking it'll require some welding, but I'll need to find a way to compress or remove the spring first. Without doing that, it's difficult to see the area that the spring is making contact with. Anyone dealt with this before?