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Everything posted by danno

  1. I have a radio from a 74 that is in mine. I modified it for an MP3 input, and I have done this for others, it is fairly simple. This way I can use it as a standard AM FM, but click a switch and the audio input comes from my MP3 player. I have sold several of these modified radios on ebay. I really like the idea of keeping it looking as original as possible. When I do the mod, the radio is fully cleaned, tested, and has the modification done. Everything for under $100. But this is just another option, a tough choice.
  2. One of your questions was whether to get the 80gph or 110gph model of fuel pump. My guess is the gph stands for gallons per hour. This assumes the pump is running wide open, how much fuel can it pump on a continuous basis. The 80gph model is over 1 gallon per minute, so unless you are runnign a dragster I cannot imagine ever needing anything more. Sometimes the higher capacity models of things mean it is in general a better and more robust part. But maybe not? I still have the original Ford one in my car after 42 years and 180,000 miles. I would say whatever the original one is should work fine.
  3. The 100 amp alternator shouldn't cause any problem, but there could be something going on I might not be aware of. The way it works, the regulator is continuously monitoring the voltage on the battery. If it gets low, it turns on the alternator to charge the battery. When it gets high enough, it stops charging the battery. The problem could be that when the voltage is low, the regulator turns on the alternator to charge. The alternator turns on, but because it is a 100 amp version, it puts out a higher voltage than a 60 amp alternator. The high voltage it puts out tells the regulator the voltage is high enough, and it shuts it off. So you are constantly turning the alternator on and off. This is hard on the regulator and would cause it to fail sooner than normal. If you had a normal 60 amp alternator, the regulator would turn it on, but it might take several minutes for the voltage to get to where it needs to be. It does not turn on and off as often as it would with a 100 amp alternator.
  4. I will give your answer a try. I did not have my book with me yesterday. The alternator for a stang without a tach is 3 wires. There should be a 3 wire connector in the harness between your regulator and alternator. The red/blk wire is a ground wire, from the case of the alternator to the case of the regulator. The blk wire should be the +12 volts wire, and the orange wire goes from the alternator to the regulator. The orange is the wire to the rotor, which tells the alternator to put out power. My information is the green/red wire should run from your voltage regulator to the ignition switch. It should have 12 volts on it when the swith is in the run or start position, so this is ok. When your switch is on without the motor running, you should also have +12volts on the orange rotor wire. This tells the alternator to put out power. If there is no voltage on the orange wire, the regulator is not telling the alternator to put out any power. With the key in the run position and the motor off, you should have some voltage ont eh orange wire. Check both ends, where it attaches to the regulator and where it attaches to the alternator. Verify the black wire on your alternator has +12 volts on it when the swith is on. If it does not, this wire has a problem. GOod luck, Danno
  5. As mentioned, first check the voltmeter to see that it is accurate. If you are blowing fuses, it is probably ok. Your battery could be 13 volts if it is overcharged, but will not be that way for long. Put the voltmeter on it and turn the lights on for 2 minutes and watch voltmeter. It should drop to abotu 12.5 volts. The Next I would check the grounds, as recommended. A good clean connection on both ends of both battery cables is the first place to start. Next verify the wire from the engine block to the firewall is good. Take a jumper cable and connect one end of the black wire to the minus terminal of the battery, and the other to the bolts that hold in the voltage regulator. Then start it and see what the voltage is.
  6. I also have the 302, and I think I am running about 14 degrees at idle. I went as high as I could without getting pinging on acceleration. I switched to electronic ignition a few years ago, but did not notice a huge improvement. That could be because I bought good Blue Streak points and changed them every 10,000 miles. The solid state ignition saved me replacing points. For the carb, you might throw a rebuild kit at it. Verify there are no air leaks by spraying starter fluid around the base. Other than that, make sure you have a clean dist cap, rotors, and plugs. Those are the easy, simple things. Unfortunately, you will probably not get much more out of a stock 302 than what you have. I drive mine like my grandmother and still only get 15mpg in town. Good luck, Danno
  7. The only connection between your front running lights and head lights is the ground wire. There is a ground on the headlight that connects to the ground on the running/turn light. I will bet the place this gound wire connects to the chassis is rusted or something. One way to test this is to take a good, heavy wire, like a number 14, and connect one end of it to the minus terminal of the battery. Turn on the lights so the dim problem is happening, and insert this gound wire into the back of the connector on the headlight that the ground pin is. This will be bypassing the ground connection through the chassis. If the lights are fully bright when you do this, you have a ground problem.
  8. Wow! A lot of great information, this is really appreciated. You seem to know what you are talking about, that is very helpful. Generally I just drive around town, no big deal. But all it will take is one panic stop that I cannot make, and I end up in a wreck. $500 spent to prevent it is well worth the bucks. I will try a panic stop next summer and see if I can lock the wheels, but I doubt it. If I cannot, new pads and rotors will then be in order, from those you recommended. Thanks again Danno
  9. MikeStang, you made the comment of what a difference a good set of pads could make. I am using the standard aftermarket things, nothing special. Do they really make that much difference? Maybe that is all I need? I also probably would not hurt to get new discs without all the grooves? Do you have experience with better pads making a difference? Which would you recommend? Thanks Danno
  10. I would assume that because you have a Mach 1, it came with factory power discs. If that is the case, why are you making the change? Better stopping power? I have factory front discs on mine, and they work fine 99% of the time. I wonder if in a hard brake emergency, though, if I could brake hard enough to lock up the wheels. Is that your reason?
  11. Yes, you got a good mess going. One easy way to check things is to disconnect the harness of all wires going to the taillights. If you disconnect the rear lights harness and the front lights are ok, then you have found the problem is from the doors and back. The connectors are just to the left of the ampmeter, you will need to remove the dash pad to find them. There are 3 connectors there, one goes to the drivers door light and speaker. Disconnect all of these connectors and see what happens. When you turn on the direction indicator, the front turn signal lights should turn on, they will probably not flash. Try the left, right, headlights, and even the brake lights. Verify that when you press the brake, turn on the turn signals and the front turn signal lights stay on. This is a place to start. Let me know how it goes. Danno
  12. If you will be using an aftermarket tach, go with a seperate wire harness for the tach. A tach underhood harness will not work with a nontach under dash harness. There are other differences, like the tach version had idiot lights for alternator and oil pressure, the tach version had gauges. There is a connector behind the fuse block that connects the underdash to underhood cables, and the wires in this connector serve different purpose in the 2 connectors. Besides all that, the actual wires for the tach of a tach engine wire harness do not have the tach in them at all. It uses the engine harness for a tach signal. The engien harness goes through the firewall in a different place. It has connections for the oil pressure, temperature, and ingition wire. The ignition wire, from the coil to the key switch, is what the standard tachometer uses to sense speed.
  13. From what little bit I know, there is no difference in rear windows between coupes and verts. There is definately a difference between a 69 and 70 rear window. Is it possible one of the windows is from a 70?
  14. It sounds like you do not need a lot of the restomod features like electric fans, power windows, fancy sound system, etc. YOu are also staying with the standard steering column. With all this considered, getting one of these kits to work can be very challenging. You really should consider a new or rebuilt original harness. Just unplug your old one and plug in the new one. There are two major harnesses in the factory system. One under the hood and one under the dsah. they connect in back of the fuse box. You can buy one or both, as well as some of the other smaller harnesses as well, if you need them. Just buy what you need, and you might get by for less $$$. I stayed original, and have never regretted it. So much for my 2 cents worth. Dan
  15. I would wonder why the system they have will not work with either. I have both at home and can look them over to see what the differences are. As 02lightning mentioned, the 70 glass is longer and there was a different rubber seal between the front and back glass in a 69 and 70. The 70 door glass did not have a rubber seal on the back edge where it meets the rear window. The 69 did. I have heard it is possible to adapt any junkyard Ford power window from 1965 to about 1990 into a Mustang. Almost every power window motor for 25 years was the same thing. Maybe I can look into doing that a bit more. In the mean time, I will look, maybe this weekend, at the diference in the mechanism between 69 and 70. Check back on this next week. Danno
  16. I am not sure about your version of this manual, but i understand the original ones from 1969 were before the need for copyright. Maybe the versions that are now available have a copyright, but I do not think the original ones had it. So you should feel free to send copies of the original one. Besides all of that, I really doubt Ford is going to bother individuals who are passing on a page here or there. If you are selling copies, though, that is a different thing.
  17. After you have checked the ground connection, as suggested, then check the 12 volts when you are revving the engine up. The problem could also be the small voltage regulator on the back of the gauges. Do you have a volt and ohm meter? For the oil pressure, a simple check is to put the ignition switch to the run position and have someone sit inside and watch the oil gauge. The someone else diconnects the connection to the oil pressure sender, down by the fuel pump. Take a nail and stick in in the wire connection that went to the oil pressure sender, and the other side of the nail to the engine. You should immediately see the meter start moving. If you see it start moving, you know the wires and meter are good. The problem is the sender. DO NOT do this for more than a 5 or so seconds, it can overheat the gauge. Report back on what you find. Danno
  18. It is my understanding that the gaskets from a R12 system must be replaced to be able to use R134 in it. If this is not done, the R134 will leak out in about 2 weeks. R134 will also not get as cold as R12, another thing to consider. So on a real hot day, it might not work as well as you would want. Any shop will not be able to recharge it with R12, but they can completely evacuate the new system and allow you to put it in yourself. I bought some last year for $20 a can. It takes about 2 and a half cans to fill the system.
  19. I was not going to mention how cheap I am, but I was going to mention the method I used which worked perfect. I used the original standard bulbs, but lined the back of the cowling and the areas around the tin foil! Plain old Renolds wrap. This increases the reflection by the existing lights a huge amount. This is a take off of the painting the areas with silver paint, but easier, quicker and (did I mention?) cheaper. The gauges show up in their original color, are dimmable just as original, and all gauges are quite visible. I will take a picture of it and start a new post on how I did it. If I was really cheap I would have made a pizza on the Renolds wrap first, but I did not want my car smelling like sausage.
  20. I don't remember, but I think all I did was to turn the shift lever on teh AOD 180 degrees, and it connected right up to my existing stock shifter. I don't think you need the 89X part. That is for earlier Mustangs. So save the money and try hooking it up without it, I think it will work. As for the shift pattern, I think the AOD has a P R N D1 D2 1. D1 is with overdive 4th gear on, D2 is with it off. So what was formerly "2" on your shifter is now "D2".
  21. Certainly tell us what they found. I am curious myself. The only thing I thougth of that was not mentioned is possibly one of the flex lines to the front wheels is bad. They can blow up like a balloon, with no leaking, and create a similiar problem. But those are usually easy to see. Let us know!
  22. I have a 69 with deluxe interior, and my door panels did not have any screws visible. Just the spring clips. One screw in the door cup by the inside handle. I will look again, but I am quite sure there are no screws on the chrome piece above the carpet or in the carpet. There were some on the speaker grilles, though.
  23. I am also an electrical engineer, and as Raven mentioned, there is no easy way. But having said that, it does remain possible, just not easy. All you need to do is add a resistor in the wire to your instruments that supplies voltage to the LED's. It should be the blue-red wire to the instruments. Determining the value of resistor, though, will be difficult. If you want to give it a try, I will work with you on it. The resistor solution will probably not work to dim the LED's more as you twist the light switch knob, but if all you want is to dim them when the dash lights are on at normal full brightness, then the resistor solution will work. The resistor solution, if needed, will cost about $1 to purchase the resistor. You will need to measure the current in the this blue-red wire when the lights are on. You will need an current meter to do this, most all new voltmeters also have a function to measure current. If you ( or anyone else with LED's) can make this measurement as a place to start, then we can go from there to the next step.
  24. As mentioned, the only resistance wire is from the ignition switch to the coil. It is not connected to the instrumants in any way. Where is the smoke coming from? The colored wires or the flexible wire planel on the back of the instruments? You say the smoke comes when you start the car. What if the key is in the accessory position? What if the key is in the run position but the motor is off? I need a bit more information.
  25. Bruce is correct, but it is an average of 5 volts, so if you try to measure it with a voltmeter it will be 12 volts sometime and 0 volts sometime. This is true for the OEM voltage regulators. It changes between 12 volts and 0 volts slowly, so put a voltmeter on it and watch the voltage for a minute or so, you should see it change. If you have a new replacement regulator, they probably put out 5 volts all the time.
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