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Everything posted by danno

  1. I have been logging in every day, but today all the photos are viewable. Yesterday and all last week they were not. I swear I have not changed anything in my computer. Today they are viewable, yesterday they were not. I will look to see if I can get a schematic and layout for the circuit card. Then we can proceed to the next step and you can decide if you want to tear into this when I get the schematic. More later... Danno
  2. Once again I cannot see the photos. I see them in other threads, so I don't think it is me. Are you attaching the photo or just a link to it? Your idea of an seperate amp will certainly work. You can usually go directly from the headphone output of your MP3 to the low level input ( with the RCA plugs) of your amplifier. Volume control is a pain, though, to do it on a mp3. It is usually a 2 hands deal, risky when driving. You are right in that it is not a simple deal to add the mod to these radios. For me, with the radio in front of me, it is simple. If you still want to try it, we can continue with the description... Danno
  3. I can see the photos I included, but not the ones you put in. All I see is a red X. I sent a different message about the red X, and I was told that gets put in place of attachements after some time has passed. You can probably still see them because you put them there. Anyway, repost them and I will save them to my computer next time. Danno
  4. The problem I mentioned in my previous reply might not have been clear. In your previous reply, you put a photo of the radio with the part number and bottom of the circuit card. Apparantly these photos are not maintained on the thread, so you need to post them again. I need to know the part number of your radio.
  5. How do I view photos or attachments in a thread? These are old posts in a thread, the photos were viewable when the post was new, but now that other replies are made, the photos are no longer visible. Yesterday I could see them, today I cannot.
  6. Tim I am using the factory cruise control from the same truck I got the wheel from. The junk yard let me have it all for $30. The cruise took a little work, but it now works great. Dan
  7. The picture no longer is visible. What do I need to do to see it? It worked yesterday, I don't know what happened. What is the part number for your radio again?
  8. Yes, there are 3 potentiometers on the shaft. One for left volume, one for right volume, and one for balance. If you wire your new input to the volume, you will not have balance control. But you possibly can wire it to the balance knob. Put you ohmeter on it to see which one is the balance. The way the circuit works, there is an output from the decoder amplifier, which goes from this to the balance knob. This same connection then goes on to the tone and volume knobs. You would need to cut the connection between the balance knob and the decoder amplifier and connect your MP3 input to this. So you would be close and almost correct in your statement about connecting to the volume control. I hope some of this makes sense. I also need to find a schematic and layout for your radio. I do not have one for your exact model. I have a real good guess of what to modifiy on the one you have and would have no problem figureing it out if I had it with me, but to tell you is difficult. Do you have the schematic and layout? Sam's Technical manuals makes a who set of these, you would need the one for your radio.
  9. Your radio is from a 1975 Ford, with the D5 in the part number. I will need to check my schematics and layout tonight to see if it shows something that will allow me to tell you what to do next. I have an oscilloscope, and with that it would be easy for me to find the place to cut, even without a schematic. Do you have a digital voltmeter that will read AC volts under 1 volt? If you have one, that could also give me a way to find out more.
  10. I thought of passing on what I thought was a good discovery. My 69 vert had a deluxe steering wheel, that large wood grain thing. It was worn in a few places, so instead of spending bug bucks to repair it I decided to see what the salvage yards had that could work. What I found was the wheel from a 1980's vintage Ford Truck, and I am amazed at how perfectly it worked in my 69. It is smaller diameter, which I wanted, and the nice soft leather grip. The diameter of the plastic where it meets with the shaft is also a perfect match. Even the camera case texture of the plastic is the same as in 69. The only problem was the rings for the horn connection. I had to do a mod and use the rings from my old wheel in the new one, but I got it to work. On top of all that, I also got the cruise control working, with the controls on the steering wheel as shown. More on that in a different thread. I can discuss more on how I did it, if anyone is interested. Danno
  11. Jeff, good pictures. The model you have is different from others I have seen, but the change has to be about the same. The change is made in the circuit card that is on the bottom, under the pushbutton station selector mechanism. That is why I said taking it apart is a mess, because you are not there yet. Before you do that, there could be a way to do it from the bottom of the circuit card. I need to review the schematic on it to see if it is possible. In the mean time, take a picture of the bottom, just so I have something to work with. I will find out if it is necessary to take the station selector out. Also, do you have the model number of the radio, from the side? Something like D0ZB-122944-EB. The saga continues, Danno
  12. Jeff, I will keep watching the forum for updates on your porgress. My only other comment is about the USB voltage for your Mp3 player. I understand 8 hours is plenty of time, but it does mean you have to remember to take it out of your car and recharge. I have a cheap MP3 player I leave in the car, plugged in and ready to go all the time. To 69gmachine, the $80 is usually for a working AM/FM from the 1970's or 1980's. I am not familiar with an AM/FM 8 track. I am doing the mod to an 1968 AM/8 track now, and will find out how difficult that is. I know it can be done to yours, but a lot of the work is taking the thing apart and putting it all back together. That 8 track thing could make it a lot more difficult to take it apart. As yours is already apart, it could be difficult to get it back together. Let's wait a bit until I get the one I am now doing first. My initial guess is that I could do it, but it might be a couple bucks more because of your 8 track. Follow this thread and we will keep in touch.
  13. By the way, when you get it apart take a couple photos of the circuit card and attach them to the reply. I want to make sure what you have is what I think you have.
  14. Ok, I appreciate someone willing to take on a challenge like you are about to do. The first thing you need to do is to take off the top and front. The whole assembly with the station control pushbuttons all comes off as one piece. The the potentiometers on the left side for volume, etc, stay soldered to the circuit card. There are small 3/16 inch hex head screws on the bottom side that need to be removed, but the panel on the bottom stays attached. You need to take off the gear drive for the station select knob, there is a small screw on the side near the gear that is the trick to this. There is a circuit card assembly mounted verticle right behind the station select mechanism. This comes out with the mechanism. It attaches to the main circuit card ( the one across the bottom) with little spring clips, so it just pulls away from it. There are a couple wires that need to be cut, remember where they go so you know where to put them back. Some of the wires are attached to the main circuit card with "quick connects" so you can just pull them and they come right off, no need to cut. The front metal panel and the black plastic around the buttons all come off as one piece, you do not need to take that all apart. So start looking it over and let me know when you get the whole station select mechanism removed.
  15. I have done what you are asking about several times. I did it for myself and started doing it for others who wanted the same thing. I am doing it now for someone who wants MP3 stereo for his AM/8 track. That way he can use his MP3 for music or as a FM receiver and keep the car original. When I do this mod, you can switch from the normal AM/FM to a remote audio input. The remote audio input plugs into the headphone jack on any typical MP3, CD player, or even a TV. Then you can use the knobs on your radio to adjust volume and balance. It has a seperate toggle switch to change between normal radio operation and remote input to it. When I do the mod, I also put in a USB port to supply power to your MP3 so the battery is always charged. So in my system, I have my MP3 player in the console glove box. It has 2 wires to it, the audio (in the headphone plug) and the USB connection for voltage to it. I click the switch on the dash to change between normal AM/FM and MP3. So that is how it works. How to do it, though, is not an easy thing to explain. You need to take the whole radio apart, find the right parts to modify, do the mod, and install the relay, install the USB voltage supply, do all the wiring and connections, and put it all back together correctly. That part about putting it all back correctly can be a real challenge the first time. If you have electronics knowledge, know the difference between a resistor and capacitor, know how to solder to a printed circuit board, and know how to read a schematic and layout, then there is a chance you could do it. Some radios are a lot more complicated than others, though. The mod is a lot more difficult on the original 69 AM/FM ( the one without the balance knob below the station select buttons) and some other radios. I would not even try to explain how to do it on those. But the average AM/FM from the 1970's it does work on easier. I typically charge about $80 to do the mod to a working radio, and I am not making much money doing this, believe me. Just enough to pay for materials and beer while doing it. I know others do this also for a business, for me it is just to help others. If you can fill the pants and want a challenge, I will tell you or anyone else how to do it. Like I said, I am not in it for the money so I am happy to tell others how to do it. But I don't want to waste your time and mine if I need to start with a review high school electricity. So in a nutshell, the modification generally amounts to the following. There is an amplifier IC in radio right after the AM/FM selector switch. This IC is under the pushbutton station control mechanism, so that all has to come out. The output of this amp goes to the volume, balance, and tone knob controls, and finally to the output amplifier. The amplifier IC has 2 outputs, one for left and one for right. These outputs go to resistors, usually 6800 ohms. You need to cut the trace between the amplifier and these resistors, and that is where you wire your remote audio input. I can go over it in some more detail, though, if you want. If what I said in the previous paragraph makes sense, along with the "filling the pants" part, then you can do it. Let us all know what your next step is. Danno
  16. You have got something simple that is very wrong. You mentioned you are using aftermarket parking lamps, and that could be the start of the problem. You also have a new harness to the front of the car. Something with that could also be bad. To reduce the number of places the problem could be from, disconnect both front parking/ turn signal lights. Disconnect them where they connect to the main underhood harness, a 3 wire connector behind the lights. Disconnect these, and see if your parking lights now work, and the turn signal lights stay off. If you do this, the turn signals will not flash, they will come on and stay on. Try this first, then we can proceed to the next test...
  17. You can see the spacers in the above photo. They are the dark grey piece on the 2 screws for each gauge. These absolutely MUST be there. Another possibility is that the screws are shorting out. Ford supplied a plastic piece to cover the threads after everything else is done. I think it was to remove a potential problem not a real one. But if those threads for the ampmeter come in contact with something after installation, that will also burn up your wires.
  18. I have a radio from a 74 that is in mine. I modified it for an MP3 input, and I have done this for others, it is fairly simple. This way I can use it as a standard AM FM, but click a switch and the audio input comes from my MP3 player. I have sold several of these modified radios on ebay. I really like the idea of keeping it looking as original as possible. When I do the mod, the radio is fully cleaned, tested, and has the modification done. Everything for under $100. But this is just another option, a tough choice.
  19. One of your questions was whether to get the 80gph or 110gph model of fuel pump. My guess is the gph stands for gallons per hour. This assumes the pump is running wide open, how much fuel can it pump on a continuous basis. The 80gph model is over 1 gallon per minute, so unless you are runnign a dragster I cannot imagine ever needing anything more. Sometimes the higher capacity models of things mean it is in general a better and more robust part. But maybe not? I still have the original Ford one in my car after 42 years and 180,000 miles. I would say whatever the original one is should work fine.
  20. The 100 amp alternator shouldn't cause any problem, but there could be something going on I might not be aware of. The way it works, the regulator is continuously monitoring the voltage on the battery. If it gets low, it turns on the alternator to charge the battery. When it gets high enough, it stops charging the battery. The problem could be that when the voltage is low, the regulator turns on the alternator to charge. The alternator turns on, but because it is a 100 amp version, it puts out a higher voltage than a 60 amp alternator. The high voltage it puts out tells the regulator the voltage is high enough, and it shuts it off. So you are constantly turning the alternator on and off. This is hard on the regulator and would cause it to fail sooner than normal. If you had a normal 60 amp alternator, the regulator would turn it on, but it might take several minutes for the voltage to get to where it needs to be. It does not turn on and off as often as it would with a 100 amp alternator.
  21. I will give your answer a try. I did not have my book with me yesterday. The alternator for a stang without a tach is 3 wires. There should be a 3 wire connector in the harness between your regulator and alternator. The red/blk wire is a ground wire, from the case of the alternator to the case of the regulator. The blk wire should be the +12 volts wire, and the orange wire goes from the alternator to the regulator. The orange is the wire to the rotor, which tells the alternator to put out power. My information is the green/red wire should run from your voltage regulator to the ignition switch. It should have 12 volts on it when the swith is in the run or start position, so this is ok. When your switch is on without the motor running, you should also have +12volts on the orange rotor wire. This tells the alternator to put out power. If there is no voltage on the orange wire, the regulator is not telling the alternator to put out any power. With the key in the run position and the motor off, you should have some voltage ont eh orange wire. Check both ends, where it attaches to the regulator and where it attaches to the alternator. Verify the black wire on your alternator has +12 volts on it when the swith is on. If it does not, this wire has a problem. GOod luck, Danno
  22. As mentioned, first check the voltmeter to see that it is accurate. If you are blowing fuses, it is probably ok. Your battery could be 13 volts if it is overcharged, but will not be that way for long. Put the voltmeter on it and turn the lights on for 2 minutes and watch voltmeter. It should drop to abotu 12.5 volts. The Next I would check the grounds, as recommended. A good clean connection on both ends of both battery cables is the first place to start. Next verify the wire from the engine block to the firewall is good. Take a jumper cable and connect one end of the black wire to the minus terminal of the battery, and the other to the bolts that hold in the voltage regulator. Then start it and see what the voltage is.
  23. I also have the 302, and I think I am running about 14 degrees at idle. I went as high as I could without getting pinging on acceleration. I switched to electronic ignition a few years ago, but did not notice a huge improvement. That could be because I bought good Blue Streak points and changed them every 10,000 miles. The solid state ignition saved me replacing points. For the carb, you might throw a rebuild kit at it. Verify there are no air leaks by spraying starter fluid around the base. Other than that, make sure you have a clean dist cap, rotors, and plugs. Those are the easy, simple things. Unfortunately, you will probably not get much more out of a stock 302 than what you have. I drive mine like my grandmother and still only get 15mpg in town. Good luck, Danno
  24. The only connection between your front running lights and head lights is the ground wire. There is a ground on the headlight that connects to the ground on the running/turn light. I will bet the place this gound wire connects to the chassis is rusted or something. One way to test this is to take a good, heavy wire, like a number 14, and connect one end of it to the minus terminal of the battery. Turn on the lights so the dim problem is happening, and insert this gound wire into the back of the connector on the headlight that the ground pin is. This will be bypassing the ground connection through the chassis. If the lights are fully bright when you do this, you have a ground problem.
  25. Wow! A lot of great information, this is really appreciated. You seem to know what you are talking about, that is very helpful. Generally I just drive around town, no big deal. But all it will take is one panic stop that I cannot make, and I end up in a wreck. $500 spent to prevent it is well worth the bucks. I will try a panic stop next summer and see if I can lock the wheels, but I doubt it. If I cannot, new pads and rotors will then be in order, from those you recommended. Thanks again Danno
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