danno

I am testing my reply, I do not see it working.

Richard, I live in Minneapolis and if you are close by, I could take a look at it. The odds are the wires you have are fine. Oxidation of the copper wires in Minnesota is not that bad of a problem. Where it is worse is on coastal areas with a lot of salt spray in the air. I also have the factory hood scoop and could show you how that connects.

Yes, that should work fine for you. You should not need a huge amp, but a few extra watts makes a large difference in audio sound quality. I put my amplifiers in the trunk.

It sounds reasonable assuming this is the price for both sides. You will also need hoses and possibly master cylinder and disti block. The rotors as they were from the factory are under $40 each aftermarket, and the pads are cheaper. The calipers in that year were huge, massive parts. I have a Granada setup at home that I have not installed, and I bet each side wieghts 70 pounds. So shipping will be a few bucks and also need to be considered. Assuming reasonable shipping I say go for it.

I live in Minneapolis, and if it would help I could take a look at it if you live close by. I also have the factory scoop and know how it connects. Minnesota salt can be harmful to wires, it oxidizes the copper and turns it green. This is typically much worse in a coastal area with salt spray in the air all the time, though. If the car has been sitting for a long time, it is probably alright. Let me know if you want me to look at what you have. Danno

MaxPower, I will ge tback to you on what my schedule is. BigDuke and others, these radios made back then did not put out any real volume without distorting. It worked fine back then, but now people realize what they had was just good, not great. Amplifiers and nice speakers are almost mandatory. With all those speakers you are talking about, get some nice amps. You do not need those huge amplifiers, they are a joke. 30 watts per speaker in teh front and maybe 60 watts in the rear should be fine for 90% of the time. I am also curious, as you are in Germany, do you use the same radio frequencies as in the US?

I agree with TexasEd, the original is the best and easiest way to go. Midlife seems to do good work for a reasonable price. I can imagine the headache of trying o get some "modified generic" harness from AAW to work. the original is just plug and go.

Are they still doing the shows, or are they done for the year? North St Paul is certainly close enough, so I could do it. Lee, I am pretty sure that will win unless others want it for more. The only ones who might want to pay more are those who read this. For their sake and yours, I think I will be coming across another in October and doing the mod to it as well. So other readers of this site do not need to outbid you unless they can't wait. Thanks, Danno

I don't know about those shows. I have been to the one at Apple valley Ford in June, and I used to go to the one at the Ford plant, but I don't think they don't do that anymore.

Yes, that is me in Minneapolis. I have not set a buy it now price, as I do not know what is fair. I have sold about 6 of these radios with this mod, and it is usually about $100. I have also worked with owners of 67 and 68 Fords who had the AM/ 8 track tape players. They can also be converted for MP3 input to keep the look of originality. I have also explained how this is done on this forum, check for other threads with my name from earlier this year.

How is your oil pressure? Could it be oil pump? I know that is towards the front of the engine, but they do make strange noises. It is not that difficult to replace the pump if there is any doubt, just need to take off the oil pan.

Do you have pictures of what you have? The power steering pump bracket on the front of the pump on mine has 4 holes, but I have a 302.

Just in case anyone is interested, I do the modification on the factory radios so they will work with an MP3 or CD player. I have one on ebay now, search for " AM FM Ford Mp3 69 " and you should find it. You can trust buying from me, I am in this forum all the time and will treat you right.

It seems to me the 70 wheel will not work on a 69. There are 2 rings that make contact for the horn wires. I think they are different diameters. Measure the diameter of the rings in the wheel of a 69 and a 70. I will bet they are different. Take a picture of each and Please report what you find, because i am curious. Danno

My car started making a new noise a week ago, and I could not figure it out. It was a howl from the engine that I was not used to. I thought about water pump, alternator, A/C, etc, so I loosend all belts to see if the noise went away. It did not, so I retightened everything and kept driving a bit. I did notice the oil pressure was low, but I did not have the tappat click sound that you get when you are low on oil. Last saturday I tried to start it, and the starter could not turn the motor over. I was guessing oil pump problems, so went about the replacement process. I removed the pump and found the shaft that drives the pump twisted like a stick of licorice. The pump had bound up solid, and so much so that when I tried to start the car, it twisted this shaft. I replaced the oil pump and shaft and all is now fine. So symptoms of a bad oil pump are low oil pressure and added engine noise. That's my story and I am sticking to it.

Yes, that is the power wire for the convertible top motor. In my 69, it goes to the + side of the solenoid, I do not have the cirucit breaker. I don't think they had one in 69. but it could have a fusable link in the wire.

One additional comment, one of the self serv junk yards in town just got a 85 LTD, I might be able to see if it has this system in it if you would be interested.

One additional comment, one of the self serv junk yards in town just got a 85 LTD, I might be able to see if it has this system in it if you would be interested.

A couple more pictures. I will bet MustangChuck's system is probably the same as mine. These show the retractor when out of the car so you can see how it fits. I will try to get more pictures tomorrow. The piece that supports the shoulder restraint attaches to some bolts that are a part of the conv top. The piece is a L shaped thick steel, about 2 inches wide, the long end of the L is about 4 inches, and the short end of the L ( the part the belt hoop is connected to) is about 2 inches long.

A couple more pictures. I will bet MustangChuck's system is probably the same as mine. These show the retractor when out of the car so you can see how it fits. I will try to get more pictures tomorrow. The piece that supports the shoulder restraint attaches to some bolts that are a part of the conv top. The piece is a L shaped thick steel, about 2 inches wide, the long end of the L is about 4 inches, and the short end of the L ( the part the belt hoop is connected to) is about 2 inches long.

This is the system I used out of a 85 LTD. I made a bracket to mount the retractor to the floor, and another to mount the part by the rear window for the shoulder restraint. I can provied more pictures if needed, and I can also get pictures of the bracket that mounts the retractor to the floor. For the lap belt, I used the same factory mounting places as in 69. I do not have a picture of the rest of the belt, but it is one continuous piece from the retractor, up to the shoulder restraint ( shown) and to the buckel, and on to the place where it attaches to the floor. It probably would not pass a complete approval by the Washington bureaucrats, but I feel quite safe in it. My guess is the belt might not be high enough for going over the shoulder for someone over 6 feet tall, but I do not have to worry about that. You are going to have to pay a good price for someone to sell you a system for a restomod that is fully tested. A huge part of every purchase is paying up front for legal problems later, and the personal injury liability of selling a product like this would be HUGE. Even the junk yard where I got my system made me sign a waiver that they would not be liable in any way for selling it to me.

This is the system I used out of a 85 LTD. I made a bracket to mount the retractor to the floor, and another to mount the part by the rear window for the shoulder restraint. I can provied more pictures if needed, and I can also get pictures of the bracket that mounts the retractor to the floor. For the lap belt, I used the same factory mounting places as in 69. I do not have a picture of the rest of the belt, but it is one continuous piece from the retractor, up to the shoulder restraint ( shown) and to the buckel, and on to the place where it attaches to the floor. It probably would not pass a complete approval by the Washington bureaucrats, but I feel quite safe in it. My guess is the belt might not be high enough for going over the shoulder for someone over 6 feet tall, but I do not have to worry about that. You are going to have to pay a good price for someone to sell you a system for a restomod that is fully tested. A huge part of every purchase is paying up front for legal problems later, and the personal injury liability of selling a product like this would be HUGE. Even the junk yard where I got my system made me sign a waiver that they would not be liable in any way for selling it to me.

In a non-tach version there are 8 for illumination 2 turn signals 1 high beam 1 brake warning The seat belt light is a different style, no need to replace it. It is just a real idiot light.

In a non-tach version there are 8 for illumination 2 turn signals 1 high beam 1 brake warning The seat belt light is a different style, no need to replace it. It is just a real idiot light.

I have a 69 vert and put in a system from a 1985 LTD. If you want to go that route rather than new, you can save a huge amount of money. Front 3 point belts cost $40 for both sides, and I had to make a couple of mounting brackets. I will try to get some pictures for you.