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Everything posted by danno

  1. somebody must know, or be able to tell me where to find it?
  2. The disti was changed years ago, and I am not sure it is correct. What is the correct centrifugal advance slot width for a 1969 standard 302 automatic? It should have a C9AF-n disti, but the Ford shop manual does not specify the slot width. The book says 12 to 16.5 degrees advance at 2000 rpm with vacuum disconnected. It also has NA for total centrifugal advance, but 14 seems reasonable. I am using an 18L slot, which looks to be way too much! I should be using 8L or less ?
  3. This is the plate you are missing. It is a simple piece of flat steel with 3 holes in it. You could copy the one on the driver's side and have it made. Use hex head shoulder screws and locking nuts instead of pins. Search for them on McMaster Carr web site.
  4. I am trying to figure out what you are missing. Is the upper arrow pointing to the hydraulic piston connection, and the lower is where the piston body connects? It does not look right. I think the plate that is missing would be easy to make, and the pins can be replaced with bolts and locking nut. I will see if I can get photos of mine.
  5. I am selling my tilt and tilt away column. It includes all the parts you need except for some parts available in standard non-tilt columns. It is listed in ebay, look for the listing by dj747dj747. I need to pay for my own car upkeep, so it is priced high at $1400. I will give a $100 discount to anyone from this forum who whats it and you pay by check without going through ebay. Look at the listing for all photos and details.
  6. I can easily get you dimensions of a stock 69 tilt column if it helps. I have a spare.
  7. I am curious about the 87 F150 column. Does it have the same "guts" as a 1969 column? I am speaking of the knuckle that tilts and the U joint. I would doubt it does, but one never knows. I have tilt in my 69, and I keep my eyes open for spare parts.
  8. Another option is to move the non-tilt column up. If you have rack and pinion, there is a u-joint at the bottom of the column and you can do this. There might be spacers holding the column
  9. Which electric choke is best for a 2100 carb on a 302? I was using one from a 1978 6 cylinder carb. I do not know if it makes much difference? Some will heat up faster than others. I never drive my car when it is colder than 40 degrees, so I would want one that heats up fast.
  10. The previous message had one of my better quotes. Say nothing.
  11. There is almost no parts in common between a tilt and non-tilt column. So if you want to do it, you have 2 choices. Aftermarket (Ididit) or ebay. I see 1968 and 1969 tilt columns on ebay all the time. Not sure about 1970, but they might be easier to get because they did not have the "break-away" feature the 68 and 69 had.
  12. I do not have them. Too bad, the salvage yard I go to will sell them from the 1980's for $1 each. Nobody wants them. If I was going there in the next week or so I could pick some up for you. maybe someone else can
  13. I will need to check. I am not sure if they are the exact ones or not. I will look tonight.
  14. Do you want the exact ones for a 69/70 Mustang, or would you accept something close?
  15. I found mine, are you still interested? I have one with both tabs intack, and one with one missing. What color wires do you want on it?
  16. I found the stamping on the side of the carb with the size. All autolites have it stamped on the side. That makes it easy, nothing to measure. For 30 years I have been running with a 1.23, and that could be the problem with poor gas mileage and overheating. I still have the 1.14 that was removed 30 years ago, I will rebuild it and put it back on. The jets with the 1.23 were 50F, I will insure the 1.14 has the correct jets. If this fixes it, it is great knowledge for others. All 2100 carbs are not the same, there are probably a hundred differences. Venturi and primary jets are the largest hidden difference. Thanks, I will follow up with results. I want this fixed!
  17. carb with 1.14 inch venturi, stock 1969 302 auto
  18. I have an automatic, so maybe 1.14 inch? That is what I read on another discussion on this forum. Do I measure it with a caliper across the plates that open with the throttle? If that is true, all 3 of the carbs I have are large. The smallest is 1.43. Another question... there is a place where the mains inject to the air. Are those little holes supposed to be completely above the throttle plates when at idle? Mine are a bit below it, so it looks like I am injecting into the air even though the plates are closed.
  19. I have had poor mileage, and it could be because I have the wrong 2100 carb in my car. What is the correct venturi diameter of a stock 2100 on a 302 in 1969? I think I have one that is too large. I have 3 of the carbs, and I am guessing the smallest one is correct.
  20. glad it helped! one time out of a hundred I make a suggestion that really helps.
  21. If you have the one pictured, what do you need it for?
  22. I might have an extra 3 pin plug and switch if you need it.
  23. You might be able to fix the shake by installing a stiffner plate under the mirror inside the door. My car did not come with the factory side mirror, so I installed a plate on the inside of the door that the mirror bolts to. The plate as a good size surface area and mostly conforms to the contour of the inside of the door. Some JB weld glue filled the places where it did not perfectly conform.
  24. Someone has done a lot of work to remove the 6 banger and install a 351. With the 6 banger is probably had a C4 tranny. Does it have 4 or 5 lugs on the front hub to connect the wheel? I would guess that they thought as long as they were going to all that trouble, install power brakes. It would not make sense for a dealer to do it. The 6 bangers were so light, you did not need power assist.
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