danno

This has probably already been checked, but it there a chance it could be the coolant lines? There is also the chance the tranny was overfilled with fluid and it is fine now? I say call the shop and chat with them about it. For the motor, step back and review it all. It must be something simple...

You will need to figure out if your tach works, though. If you have an ohmmeter, put it on the leads to the tach. It should read a low resistance. If it reads anything over 100 ohms, the odds are your tach is burnt "open".

You could have something that is shorting out the ign wire from your key switch. Disconnect all the wires to your ignition and see if you can get the motor to turn over. If that does not do it, it sounds like you have a bad connection. You will have to start the troubleshooting procedure if that is the case.

I am wondering if this is the same person, the odds are that it is. I thought he was northeast of Little Rock, but maybe not. I will look at my paperwork tonight. If it is the same guy, then you know how valuable he is. 7 years ago I talked to him about selling on ebay, and he was not at all interested in that "interweb stuff". Let us know when you get your new parts and I will walk you through testing them with the light bulb, if needed.

I don't know how the module could have shorted out the coil either. If you had it miswired, that could do it. Other than that, it should work. If you have a light bulb in a socket, you can do the light test. It might be worth buying them if you do not have them. By the way, what part of Arkansas do you live in? There used to be a guy about 50 miles northeast of Little Rock with a whole bunch of old Mustangs that he would sell parts from. I bought parts from him back in 2003. Do you know of htis guy? Is there an Army base around there? I think he was by the army base.

You could use the excuse that the 6 cylinder disti caused the coil to fail. You replaced the disti module without knowing the coil had failed. Then you replaced the disti module with the right one, and because the coil was bad, it caused the new disti module to fail. Your hypothetically thing about the module buring the coil is not hypothetical, it is very real. The output from the disti that connects to the coil is normally either a short to ground (when the coil builds up a charge) or an open ( when the spark occurs). If the module is shorted to ground continuously, it will overheat the coil and can ruin it.

Why don't you measure the voltage on your back up lights? You will need to take out one of the bulbs and put a voltmeter in the socket. Also measure the voltage right on the battery. I will bet it is at least 2 volts lower at the bulb. It is a lot of wires, connectors, and a dirty switch inside the transmission that cause the voltage at the bulb to be lower. Another easy fix is to use a 6 volt bulb, if it is low voltage in the socket. I am pretty sure you can still buy that bulb in a 6 volt version. I don't know how long it would last, but if the voltage you measure is low enough, this could work?

If I remember right, the tach uses it's own connection on the back of the inst cluster. All the other pins on the cluster interconnect are to change connections from gauges to idiot lights. If your tach is not working, it is either not connected, bypassed, or broke. Do you have the 2 wire connector on the back of the tach? It should connect to the underdash harness that goes to the engine harness. The engine harness is not the same as the underhood (or headlight) harness.

Yes, it looks like your + and - terminals were melted, or shorted, together because you measured 0.2 ohms. I am not sure which part failed inititally, it could have been either. When the first failure to occur, it caused the other part to go bad. What caused the new coil to fail was because your disti module was bad. It is very likely that if either the coil or disti is bad and you connect the bad part to a good one, itr will cause the good one to also fail. Something failed within the coil, either the resistor or wires, it could be either. The 6 cylinder rotor and excessive cranking should not make any difference. Neither of those should have caused anything to fail. What could have caused a failure was something miswired, even for a second, with the voltage is on. What filter are you discussing? You mentioned on the 2nd time around to install a filter. What is this? If you replace both parts with new, and wire it correctly, it should work. Just in case, you might want to try the test light thing I talked about. It is a safe way to validate it is all connected correct.

If you have a double filament bulb and socket in there already, are you lighting both filiments?

I looked at the details for the 30450 coil, and you are not supposed to need a ballast resistor. So you should be good to go. When you used the ohmmeter and read 0.2, that is a short, not an open. The + and - inputs are shorted together inside the coil. If this happens, it will blow up your distributor pretty quickly. I guess you know that. From the center post to either the + or - should give you about 9 kiloohms. 9 kiloohms is the same as 9000 ohms. Your ohmmeter probably adjusted the scale automatically so you thought you were seeing ohms, when in fact it was kiloohms. You should be fine with the red disti wire, ign switch, and coil + all tied together in the same wires. Don't worry about the resistor. You had it connected correct, just one bad part caused the next part to fail. When you replaced the bad part, because the second part failed initially, it caused your replacement to fail. If all of them work, you should be in good shape. By the way, the reason most cars have a ballast resistor is that this is normally connected to teh coil +. When the car is starting, the ballast resistor is bypassed so you get a hotter spark. With your coil having an internal resistor, you will have the same spark during start that you have during run.

You have me curious now about mine. I am wondering if the double filiment idea will actually work.

OK, first on the coil. Ohms checks at these low values are always a bit tricky. You should disconnect all wires to the coil and measure from the big center post to the - input or the + input and you should get about the same for both. About the 9 ohms or so. Connect the leads of the ohmmeter together and read what the meter says when the leads of the ohmmeter are directly connected together. This is "zero ohms", not matter what the meter says. Now connect it between the + and - inputs, and you should get close to zero or a little more. Maybe 1 ohm. This sounds like it is measuring this and so far it is good. The ign wire to the red disti wire is correct. This single wire then that goes to the positive side of the coil is the one that the resistor usually goes in. So the + side of the coil has a short wire that only goes to the resistor, and the other end of the resistor goes to the red wire of the disti. This all assumes you need a resistor. As I mentioned, if you are 100% sure the coil has the resistor built in, then it is not needed. Quote "Before the 1st module burnt up, I did confirm 12v at the ign. and checking the module with a credit card blocking the optic I got 1.5 - 2.0. If the optic was BAD it would of read 12v." Probably true. If you read 1.5 to 2 volts with everything connected and using the card to block the light is sounds ok. If you remove the card it should go back to 12v. quote "I believe excessive cranking caused the module or coil to go. Unbeknown to me the coil resistor was shot after the 1st module." You should be able to read the resistance of the coil resistor. The manufacturer should have a specification for it, they are usually about 10 ohms. quote " I installed the module, turned the key on and went to put the pos battery cable on, at that moment, I heard a crackle at the battery pos post andn witness smoke coming up from the module. I checked all of my wires under the dash and in the engine are. Nothing was wrong. I concluded that since the coil was shot w/o me knowing it burnt the 2nd module." This could be true. Try the light bulb test I mentioned on your existing or new module. Good luck, I will check back on this...

I don't think they were ever that bright. Back up lights were kind of a new thing then, they did not care about how bright they were. A simple fix might be to put in a double filament bulb. The double filament bulbs are the normal taillights, you just file off the nobber on one side so the double filament bulb fits in the socket of a single filament bulb. The your backup lights will have twice the brightness. Otherwise, I would say kick back and relax. Too many big issues to worry about than dim backup lights.

I once heard something like if you have to advance the clock more than an hour, it speeds it up. Likewise for slowing it down. It supposedly had this built in mechanism for correcting it's speed. I don't know if it really works, I would doubt it. Has anyone ever wondered what the stupid designers were thinking when they designed a clock the driver cannot see???? What a stupid idea. I don't care if mine is correct time or not, I have never been able to see it. I look at my watch.....

Mike, I am not sure about the plate style condenser. I thought they are all tube styles inside. Is this the factory compressor for 1969? Then the oil level check should be in the book. If it is anything else, you better contact the manufacturer to verify teh correct oil and level of it. Some of the R12 oils will not work with R134. You also need to determine now if you are going to use R12 or R134. The o rings on the seals between every hose opening needs to be changed if you use R134. The gas molecules of R134 are smaller and can penetrate through the o-ring material of a R12 o-ring.

Maybe I can supply a little more confusion. There should be no need to put a resistor between the red wire to the distributor. The red wire to the disti is to supply operating voltage for the electronics in the distributor. Unless you are 100% sure the coil has an internal resistor, then the resistor goes between the ignition and the + of the coil. I did some looking, and I could not confirm that your coil has an internal resistor. I am not sure you will have any luck with Mallory, they are out of control of the way their system is connected and what it is connected to. But let's see if you can figure this out. If you have a bad coil, it will cause the distributor to fail. Likewise, if you have a bad distributor, it will cause the coil to go bad. So you start with one bad part, it causes the other part to go bad. You replace the original bad part, but because the second part went bad, the new part also fails. It is a terrible circle to be stuck in. You almost need to check each part out seperatly. You should be able to test the coil and distributor independant of each other to allow you to see if each is operating corrently. For the coil, it should measure about 1 ohm between the + and -. If it does, then hook the coil high voltage output ( the big lead that does to the center plug on the disti) directly to a spark plug wire, and put a spark plug in the other end. Clamp the plug to the engine somewhere so you can see it spark. You will be bypassing the distributor completely. Then take a little wire that is connected to the engine ground and touch it to the coil - for a tenth of a second. In other words, just brush the ground wire past the - input. When you do, you should see spark on the plug. It will be faint, so shut off the lights so you can see it. To test the distributor, you will need a 12 volt light bulb with wires on it. Connect one wire from the light bulb to +12 volts, and the other wire to the bulb to the green wire of the distributor. As you slowly try to start the motor, you will see the light turning on and off. If the motor was turning over as fast as it would notmally to try to start, the light should be dim.

Then I can understand your predicament. If you have a harness already set up for a one wire alternator, changing to the factory setup would be a difficult wiring problem. Contact the manufacturer of your alternator or look at their web site to see if they have suggestions about mounting. I know a lot of people have made your switch with a 302 or 351, so it must be possible.

They should keep doing it, every one wrecked makes mine worth more. It is kind of a sad way to think of it, though.

The factory alternators were 45 or 55 amps. Later ones were 60 or 65 amps. What have you got that requires all that power? Electric radiator fans?

Yes, it is on the bolt that allows the calipers to slide independant of each other. I put grease on the bolt before installing it in the slide because you do not want it to rust together. I hope you understand what I mean?

Have you considered a factory alternator? I read about people putting in these 100 amp alternators and I always ask myself why? I have a factory 65 amp alternator with all the usual add ons. I have AC, huge stereo amplifiers, electronic ignition, halogen headlights, and power windows. I have had this setup for 10 years and never had any trouble with running low on power from the alternator. The only thing I do not have that is a significant load is electric radiator fan. All of this does not make any difference though if you already have purchased the alternator. If you have not, then reconsider the need and use the factory setup.

What did you find? Where did you find it?

What are the mods to your car? Have you changed the brakes, steering, or suspension?

With your years of knowledge we need you more than you need us. Maybe you can keep this new 69 for a while and keep us posted on the project forum. Danno