danno

I have a 69 vert and put in a system from a 1985 LTD. If you want to go that route rather than new, you can save a huge amount of money. Front 3 point belts cost $40 for both sides, and I had to make a couple of mounting brackets. I will try to get some pictures for you.

Go with the AOD from about any rear wheel drive car from about 1988 to 1993. Check some of the other discussions on it to verify which is correct. They are plentiful and cheap from a junkyard. I did one in my 69 vert with a 302 and it was not that difficult. You will need to make or buy a new rear support, electrical connection ( for back up lights, etc), and carb linkage. The shifter hooks right up. For the driveshaft, get the driveshaft yoke from the same car you get your tranny from. The drieshaft yoke is the piece that goes from the output of the tranny to the first U joint. It needs to be a little shorter than the one from your present 69. Otherwise, just follow the instructions posted elsewhere on this or other sites. The 4R70 requires the computer discussed, and I don't know of any advantage of the electronic tranny over the convention AOD. Both provide the same overdrive ratio.

Go with the AOD from about any rear wheel drive car from about 1988 to 1993. Check some of the other discussions on it to verify which is correct. They are plentiful and cheap from a junkyard. I did one in my 69 vert with a 302 and it was not that difficult. You will need to make or buy a new rear support, electrical connection ( for back up lights, etc), and carb linkage. The shifter hooks right up. For the driveshaft, get the driveshaft yoke from the same car you get your tranny from. The drieshaft yoke is the piece that goes from the output of the tranny to the first U joint. It needs to be a little shorter than the one from your present 69. Otherwise, just follow the instructions posted elsewhere on this or other sites. The 4R70 requires the computer discussed, and I don't know of any advantage of the electronic tranny over the convention AOD. Both provide the same overdrive ratio.

Something about this does not make sense. When you are in the highest position on the fan switch, you are connecting full battery voltage to the motor. The resistors are not a part of operation on the highest speed. My guess is you have a bad wire from the switch to the resistor or a bad connection on the resistor. You should buy a voltmeter, they are really cheap. We are always looking for oppertunities to buy new tools, so do it. Harbor Freight has them for $5.

Something about this does not make sense. When you are in the highest position on the fan switch, you are connecting full battery voltage to the motor. The resistors are not a part of operation on the highest speed. My guess is you have a bad wire from the switch to the resistor or a bad connection on the resistor. You should buy a voltmeter, they are really cheap. We are always looking for oppertunities to buy new tools, so do it. Harbor Freight has them for $5.

Doug, Your system seems almost original. Why did you need the proportioning valve? Was it bacause of the Torino rear brakes? Why did you change to the Torino barkes?

Doug, Your system seems almost original. Why did you need the proportioning valve? Was it bacause of the Torino rear brakes? Why did you change to the Torino barkes?

It could be a bad battery cable or starter solenoid. Here is a couple things to try the next time it happens. 1. Use your jumper cable to connect the minus of the battery to the motor ( the maifold bolts or someplace to get a good connection). If your minus wire from the battery to the motor is bad, this bypasses it. 2. Again using your jumper cable, turn the ignition switch on and jumper from the + battery terminal to the bolt on the starter where the huge wire connects to it. This can be a delicate operation, so be careful. Clip the jumper on the starter motor first, and the battery second. It might spark a but when you do this. If doing this works, you have either a bad wire or starter solenoid. I say this because I know wire connections can change resistance with temperature. This is a stretch, but my tests will easily rule these out. Maybe all the electrical parts are fine. I was wondering if there could be something with a hot motor that makes it more difficult to crank? Like the timing that Bruce mentioned?

It could be a bad battery cable or starter solenoid. Here is a couple things to try the next time it happens. 1. Use your jumper cable to connect the minus of the battery to the motor ( the maifold bolts or someplace to get a good connection). If your minus wire from the battery to the motor is bad, this bypasses it. 2. Again using your jumper cable, turn the ignition switch on and jumper from the + battery terminal to the bolt on the starter where the huge wire connects to it. This can be a delicate operation, so be careful. Clip the jumper on the starter motor first, and the battery second. It might spark a but when you do this. If doing this works, you have either a bad wire or starter solenoid. I say this because I know wire connections can change resistance with temperature. This is a stretch, but my tests will easily rule these out. Maybe all the electrical parts are fine. I was wondering if there could be something with a hot motor that makes it more difficult to crank? Like the timing that Bruce mentioned?

Great, thanks for the news, SM69Mach. I came across a Granada system at a salvage yard. Got the complete front hubs, rotors, and brakes for $80. Another $20 to have them turned, and I will give them a try. As I mentioned, the Granada system looks like it was made for a truck when compared to the whimpy factory disc system they used in 69. My guess is Ford realized there was a need for improvement between 69 and 76. Thanks for your reply. I will give it a try this weekend and provide a report on my findings. Danno

Great, thanks for the news, SM69Mach. I came across a Granada system at a salvage yard. Got the complete front hubs, rotors, and brakes for $80. Another $20 to have them turned, and I will give them a try. As I mentioned, the Granada system looks like it was made for a truck when compared to the whimpy factory disc system they used in 69. My guess is Ford realized there was a need for improvement between 69 and 76. Thanks for your reply. I will give it a try this weekend and provide a report on my findings. Danno

Are either of you doing the Granada swap from a car with factory disc brakes? I have factory power disc brakes that have never worked correct. I cannot get the front wheels to lock up in a panic stop, so I was thinking of switching to the Granada system. The Granada system is so much more robust than the 69 power disc system. My question will be can I use my existing master cylinder with Granada brakes, and do I need a proportiong valve?

Are either of you doing the Granada swap from a car with factory disc brakes? I have factory power disc brakes that have never worked correct. I cannot get the front wheels to lock up in a panic stop, so I was thinking of switching to the Granada system. The Granada system is so much more robust than the 69 power disc system. My question will be can I use my existing master cylinder with Granada brakes, and do I need a proportiong valve?

I tried this on my radio and it does work! You could also put a seperate switch to change to AM if you ever would want to. I am wondering where the best place would be for me to describe this? Should I put it in the "how to" section or just describe it here? Is anyone interested in doing this?

I tried this on my radio and it does work! You could also put a seperate switch to change to AM if you ever would want to. I am wondering where the best place would be for me to describe this? Should I put it in the "how to" section or just describe it here? Is anyone interested in doing this?

I know the Cougar vent is different than Mustang, but other than that, it still could work. The parts you need should be easy enough to get as used parts on ebay. There also are several salvage yards across the country that have a lot of Mustangs still in invnetory. Do a search for Mustang salvage yards and you should find something. As long as you are getting the correct dash pad, I would also get the correct parts to go with it.

I know the Cougar vent is different than Mustang, but other than that, it still could work. The parts you need should be easy enough to get as used parts on ebay. There also are several salvage yards across the country that have a lot of Mustangs still in invnetory. Do a search for Mustang salvage yards and you should find something. As long as you are getting the correct dash pad, I would also get the correct parts to go with it.

I am going to verify with mine this weekend that it can be done on mine. I mentioned it to start just to see if anyone was interested in it. I am not 100% sure it can be done, just 90%. If I am right, it involves taking your radio apart. Some are unwilling to venture into that sort of thing. I will see if it works this weekend. Danno

I am going to verify with mine this weekend that it can be done on mine. I mentioned it to start just to see if anyone was interested in it. I am not 100% sure it can be done, just 90%. If I am right, it involves taking your radio apart. Some are unwilling to venture into that sort of thing. I will see if it works this weekend. Danno

You can check the vacuum advance easily with your mouth. Put the hose that goes to the carb in your mouth and suck on it, you should see the timing change, it takes that little of a vacuum. But the mechanical is the issue. You should have 20 to 30 degrees advance at higher revs. The weights are under the pickup plate in the disti, take it apart and see if you can see a problem. You might take the whole disti out of the engine and look at the gears as long as you are at it. Just remember exactly where it was pointed when you take it out so you can put it back in the same place.

You can check the vacuum advance easily with your mouth. Put the hose that goes to the carb in your mouth and suck on it, you should see the timing change, it takes that little of a vacuum. But the mechanical is the issue. You should have 20 to 30 degrees advance at higher revs. The weights are under the pickup plate in the disti, take it apart and see if you can see a problem. You might take the whole disti out of the engine and look at the gears as long as you are at it. Just remember exactly where it was pointed when you take it out so you can put it back in the same place.

Doug, Which AVK size did you use? Where did you get them? I used a steel plate about 9 inches long and 1 inch wide. This allowed me to use sheet metal screws into this metal plate that is just inside the door panel. It has worked for 20 years, but this would be a solution more like the factory method.

Doug, Which AVK size did you use? Where did you get them? I used a steel plate about 9 inches long and 1 inch wide. This allowed me to use sheet metal screws into this metal plate that is just inside the door panel. It has worked for 20 years, but this would be a solution more like the factory method.

I have found that it is relatively easy to modify the Ford factory AM/FM radio so that there is no AM radio, and when you change the slider to AM on the front, it gives you 5 more preselected stations on FM. This gives you 10 preselects on FM. This modification could be on a radio made anytime between about 1969 and 1984. My guess is most viewers do not have the Ford factory radio. If you do, would this be something you would want?

I have found that it is relatively easy to modify the Ford factory AM/FM radio so that there is no AM radio, and when you change the slider to AM on the front, it gives you 5 more preselected stations on FM. This gives you 10 preselects on FM. This modification could be on a radio made anytime between about 1969 and 1984. My guess is most viewers do not have the Ford factory radio. If you do, would this be something you would want?