danno

If you want to go with the factory wheel, I certainly understand. If you might consider other options, this is one that I did. It is from a 1980's era Ford Truck. Surprisingly, it fit very well. It is soft leather, a bit smaller diameter, and matches the column very well. They are cheap on fleabay or a local salvage yard. I am not sure the picture got attached, will try again if it did not. On top of that, I have cruise control buttons to connect to my working cruise control! [ATTACH]10962[/ATTACH]

There really is not a good place under the dash to connect to 12 volts when the key is in the run position. I think everything in the dash wires is on whenever accy is on. As I remember, the 12v ignition on wire goes right from the key to the coil. It could also go to the instrument panel, but I am not sure about that. You almost need to splice onto an existing wire. If it is just gauges, why not connect them to the 12 v for accessory? The factory gauges were all connected to accessory 12v.

Several years ago I replaced my bulb with 2 blue LED's. One LED is close to the R and one close to the 2 on the display. They provide great illumination all the time. They are attached to the plastic piece (that has the PRND12 on it) on the underside. LEDs will last forever and should work fine. I thougth of making a kit that includes everything needed for this and try selling it. I could probably make it for about $20, sell it for about $30. Do you suppose people would buy it?

Power window motors take about 10 amps. The other items are much less or are for such a short duration it does not make that much difference. So I would say a #14 as a minimum, #12 would be ok, and a #10 if you want a bit of overkill. Where are you going to put your new fuse box, and what type?

Mike, There is a connection on the fuse block for the fuses that run the flashers and another one for door lamps and cigar lighter. Otherwise without splicing into an existing wire in the harness, there is no good place to grab a source of 12 volts all the time. Like mentioned, I would run a seperate wire with to the battery connection at the solenoid. I put an additional fuse block for all my accessories under the hood and ran individual wires inside from it. Did you get your new radio yet? Dan

Oh, the mystery. We have all been there. Wondering which is the right way it is supposed to be done. Fortunately I can compromise on what is best for me, not what was original to the factory. I gave up on that factory stuff, not that it could not be reclaimed, but I want to drive, not strive.

A lot of cars with diesel motors use vacuum boosters. I agree that at least trying to fix your present brakes is worth it. You might spend a lot of time and effort changing to a manual brake system and not be happy with it. Also think of the stopping ability. If stopping with power brakes gains you 5 feet in stopping distance, is it worth running the risk of not having that additional stopping power? Like my rack and pinion steering, I cannot imagine driving without it. Anything that contributes to safety with a small cost is worth it. SO there is my $0.02

I think you have a different problem than this wire. If I understand that a IVR is the instrument voltage regulator, it has nothing to do with the dash lights. You also mentioned problems with them. Try connecting a seperate ground wire to the metal on the instru panel. I will bet this is the problem. It is the only thing in common between the IVR and dash lights.

It sure sounds like a bad headlight switch, but it could be the wires instead. One thing to try is to unplug the headlights on one side and see if the other side then is bright. That will tell you if the extra power needed for brighter bulbs is causing the problem. My guess is that it is not. Your existing switch should work for headlights that take more power, I have been using Halogen lights with factory switch and wires for years. A headlight relay system will definately make your lights brighter and make your switch last longer. It could solve your problem if you have a weak switch, bad connections, or bad wires. But I say get what you have now working, and if you want brighter lights add the relay.

If you really are at 17 volts, there is a chance you could blow up your CD player. I would unplug it until you get this figured out. Also, if you are at 17 volts and been there for a while, you probably fried your battery. That could explain why it is not holding a charge. You have 2 problems; one is the overvoltage when the motor is running, and the other is the discharge while the motor is off. One thing that can happen often with this sort of problem is a bad ground or other bad wire connections. Remove the ground wire from your battery to engine and clean the connection points with a wire brush real well. Do the same with the wire that connects your engine to the chassis, it is in the back next to the firewall. I would focus on getting the correct operating voltage, then take your car to any shop and have the battery load tested. This will tell you if the battery is still good. Regulators are cheap and easy to change, so I would try that after you get connections cleaned. If that does not solve your problem, it is going to be a lot more dificult and we will cross that bridge when we get to it.

If you really are at 17 volts, there is a chance you could blow up your CD player. I would unplug it until you get this figured out. Also, if you are at 17 volts and been there for a while, you probably fried your battery. That could explain why it is not holding a charge. You have 2 problems; one is the overvoltage when the motor is running, and the other is the discharge while the motor is off. One thing that can happen often with this sort of problem is a bad ground or other bad wire connections. Remove the ground wire from your battery to engine and clean the connection points with a wire brush real well. Do the same with the wire that connects your engine to the chassis, it is in the back next to the firewall. I would focus on getting the correct operating voltage, then take your car to any shop and have the battery load tested. This will tell you if the battery is still good. Regulators are cheap and easy to change, so I would try that after you get connections cleaned. If that does not solve your problem, it is going to be a lot more dificult and we will cross that bridge when we get to it.

I thought Randall's racks were from about a 94 Chevy Cavaliar. I did not know there was a difference in what Randalls supplied. I will double check, but that is what I recall. The rack was used on a lot of GM cars from that era other than Cavaliar, so your rack could be from one of the similar models. You might go to a parts store and see what the Cavaliar hoses are like.

I thought Randall's racks were from about a 94 Chevy Cavaliar. I did not know there was a difference in what Randalls supplied. I will double check, but that is what I recall. The rack was used on a lot of GM cars from that era other than Cavaliar, so your rack could be from one of the similar models. You might go to a parts store and see what the Cavaliar hoses are like.

LindenBruce summed it up. If you are going to do some of the work yourself, you can also save money other ways. 1. I made my crossmember in about 2 hours from scrap sitting around the garage. They are easy to do. 2. You should not need to shorten the driveshaft if you get the yoke from the car with the AOD. I understand some cars had different yokes, so look into which is best to work with a 69 driveshaft. 3. One thing not mentioned is the electrical connection for backup lite in reverse and started interlock in neutral and park. Again, easy to make if you get the cable from the donor aod car. So keep watching and accumulate the parts over time, and make the swap sometime later.

LindenBruce summed it up. If you are going to do some of the work yourself, you can also save money other ways. 1. I made my crossmember in about 2 hours from scrap sitting around the garage. They are easy to do. 2. You should not need to shorten the driveshaft if you get the yoke from the car with the AOD. I understand some cars had different yokes, so look into which is best to work with a 69 driveshaft. 3. One thing not mentioned is the electrical connection for backup lite in reverse and started interlock in neutral and park. Again, easy to make if you get the cable from the donor aod car. So keep watching and accumulate the parts over time, and make the swap sometime later.

Yes, if you assume your truck is worth $1500, that is on the high side to pay for a 69 coupe in pieces. The odds are that a lot of parts are missing that will need to be replaced. If you have the time, then it could be considered. But if it needs paint, then probably not. If it was a 69 coupe with a whole boatload of original options, then it could be worthwhile. But a standard coupe.... probably not.

Yes, if you assume your truck is worth $1500, that is on the high side to pay for a 69 coupe in pieces. The odds are that a lot of parts are missing that will need to be replaced. If you have the time, then it could be considered. But if it needs paint, then probably not. If it was a 69 coupe with a whole boatload of original options, then it could be worthwhile. But a standard coupe.... probably not.

I looked again, and my factory schematics are for a 69. That explains why you see it. Color code 706 is not in mine, and neither was the factory fader. So you have some sort of factory speaker system wires. Maybe you should ask Midlife about a mating connector or harness?

I looked again, and my factory schematics are for a 69. That explains why you see it. Color code 706 is not in mine, and neither was the factory fader. So you have some sort of factory speaker system wires. Maybe you should ask Midlife about a mating connector or harness?

The ones in 69 are like this, but different. Cougar parts catalog also has them in their site. All it is is a piece of steel that make contact to the latch when the door is not completely closed so it gounds out the wire connection.

The ones in 69 are like this, but different. Cougar parts catalog also has them in their site. All it is is a piece of steel that make contact to the latch when the door is not completely closed so it gounds out the wire connection.

Oh... so this was a rebuilt harness by Midlife? Is it possible they added something? Can you see where the light grey wire comes out of the harness? Look everywhere there is wires without tape and see if you can find the grey wire. I have the factory color codes for wires in 69/70, and grey was not a color they used then. Could Midlife have added the speaker fader wires? Does the light grey wire go to where the radio connects???

Oh... so this was a rebuilt harness by Midlife? Is it possible they added something? Can you see where the light grey wire comes out of the harness? Look everywhere there is wires without tape and see if you can find the grey wire. I have the factory color codes for wires in 69/70, and grey was not a color they used then. Could Midlife have added the speaker fader wires? Does the light grey wire go to where the radio connects???

The Cougars had a switch built into the latch mechanism that latches when the door is closed. This was used for the door ajar light. That way even though the door is open even 1/4 inch, the door ajar switch will know it. The door open switches for interior lights will not see the door as open with that small of a distance. The switch was not at all the same as the door open switch. So I am wondering what the switches are the coke89 got?

The Cougars had a switch built into the latch mechanism that latches when the door is closed. This was used for the door ajar light. That way even though the door is open even 1/4 inch, the door ajar switch will know it. The door open switches for interior lights will not see the door as open with that small of a distance. The switch was not at all the same as the door open switch. So I am wondering what the switches are the coke89 got?