danno

I put in a box on the driver's side fender because next to the battery was too busy and jammed together. I removed the cover so you can see inside. It has a bunch of fuses on top, conections, circuit breakers, and 3 relays. ACC1, ACC 2 are relays that turn on with the key in accessory. One relay is for items I want on when the ignition is on. I might redo the whole thing and add the relays for my audio amplifiers. headlights and horn.

Do you have a caliper ( micrometer)? You can measure the diameter and then use a chart to determine the size. Another way is to go to a local hardware store and clip a 1 inch section of wires they have that are close. Compare what you know from the sort sections of wire that you clipped to what you want. For both methods, check the wire, not the wire with the insulation.

The fact that your horn does not work tells me you have the turn signal switch wires mixed up. The horn should have nothing to do with anything you did. if it worked before and not now, that tells me you have the wires in the "half moon" round connector in the wrong locations. All it takes is 2 to be in the wrong place, and that could do it. The easiest thing for people ( like those at AAW) to suggest is to simply replace things until it starts working, rather than diagnosing the real problem. If you had diagnosed the real problem, you probably could have saved the cost of a new switch and flasher. Part of the trouble is that most of us on this site have no idea of the wires in a AAW harness. The connections and colors could be completely different from an original Mustang. From your description, I would guess you have a short somewhere in the brake lights that is blowing the fuse. That will also cause the turn signals to stop working. I would disconnect the turn signal switch and make sure all of your wires are good first. I could explain how to do it with a factory harness and bulbs, but with AAW and LED taillihgts, I am not sure where to begin. Maybe others can help. In the mean time verify all the wires to your new switch are in the right places. It seems like you have at least 2 in the wrong place.

Whatever AAW used, it might not be large enough for your alternator. According to the national electric code, for 95 amps, you need a #2 wire. Wires will create heat when you have current through them, and from the NEC, if you run 95 amps continuously through a #2 wire, it will get up to 60 degrees C, or 140 degrees F. As an engine compartment is already quite hot, that might not be enough if run continuously. So you should probably use a #2 wire with insulation good for high temperature. You would be much better running the wire direct from the alternator to the battery and not splicing a heavy wire like that into the AAW harness.

Wait a minute, stop everything. We know the seller, he is on the forum! It is lilmike. I know he talked about selling his, and this is it. I would say ask him, he should be trust-able. That raises my confidence that he is not hiding anything. The price seems more reasonable now that we know the seller. Ask him if it is a real Mach 1 or if he has the Marti, maybe he is monitoring the forum?

I am not sure, but a whole new motor seems like a lot of work to fix valve seals. I understand the whole motor could be tired, but the 302 is overall very reliable. I have one in mine, put new 351 heads on it 5 years ago at 180,000 miles. If you are happy with the performance and usefulness of a 302, I would fix the one you have and keep your car original. If you want more power, change to something else. Changing to a crate motor is probably about the same amount of work as reworking yours. There is always the option of just fixing the heads.

This is interesting, what are the flaws you see? I noticed the emblem on the hood scoop not original, and that implies a lot of other stuff might not be Mach 1. Also has modifications like an aftermarket radiator and air conditioner compressor. Nothing wrong with that, but it needs to be considered. I also noticed the underside covered with some texture finish and painted black. It looks fine, but that could be covering some serious flaws. What did you see? Would you think if this was a real Mach 1, and the body was very good ( no repaired damage) or perfect, that the price could be reasonable.

The one you pointed out looks great, but so much can be hidden. If it really is an original red Mach 1 and everything is perfect, it seems like the price is reasonable. Maybe a bit on the high end of what the car would get in other parts of the country, but maybe correct for where it is. Is it a true Mach 1? Does it have a Marty report? What is the body like? What are the factory options? What are the aftermarket features? I really would question the details when it is listed as a "Coupe" The seller is really missing knowledge or does not know what is going on. It obviously is a fastback pretending to be a Mach 1 or a Mach 1. In general, any old car will require work if you plan on driving it. The first step is to know what you are getting into. These cars are not like going to a dealer and buying it new. If you find one that has had most things upgraded or repaired ( it is never everything), and the body and details are like you want, then pay what you think it is worth. You can get an idea of what they are worth at several sites, including this one. If you are serious about a car and want opinions, you can ask this forum. If you want advice on this particular one, I would ask again with the subject line something like " Need advice on what you think the value of this car is"

Disconnect the relay and put a voltmeter + on the red wire to the battery. Put the minus from the voltmeter on the amber wire. Push the trunk release button, and the voltmeter should jump up in voltage for a very short period of time. If you do not have a voltmeter, use a 12 volt light bulb between the +12 v and the violet. Press the trunk button and you should see the bulb flash on.

That piece in my 69 vet is 102cm long, and has 5 holes. I do not think this has the correct profile to be the same.

When you manually grounded the coil to the battery neg and had good spark, try grounding it to a good ground on the engine. This will tell you if the engine is grounded correctly. The problem could also be the points or condenser. I am not sure if this works, but connect the coil to a spark plug instead of the distributor. Then open and close the points and see if you get spark. This bypasses the distributor, but checks the points for proper connection. Randy, will this work to check the coil and points without using the distributor.

Coils are a likely place for intermittent problems. It sounds like you changed the coil, though. If you changed the coil and the problem still happens, then the second chance is the wires going to the coil. One idea is to install a test wire from the coil to inside of the car. Monitor the voltage on the coil with a voltmeter. See what the voltage is when the car runs, and see what it is when the car does not work. The paper clip trick works well, but it is a simple test of the system for a very short period of time. When the coil fires 4000 times a minute, it will heat up and react differently.

I am sorry, I did not see this reply. Do you still want it? I still have it. Send me an email to dj747@hotmail.com.

I think you got that radio from me. Make sure to pass on my name to the new buyer in case it ever breaks. The work I did on it is guaranteed for as long as I am available to fix it. Danno

The first two previous pictures are before, after ( on the wood table), and the last 2 photos are with it apart.

OK, I did it on this one. We needed to get the heavy gauge wire in the center for a 69 connector. I actually think it works quite well. I after I pull them out, I re-insert them with new black silicon. They are in very securely, could be even better than before ( because of the new silicon). 1969_Mach, if you want it, you can have it. It will probably work fine for you. Danno

You might try putting a jumper wire between the battery and the high side of the coil. Do this only when you know it does not work normally, and then do it for only a few seconds. Doing this will bypass the ignition switch, tachometer, resistor wire, and all dash wires. I have tried this and it proved my fault was in my coil. In my case, as soon as the coil warmed up, it would stop working. I tried my trick when the coil was cold and it showed that it worked. I connected the coil back up to the engine harness, and started the car. It ran for 8 minutes and died. I then connected 12 volts right to the coil, and this time it would not run. I replaced the coil, and it has been fine for years. So the next time your stops working, put a wire between your battery and the coil, and see if that works. You need to do it quickly, when the coil is still warm, to confirm that is the problem. This might not be it for you, I am just passing on what I found in mine. The coils stop working after they warm up.

I am sorry, I did not mean you did it, but that you know it can be done. Maybe you did not know that it can be done? If you did not know about this, then it is a new trick. It can work well to achieve the results, but it might not be as perfect as the factory connection. I tell you what, I will try it on this one in the picture. I will re-arrange the wires to be correct. I also want to see how well it works.

this is what I have. from what i think, the large wire is in the wrong location. One of the tricks that can be done is to pull the bullet connector out of the rubber support. The wire comes with it, they will pull out sometimes easily, sometimes not. Then rearrange the wires ( or even solder new wires to the bullet connector) and glue it back in using black silicon glue. I am guessing Randy has used this trick. It could be done to put the large wire in the middle.

I have one, but the colors are not quite correct. If you don't care about the exact colors of the wires, it would work. Which end to you need, the one that goes to the alternator or the one that goes to the harness?

I would think fiberglass would work. Test it first. On the inside, sand off all finish, and apply your fiberglass in a test strip. Let it cure and see how well it holds. Maybe drill tiny holes in the metal, something for the fiberglass to grab on to. Maybe put tiny screws in the holes, more for the fiberglass to bond to.

Generally this is a sad point of life, but as we age we get shorter. This could work in your benefit. Maybe in another 20 years you will fit fine in the car?

There were 2 on some models. All had the idler at the top left of the compressor, some had one between the compressor and crank. That long span between the compressor and crank can vibrate and make noise. If you need the one at the top, I have one. How does $5 plus shipping sound? I can get you a photo.

I have a 1970 Bendix power brake booster I want to get rid of. I have no idea if it works. I bought it 20 years ago when I did not realize it will not work in a 1969. It would be great to send in for exchange on getting a new one. If you want to buy a rebuilt one, they will typically charge $200 extra if you buy a rebuilt one and do not have one for exchange. Buy this from me and sent in for exchange and save some. I know the rebuilders (like West Coast Classic Cougar) will buy it from me for $25 to $50. I will be putting this on fleabay for a higher price if it does not sell here. $40 plus shipping. email me at dj747@hotmail.com. Thanks, Danno

Instead of cutting the car, maybe there is a way to cut off the track on the bottom of the seat that moves it back and forward?