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danno

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Everything posted by danno

  1. In 1969 they did not bother turning on the AC when you were in defrost. There are no prongs on the vacuum pods. They did turn on the AC only when the control lever was in the AC mode AND the fan was on. This wire goes between the fan switch and the control arm switch. In 1969, you needed to have the fan on for the AC to work. If you had the fan all the way off and the mode selector in the AC position, the compressor would stay off. I checked my schematics, and green is the correct color for it to go from the fan switch to the control arm switch that turns it on when in AC mode. You will find another little prong on the fan switch probably.
  2. I also had the same issue with my car, and it had power steering. After tighting the steering box, rebuilding the power drive and replacing all the tie rods and associated components, the problem was better but still present. I took it to an old alignment shop in town that specializes in old cars, and they said that is just the way they were built back then. They were built with slop and everyone accepted it. Today's cars are so much better, so you think something is wrong with yours. The truth is, it could be as good as it gets. I did not feel safe driving it that way, so five years ago I installed a power rack and pinion system, and the problem is completely gone. So the bottom line is that you either accept it after the suggestions mentioned, or go for the rack and pinion system. Just my 2 cents worth. Dan
  3. I also had the same issue with my car, and it had power steering. After tighting the steering box, rebuilding the power drive and replacing all the tie rods and associated components, the problem was better but still present. I took it to an old alignment shop in town that specializes in old cars, and they said that is just the way they were built back then. They were built with slop and everyone accepted it. Today's cars are so much better, so you think something is wrong with yours. The truth is, it could be as good as it gets. I did not feel safe driving it that way, so five years ago I installed a power rack and pinion system, and the problem is completely gone. So the bottom line is that you either accept it after the suggestions mentioned, or go for the rack and pinion system. Just my 2 cents worth. Dan
  4. I assumed in my previous post that your car does not have power windows presently. If you have power windows presently in your car and are looking for replacement motors, they are easy to come by and any of the years mentioned in almost any Ford will work.
  5. I assumed in my previous post that your car does not have power windows presently. If you have power windows presently in your car and are looking for replacement motors, they are easy to come by and any of the years mentioned in almost any Ford will work.
  6. I assumed in my previous post that your car does not have power windows presently. If you have power windows presently in your car and are looking for replacement motors, they are easy to come by and any of the years mentioned in almost any Ford will work.
  7. I have power windows from a 70 cougar in my 69 Mustang, they went in very easily. The problem is you need more than just the motor, you need all the mechanical stuff that goes with it. The power window motors themselves on all Fords between about 1965 and 1990 were all the same, so the motor itself will work. The problem, again, is the mechanical fixtures that allow the motor to work with the window and door. The odds are that it will work, but might require some slight modifications. Good luck, Danno
  8. I have power windows from a 70 cougar in my 69 Mustang, they went in very easily. The problem is you need more than just the motor, you need all the mechanical stuff that goes with it. The power window motors themselves on all Fords between about 1965 and 1990 were all the same, so the motor itself will work. The problem, again, is the mechanical fixtures that allow the motor to work with the window and door. The odds are that it will work, but might require some slight modifications. Good luck, Danno
  9. I have power windows from a 70 cougar in my 69 Mustang, they went in very easily. The problem is you need more than just the motor, you need all the mechanical stuff that goes with it. The power window motors themselves on all Fords between about 1965 and 1990 were all the same, so the motor itself will work. The problem, again, is the mechanical fixtures that allow the motor to work with the window and door. The odds are that it will work, but might require some slight modifications. Good luck, Danno
  10. Go for the intake manifold gasket, That sounds like the only thing left. It can be leaking from the underside and starting fluid will never get to the leak. I am not sure if this is like a Windsor, but the bottom of the intake with them is where the lifters are, the same atmosphere as the crank. Maybe pull the dipstick and see if there is a huge vacuum on it? If there is, the vacuum from the manifold could be leaking into the crank and lifters.
  11. yes, there is a vacuum canister, it should be mounted in the inner fender on the passengers side. Under the hinge for the hood. The valves inside are a complicated mess, the drawings perviously attached show a lot. Good luck, Danno
  12. I thought about adding my 2 cents. You had a question about alternator output voltage being zero. An alternator, spinning by itself and not hooked up to anything, will never produce any voltage. A generator will, but they have not been in cars for a long time. Alternators require an excitation voltage, and they can get this from a battery, even if it at 6 volts. So you must have an alternator hooked up to a battery for it to work. I have the old system in my car, with a 60 amp unit and seperate regulator. It has worked flawlessly for a very long time. Unless you have done something to the car to require a larger alternator, the need for it might not be there. Brighter headlights, solid state ignition, and stereo amplifiers do not put that much more load on the alternator to justify the 100 amp units. I have them all in my car, including power windows, and I have no problems. So there is my $.02.
  13. I did the swap and found it easy to make my own. I did not need a torch or welder, just cut the right peices of iron and bolted them together.
  14. The location for where you add the fluid is on the pump. There is a rubber filler plug on the pump, all you do it pull it out and you will need a funnel to fill it up. I had to rework my system, and I was able to do it without bleeding the air out. It will do it on it's own, but you have to keep topping off the fluid in the reservoir.
  15. I have decided to go with the standard Ford AMFM radio. I can interface my MP3 into it with a FM convertor. Cassettes are ancient, and CD's are also amost ancient. The sound with an old radio is fine, and I have found that all those cute features on new digital radios are not all that necessary. You can find old Ford Radios all over on ebay for under $100. Buy from a reputable source with a high score and you should not have any problem. Besides all that, you keep the original look!
  16. Did you test the 5 volt supply with it hooked up in the car and when the gauges are not working? I still think that is the problem, it is the only common item between the 3 gauges that could cause this. Dan
  17. I can understand the frustration, but there is always an explanation. You have some good suggestions already, but I would suggest a couple more ideas. Temporarily connect 3 wires to the voltage regulator you have on the back of the PC board (film). One of the wires should be under the screw where it connects to the housing, this is a ground wire. The other 2 wires should connect to the spring clips on it that are like those on a 9 volt battery. Then install the assembly in your car, turn on the ignition, and measure the voltage on the 2 wires connected to the spring clips. Use the wire connected under the screw as the - input to your voltmeter. You should get +12 volts on one of the wires and the other should be 5 volts for an average. I say 5 volts as an average because it will go up and down in voltage. If you do not get the 5 volts on the output, start by disconnecting the leads going to the temperature and oil sending units. You can do this by unplugging the 3 lead connector under the hood that connects the interior wires to the engine wires. The 3 pin connector is in back of the carb, by where the accelerator cable comes out of the firewall. If you disconnect this and you still do not have +5 volts, you either have a short on the +5 volt line or the voltage regulator is not working. I have heard some of the aftermarket regulators are junk. The OEM products were very robust, a good design. The suggestion from Flight96 about the cardboards under the guage posts is very likely where the problem could be, check that. Good luck, stick with it, and resist the temptation to buy all new gauges. Danno
  18. The box you removed was a Ford Solid state ignition module used from about 1978 to 1990 in almost all Fords. There were different versions of it, but it was used with an electronic pickup in the distributor instead of points in the distributor. I am using one in my car to replace the points for electronic ignition. Bare wires are sometimes difficult to replace. The reason they are bare is often from overheating because something was connected wrong. The wire acts like a fuse and heats up, melting the insulation. Can you see a color on the wires or where they go?
  19. Just to throw in my loose thoughts, I had a 302 w AC and no clutch. I added clutch and fan from newer car I got from a bone yard and it fit perfectly, though not original to the car. Clutches can be either thermal or speed functions. The thermal locks when the temperature gets to a certain degree, and the speed fan locks at lower fan speeds. My guess is the speed locking fan is more efficient because when you are driving at highway speeds you do not want the fan to be working.
  20. To the reply to Max Power, have you ever driven a R & P converted car? I could come over and let you see what it is like. Your opinion might be of value because you seem to be comfortable with the old system. If someone satisfied with the old system would see the value of a new system, that could say a lot.
  21. I had a factory power steering system and I really did not trust in driving in traffic. I am in Minneapolis and frequently drive in freeway traffic. I tried to get my factory system perfect by replacing all the parts and after all that it was still sloopy steering. I didn't try any fancy alignment tricks, though. To me the biggest advantage of R&P was to get rid of the play in the steering wheel. I used to drive at 60mph on a stright freeway and the wheel could move 2 or 3 inches and I would still be going straight down the road. That is just the way cars were back then. The cost of R&P is high, but the cost of an accident is always higher. I put in Randall's Rack system, and have been so glad I did. If you are only driving in a small town without traffic and concerns for maneuvering, then I could understand keeping it original. The only thing I do not like is the rack system does not have as much wheel correction when you go around a corner. If you went around a corner with the old system and let the wheel go, the wheel would correct back a little bit to keep the car going straight. The R&P systems do some of this, but not as much.
  22. The motor is in a 69 Galaxie. Of course there is not way to know the condition, but it looks to be original to the car. I have a 302 in my vert, and I am planning on getting the heads off it just in case I need them for my car. The rest of the engine is available, though. If anyone nearby is interested, it is at the U-pull in East Bethel. I will be there in the next week or 2 to pull the heads, if you get there before me, great. I hate to see them crushed.
  23. I recently came across a 351 Windsor in a Galaxie at a salvage yard in Minnesota. It has a 2 barrel intake with no carb. Is this worth anything? I know the heads could be of value, but not sure. Do people still want these?
  24. I was following this thread with the same brake upgrade interest. I was hopeful of a simple conversion of maybe keeping the same hub, but a better rotor and caliper system. Like KT, I already have foctory power discs, but they relly do a poor job in slowing the car. My solution has been keep way back from the car in front. KT, can you follow up with what you decide and how it works. BTW, I have had a randalls Rack system for 6 years, and have had no problems and think it is fine. The loss in turning radius is not that big of a deal.
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