danno

I made my kit.  I know that 20 years ago when I did my mod, the kits did not work. They all needed custom modification, so I made my own.  It is real simple and has worked fine for 20 years.  Get creative, make your own!

I am trying to imagine the work to just do that exhaust system. If everything else would be a complicated and detailed, this must have taken a long time. Looks good, now go have fun!

The Ford Factory radio is hard to beat.  There is a slight  audio improvement in some of the newer radios, but in a 69 Mustang you will never be able to tell it unless the motor is off.  You will also be able to pick up weak signals from distant cities better with the new radios. But if you just want something for driving around town, the old Ford radio is the way to go.  The trouble with the 70s era Ford Factory radios is they all require external amplifiers and better speakers to get the good sound.  So if you want a cheap radio with good sound but no fancy features, go with an old  factory one.  It is fairly simple to add a  MP3 player input or  bluetooth receiver to the old factory radios.   I have done it on mine and for others in the forum.  Good speakers will be needed no matter which radio you end up with. A nice 70's radio is about $50, some are cheaper, some are more. External amplifiers are another $50; some are cheaper, some are more.  A bluetooth or MP3 input can be installed in it for maybe another $50.   A good  case of beer is only  $30, so go for it. Get them all and get it done!

Also, if it helps, the old factory radios will not play rap music.  They are made for smooth grooves and funky soul.  Maybe some Alicia Keys, Santana,  or Marvin Gaye. Turn it up, enjoy the ride.

remind me of what an AF gauge  and AF ratio is?  Anti Foul? Anti Fungus?  Anterior Federation?

I have mine set at about 20.  I understand you can advance it until is starts pinging, then back if off a few.  Do a search on timing advance, there has been a lot written in this forum about it.

I fixed the rattle in mine, got a bigger amplifier for the mp3 player.  REM and Bowie fixed my rattles....
 
Sorry, had to say it.

Remmm
I found this one on fleabay, it seems reasonable.  Make an offer on it.  I am tracking it to see how much it sells for. 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-OR-1970-MUSTANG-MACH-1-DASH-PANEL-WITH-CLOCK-STILL-ATTACHED-/192105235094?hash=item2cba5d4296:g:QKwAAOSwr~lYo0GQ&vxp=mtr

You might check with West coast classic cougars.  It looks like they do not have any today, but give them a call and see what they might be able to get.
 
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=C9W%20track

I do not believe they have state laws down under, but we have forum laws that are of higher power...
 
As for the Cavalier J rack, I have it in mine. Randall's rack bases his system on it.  But if I bought  a J car rack, I could not put it in my car.  It has been modified by randall too much.  I thought about buying an extra J car rack to use in mine, if it ever failed, but it will not work.   I wonder if I have some pictures, that might help. So if you were thinking of bolting a J car rack into your car, it might be possible, but it will be a lot of work.  I would think that other racks might be an easier fit. Before I bought mine, I would go to a junk yard and look at the racks on cars to see if any would be an easy fit. Maybe you could do that and see if you could find something close.
 
 
I once knew a woman with a great rack and a perfect fit, but she was too cavalier...

I have a vert, and wondering why this is necessary?  I am not aware of any issues in mine.  Do you have Big block motors? 

BillC, I have bought and sold parts on this forum. So when you are looking for common parts like the washer items, put a notice in the Buy sell parts page.  Also look to see if someone is parting out a car, it happens often and they would probably have what you need.  These parts should be easy to get, you get them for lower cost, and you help someone else get rid of extra parts.

I am kind of with Ashlees on this.  I have done a "load analysis" on a car with a factory alternator, and the audio amplifiers and brighter lights can be taken care of fine with the old factory setup.  I have the huge audio amps in my car, along with AC, halogen lights, power windows, and a factory alternator.  Been driving with it for 10 years without a problem. I do not have one, but an electric fan can put that into question.  If you have an after market 1 wire alternator, then the odds are it has a lot more amperage, probably 100 amps.  100 amps is plenty to run everything you could ever need, unless you do something like electric power steering. 
 
A couple things to also consider.  Do you have AC?  The Factory AC clutch takes a lot of amps, but aftermarket compressor clutches are a lot less. So consider if you do not have AC or have an aftermarket AC compressor.  And one more thing.  If you switch to LED lights, they take about 10% of the amps that conventional lights take.  The only place the lights make a significant difference is in the headlights, though.  So if you ever switch to LED headlights, that completely removes  the need for anything larger than a factory alternator, no matter what other gadgets you have on your electrical system.
 
But I could also understand wanting to switch.  Just take your time to do it, there is no hurry.  By the time you make the switch, maybe the harness you need will be available.  It is also possible midlife would make one for you.

I have a intermittent wiper switch and control taken from a 1990 Ford Truck.  It works perfect in the 1969 to 1973 Mustangs and cougars.  No wires to cut, it just plugs into the existing harness in your old Mustang or Cougar.  Turn it clockwise, and it works like a normal wiper switch.  Turn counterclockwise, and it is in the intermittent operation from 1 to  20 seconds.  This has  been tested and 100% guaranteed to work perfect.  If you want it, I will include the black knob for no charge.  If you want the chrome knob, add $5 to the price.  The Chrome knob is from a later 1970s, Ford, it is not correct for 1969 or 1970 Mustang. 

The bracket on the front side of the radio,  the shafts that the radio knobs are on attaches to this bracket.  It is a simple piece of stamped steel.  CJ has them for $28 plus shipping and tax, but I know someone has one in their junk pile they want to get rid of.

I have a intermittent wiper switch and control taken from a 1990 Ford Truck.  It works perfect in the 1969 to 1973 Mustangs and cougars.  No wires to cut, it just plugs into the existing harness in your old Mustang or Cougar.  Turn it clockwise, and it works like a normal wiper switch.  Turn counterclockwise, and it is in the intermittent operation from 1 to  20 seconds.  This has  been tested and 100% guaranteed to work perfect.  If you want it, I will include the black knob for no charge.  If you want the chrome knob, add $5 to the price.  The Chrome knob is from a later 1970s, Ford, it is not correct for 1969 or 1970 Mustang. 

This is obviously not original to early Mustangs, but it a great feature to add.  Rear view mirror from 1990 Ford.  When connected, both lights turn on dim when the door is opened or interior lights are on.  You can also use the switches on the front to turn the lights on bright.   I see these on ebay for way too much, but want to recover my costs, so the price will be $49, including shipping. 

I need a radio bracket, the one in front the knobs get attached to.  NOT the plastic one, the metal one.   CJ has them for $26, but somebody probably has one in their junk pile.
Thanks
Danno

Would I be able to lock the front tires with Baer?  Not that I would want to, but with my factory disc brakes I cannot lock up the tires. I understand that could be good to not lock them, but I am not sure I am getting max braking. 

You should not need to change the flasher if only the dash lights were changed to LED.  That is needed if the tail or front lights are changed to LED.
 
I wonder if you have a short in the circuit that is doing this?  You also have a dash light connector that goes to the dial light for the radio.  With the key switch in Accy, short between the power to the radio and the power to the radio light.  This will force 12 volts on the dash lights, bypassing the fuse block and light switch.  If the lights work with this, then it is probably the issue with the fuse block as others have mentioned.

Hey Chelby,
If you are still looking for your column, give Tim Baxter a call.  He has a junkyard in Shell Lake Wisconsin with over 300 old Mustangs.  Mention my name, Dan from Minneapolis with the 69 convertible and the work he did on my car in 1987 in the grain elevators near the Univerisity of Minnesota.   See if he as any tilt columns.  I think his number is 715-468-4451.  Do a google search for him, and you will read all sorts of stories.
 
I also know of a guy in Arkansas that has a bunch of Mustang parts, bought my 69 tach panel from him.  I don't think either of these guys bother with ebay or try to sell their stuff.  I will get his name tomorrow.

The odds are it is your light switch.  Put a plug in your cig lighter and monitor it with a voltmeter. If it stays at the same voltage while your lights flicker, then it is probably the switch.

Typically the hidden antennas need to be in a piece of glass, like the windshield. There is a tradeoff between antennas and signal strength.  Signal strength is what the radio station is broadcasting.  The further you get away from the radio station, the weaker the signal strength. Weaker signal strength stations can be received fine by a good antenna.  The bottom line is that if you are  always in a city listening to local stations, a hidden antenna will be fine. All a hidden antenna needs to be is a wire across the dash.  One thing that you could try is it to put a temporary hidden antenna in and see how it works. All this takes is a wire from the antenna connection to across the top of the dash, maybe by the defroster outlets.  Drive around and see if that gives you good enough reception for your stations.  I could set you up for something to try, if you want.

What I did for the Bluetooth  option on the radios is to leave everything appearing stock. The radio turns on in a normal AM/FM radio. But you turn the radio off and back on real quick with the volume knob, and it switches to be a Bluetooth receiver.  The volume, balance, tone, and fader are all controlled just the way they are as a radio.  If you want the radio back, you just turn it off and on again, and you have your normal radio again.
 
I also do can do a seperate MP3 audio cable from the radio that you plug into the headphone output from an MP3 or CD player.
 
The sound quality on the factory radios from the 70s is typically very good, as long as you use a small external amplifier.    I can do this to your radio, or one that I have. I do not do this as a business, I do not make that much money for the time I put into it. I am just helping out those who might want it.

Just to throw another option, maybe consider a modified factory radio? How about a 1970s era factory radio with MP3 and/or Bluetooth?   I can easily add a mp3 or Bluetooth input to a factory radio from the 70s.  The radios are cheap enough, and put out real good sound.   You typically do need an additional external speaker amplifier.   I have done the mod for others on this forum.   This way you can keep the factory look.
 
I have added mp3 to dozens of radios, but bluetooth is the latest thing I added to mine and others.  I can listen in my home or car,  playing the music from my tablet.   If I want the normal radio, I just switch off the Bluetooth, and the normal  AM FM radio returns.   The 1970s AM/FM radio with Mp3 input or Bluetooth is about $100. Just another option to consider.