danno

I am pretty sure that in 69 they had a idler pully below the compressor. Mine did not have one, but I added one to stop vibration in the belt. They had a problem that was fixed in 1970 on the 351C and on the 302 by adding a idler below the ocmpressor.

I am pretty sure that in 69 they had a idler pully below the compressor. Mine did not have one, but I added one to stop vibration in the belt. They had a problem that was fixed in 1970 on the 351C and on the 302 by adding a idler below the ocmpressor.

I have never had any problem lifting whatever way I want. One wheel, both wheels, from under the midframe, on an axel, or anywhere else. I also open and close the doors while doing it, with never a problem with the door. But I have a 100% rust free original frame and body. I would think if your car is solid it is nothing to worry about, I certainly have never seen a problem with it in 20 years of lifting it.

I have never had any problem lifting whatever way I want. One wheel, both wheels, from under the midframe, on an axel, or anywhere else. I also open and close the doors while doing it, with never a problem with the door. But I have a 100% rust free original frame and body. I would think if your car is solid it is nothing to worry about, I certainly have never seen a problem with it in 20 years of lifting it.

With the key switch off, disconnect the alternator wires by unplugging the connector. Now see if it squeels when running. If it still squeels, you have a bad bearing. If it does not, you have a bad or misaligned belt. You cannot be 100% sure with this method, though.

With the key switch off, disconnect the alternator wires by unplugging the connector. Now see if it squeels when running. If it still squeels, you have a bad bearing. If it does not, you have a bad or misaligned belt. You cannot be 100% sure with this method, though.

Following up on Racer's comments, it appears your parts are all from a newer car or cars. Newer means that the 351W was not used, it was a 351C. So the odds are none of the parts can be used.

Following up on Racer's comments, it appears your parts are all from a newer car or cars. Newer means that the 351W was not used, it was a 351C. So the odds are none of the parts can be used.

Before you try to start it next time after it has been sitting, pop the top off the carb and look at the gas in the float chamber. I will bet $2 that it is bone dry. The gas in the chamber is leaking out somehow. It is pretty easy to pop the top on it, it has 4 screws and the air cleaner screw, and it comes right off.

I would think the condenser should be fine. I also would think you could use the condenser on your new system, it should work with either. The only thing you must do is replace the o rings on the places where it attaches. Contact the people selling the new compressor or a local AC shop, I will bet it will work with the new system.

These suggestions are great. It sounds like I could do it with a kit, but the 30 to 40 bigperm spent scares me a little. The shop I got the estimate from can do it in one day. I have a top on the car now that is not in too bad of shape, it leaks a bit and the side rails that go between the top and the frame on sides are in bad shape. It could last another 3 or 4 years, it has been on for almost 30 years already. Yes, I did say it is about 30 years old, I guess that is not too bad for an everyday driver 4 months a year. Any other suggestions will be appreciated, Thanks Danno

It is time for me to consider a new convertible top. There are kits available in the $300 to $400 range. One local shop will install a whole new top for $1200. How difficult are the kits to install? How good are the kits? Are some kits better than others? Other suggestions?

It almost makes you wonder if some part was installed wrong in the rebuild. One part might be blocking the flow of water, not allowing it to cool. But the thermostat is an easy thing to try. The shroud only makes a difference if you are going slow or stop and go driving. If you take it on the road at 60mph, would it heat up then? If it does not, then it is a radiator problem.

Actually, the ones from the later 1970's put put much better sound than the 69 one, so you will do fine with it. As I mentioned, if you want an auxillary MP3 input on it, I can do that or tell you how.

As mentioned, it seems like you have a different problem than the alternator. One of the first things to do is to moonitor the voltage when you are driving. Get a good voltmeter, one that will read to a tenth of a volt. Hook it up to 12 volts that your radio is connected to. I will bet the voltage to it drops when you rev the motor, it is not going up.

For the taillight chrome, I think some came without it. All Mach1 had it, and it was also a feature with the exterior decor option on any car. So if your car was not a M1, Boss, or did not have the decor option, I think it did not have them. My vert had the exterior decor so it has them.

You need to start with a voltmeter. Check the voltage on your battery first. It should be between 14.0 and 14.6 with the motor running. If it is not, your charging system is not good. If you have this voltage and your lights are still dim, you have a bad ground wire between the battery and chassis. To test for this, but your voltmeter + (red) lead on the chassis, maybe on one of the screws by the voltage regulator. Put the - (black) lead on the - termninal of the battery. Then turn on your high beam headlights. Your voltmeter should not go above 0.1 volt. If it does, you have a bad ground. The ground wire goes from the back of the motor, in back of the valve cover on the passenger's side, to the firewall. It is a big black wire about 8 inches long. See if it is attached good.

The $150 price for a true 1969 AM/FM is almost too low to believe. A true 69 did not have a balance slider knob under the buttons for balance control. I also think true 69 radios also did not have a fader between front and rear speakers. If it is a true 69, that is a very good price. I have the factory AM/FM in mine. Just about any AM/FM radio between 1970 and 1984 will work fine in a 69 Mustang. I have a couple if you are still interested, and I live in Minneapolis. You can actually touch and hear it before you buy! I have also modified many of these older radios for an auxillary MP3 or CD player input. I have one right now on ebay. You can play your mp3 through the stereo so you can adjust volume, balance, etc, with teh knobs on the radio. If you search my threads on this site, I described how to do it last winter.

Was there also an ashtray on the back of the center console? My console has a square hole in it, I assume there used to be an ash tray in it.

I have Randalls, and have not had a problem. My guess is the leak is not related to the hose problem, but it could be. If the high pressure line was connected incorrectly to the low pressure side, it could have put a lot of pressure on something not capable of handling it. That misconnection could have caused the problem. It is too bad about the wrong hose connection problem, he should have known what the correct sizes were. Is there a chance your hoses were wrong?

It sounds like you got the wrong cvr. The one for 69 and 70 Stangs does not have any wires connected to it, just snap terminals like on a 9 volt battery. The same snap terminals are on the flexible ribbon cable.

It sounds like you got the wrong cvr. The one for 69 and 70 Stangs does not have any wires connected to it, just snap terminals like on a 9 volt battery. The same snap terminals are on the flexible ribbon cable.

That 2100 carb might not have an electric heater on it. Mine did not. Does it have a wire or a single connection place for a wire on the black side of the choke controller?

That 2100 carb might not have an electric heater on it. Mine did not. Does it have a wire or a single connection place for a wire on the black side of the choke controller?

I have been questioning my factory power disc/drum brakes for years, trying to get better stopping ability. I must have read a dozen threads, and no real answer. I cannot lock up my front wheels with the system I have, and I should not need to spend huge money to get the factory system to work like it was originally. I have tried all the tricks, new pads, new flex lines, new master, rebuilt wheel cylinders, etc. I was chatting last week with a older local person who knew a lot about brakes, and he mentioned that the 69/70 Mustangs have a dual diaphram vacuum booster. In other full size Fords, there was enough room to put a larger diameter diaphram on the booster, so that worked fine. 1971 thru 73 Mustangs also had a much larger diameter single diaphram booster. Because of size limits, in 69 they used a dual diapham, which is why it is smaller diameter and longer from front to back. The problem comes from what happens if only one of the diaphrams in the booster is good, and the other has a leak. You will get some stopping ability improvement, but not total. The usual check everyone does when they step on the brake with the engine off, and keep the foot on it while starting the engine. You can feel the pedal go down further if the booster is working. But if one of the diaphams is working and one is not, this test is not effective. Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? I am tempted to buy a new booster, just to see if my assumptions are correct.