69R-CODE

Sorry I am just getting back to the forum. I still have had no luck getting it out. This car is a takeover project. The car was almost complete when I got it. I put the motor and trans in the car two years ago. I started it up and broke the rebuilt engine in but never connect the drive shaft to move it around. A few weeks later and we sold our house and moved. The car sat in storage. I started back to working on it a few weeks ago. The car would not go into gear. It would grind even with the clutch press in. The toploader is a brand new one from David Kee's. So, I figured I just put something together incorrectly. My plan was to take the trans back out and see what was happening.. Now I cant get it off the bellhousing. I have cut some pieces of all thread and welded nuts to one end. I am hoping I can back the transmission off that way but I am not very optimistic.

Hello all, I have been trying the last 2 days to remove my big input big output toploader from my car and it will not come out. I have removed all the bolts, cross member, linkage, clutch fork, ect... It will not move at all. I only have about 1/4" of space between the bellhousing and toploader. I am afriad that it has seized to the pilot bushing or I had misalignment issues when installing it and the clutch disk splines / input shaft is binding. I have read about trying to remove it with pry bars, or jack nuts /screws, or even just trying to get at the pressure plate bolts and remove it that way. I have a old school lakewood blow proof bellhousing and there is only access through the small clutch fork hole. What would you all do to try and remove it. (Please dont say pull the engine) It is a 428CJ with long tube headers.

The ones in the video were the original gauges from the car. Since then I have switched to dakota digital ones like these.

The car was purchased in 1994 by my father (he was the second owner) and was involved in a terrible accident in 1995. Since it was an original 428CJ R-Code, he kept the car with hopes to restore it one day. Years passed and he did some work here and there but we never got around to taking it seriously. Finally, in 2009 I asked him if I could have the car and I started putting her back together again. It was finished in Spring 2015.

Finally got around to putting a video together of my build. It is far from perfect but i hope it helps inspire others to not give up and stick with it!!! https://youtu.be/dLxdFgJS_ds

Nice cars everyone!! Here is my ride.

Raven, black is going to look killer! Always go with the original color. My car was an original gulfstream aqua car. Cant wait to see your car when it is done.

I am at a point with my car that I can say that it is finished. I know there is no such thing, but it is time for me to post the final results. I want to thank all of you for helping me ( i think I have asked about 1,000 questions on other threads). Thanks to all!!! Now its time to enjoy her!!

For now (until I can save up a few $'s) I am going to just bypass the tach. I bought a replacement pertronix Ignitor and put my stock coil back on and I am getting 9 volts to it while the car is running. So that I don't Have problems again, where is a good place to connect the pertronix to a switched 12 volts? I get nervous cutting and splicing wires under the dash.

Went home on my lunch break and installed the new ignition switch. Car started and stalled immediately. For the heck of it, I disconnected the tach and made a jumper pigtail. Car started up fine and ran like usual. Looks like a rebuilt tach is in my future. I now have a couple of options. Should I have the tach just rebuilt or upgraded to run with MSD ignigtion? (Suggestions on who should rebuild)? Or Should I take the opportunity to update all my gauges while I have them out? Dakota Digital / Autometer/ Ect... Although, I will have a hard time justifying spending $1200 when $200 will fix my problem. What do y'all think?

I installed the pertronix per the instruction included. Also this is how CJ Pony parts shows how to do it (not that it means much). https://youtu.be/RWgw4jGF5MQ?t=2m27s Like I said, It has ran without problems for 6 months. I did consider that at the time of install but had read that the igniter 1 could run with pink wire.

I am going to buy a new ignition switch today and see what happens. If the resistor wire is also fried, should I bypass it and tap into a switched 12V source and run a new wire straight to the Pertonix?

I just checked. I am only getting 0.50 volts to the tach with the key in the run position.

What is the best way to test it or bypass it to rule it out?

Hello all. I have a new electric problem I was needing some help with. I have upgraded my points distributor to the igniter I magnetic pickup and flamethrower coil. I have been running that set up for about 6 months now without any problems. The other day the car was running fine and just died (like someone reached in and turned the key off). I tried to start the car and it fired up and immediately died. I repeated this about 10 times. I tested the voltage at the coil in the run(on) position and got nothing. It is getting 12 volts in the start position. The car will start and run fine if I connect a jumper wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive side of the coil. Also wanted to mention that when I hot wired the coil, I noticed that the tach is not working. Not sure what my problem is. Could it be... 1. Blown Fuses (I do not see any obvious problems but I am thinking of replacing them all to see) 2. Resistor Wire (Pink Wire) has gone bad. (Dont know how to check that) 3. Tach is fried ( It is the orignal tach and could be toast) 4. Ignition Switch has gone bad (It is the original switch and could be toast) 5. Solenoid is bad ( It is brand new ) Before I start replacing a bunch parts has anyone had this issue??

I just did some reading on another forum. The PI intake is 1/4" taller than the stock intake. Add my 1/4" spacer and that makes the 1/2" difference that I am seeing.

Police Interceptor Intake Holley Carb. Model 4160, 750 cfm 1/4" spacer OE Air Cleaner OE Shaker and base

Thanks...The bottom picture is before and the top is after. I guess am asking is the taller height that I have now in the top picture too tall? It now measures 3 inches from the hood to the top of the shaker.

I have been running my 428CJ without a carb spacer for the last year. I have been having some hard start issues after the car gets hot. I have read that it could be carb related?? I purchased a 1/4" phenolic spacer and it appears to make my shaker stick up too far through the hood (see before and after pics). I have been searching the threads but cant find one that answers my questions. 1. Do I need to run a carb spacer? (if so is 1/4" too big?) 2. How far should the shaker stick up through the hood (does mine look to tall)? Thanks.

I had to replace both sides on my car. I took the frame measurements from the shop manuals and gave it to the body shop that was restoring my car. They had the car on a jig. See attached.

Update. Got the shock style compressor. It worked great and was a very safe tool. However, Once I got the coil spring compressed, the upper control arm does not line up with the spring saddle. I have the spring installed correctly (or at least I think I do) but the two bolts that go into the UCA are not even close. I compressed the spring as far as I safely could and still would not work. I even unbolted the UCA from the shock tower and pulled it back to "make it work". One bolt would line up and the other would be off a bit. Even if I were to force the issue, the two bolts that would go through the shock tower would not have enough threads sticking out to bolt that side down. Anyone have this happen? The spring saddle and UCA bolt up fine outside the car. Could I have the spring not seated correctly up at the top?

I went ahead and purchased this today. Not going to try and test fate twice. http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-73-Mustang-Shelby-Maverick-Coil-Spring-Compressor/261195370724?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33890%26meid%3D669368ff688b4f9eb527d19381608097%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D281429833260 The ebay link also has the instructions on it.

Update. I went to autozone and got the OEM Coil Spring compressor and started working on this job over the weekend. I have seen several different ways people use this type compressor. I placed the fork up on top of the shock tower and the hooks as far down as they would go. Everything seemed to be going fine until i heard a pop noise. I looked in the fender well and saw that the coil spring compressor had got in a bind was in a horrible looking angle attached. I was scared to death. Luckily I got it uncompressed and off without hurting myself or the car. Since then I have replaced the upper and lower control arms and spring saddle. It is now time to put the spring back in and I dont want to repeat what happened over the weekend. Questions: 1. Am I using the wrong type of compressor? 2. Was the cause of the binding due to the way I was using the compressor. Looking at the photo the hooks are on the same coil. I didnt install it that way. 3. Should I purchase the shock style compressor? (attached).

I appreciate the responses. I do believe I have a bad alignment. I also think the bushings are worn out and possibly the eccentric bolts have moved. I think I will try and tackle it in my garage and then go have the alignment re-done at a more reputable shop. I have already bought the stock replacement upper and lower control arms. I will most likely go ahead and get the Eccentric Eliminator Kit as well. Besides a spring compressor are there any other specialty tools needed? I see some people use a pitman arm puller and some people use a hammer. Any better ideas?

Hello all! When I restored my car I did not buy new upper and lower control arms. I cleaned up and painted the original ones and put them on. They seemed to be in good enough shape at the time and I was low on $$$. I had the car's front end alignment done before it went off for paint. The car has now been on the road for about a year now. It is a complete nightmare to drive. (Has been since day one). The car is hard to steer when taking corners and sometimes the tires will squeal when taking a sharp curve at low speed. I just thought it was because it was an 50 year old car. I have notice that the car sits funny. Sometimes I will drive it down the road and park it and the front tires will have positive camber and then other times a drive it it looks like it has negative camber. I ran my hand across the tires and both front tires have uneven tread wear. I took it to a garage to have it looked at recently and they told me my bushings are bad in my control arms and need to be replaced. They quoted me $500 labor to do the repair (if I bought the parts). The thought of me paying that much makes me sick. I am thinking about replacing them myself. I have seen a few videos online and it doesn't appear to be that hard of a job. I am concerned about the coil spring compressor (I have heard horror stories). Questions: 1. Has anyone had these issues with camber? 2. Is the bushing diagnosis correct? 3. Is changing them out at home something I should do or let the front end alignment shop do it?