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Everything posted by danno

  1. I just installed a new master, and bench bled it. The front was pumping right away, but the back took a lot of pumping before fluid started flowing. I am not sure why. Once installed, I could see fluid coming from the rear bleed screw. You might want to try the bench bleed.
  2. Yes, but you might need that tape measure to hang that photo on the wall.
  3. Spam it of course a Minnesota landmark food item. Like General Mills cereals and Land of lakes diary products. This disgusting food product has made us famous. Still serve widely in Hawaii. It works well to pack your wheel bearings with it.
  4. I can't be sure, but it looks like a tape measure to me.
  5. Jay, OK, I will keep working on my system as it is. I have completed new calipers and Napa pads in front. One new caliper in back. New master, new hoses, rebuilt the distri valve. It still is not stopping the car that great. The pedal travel is 2.04 inches for a 1970, I assume the same for 69. I am not getting that. I get about 1.8 or 1.9 inches. If I loosen the master cylinder bolts, I still get the same travel. So for me maybe the master is not getting fully depressed. So my problem could be a bad booster? I am going to order a new Bendix rebuilt from Steve at Power Brake Booster Exchange. I have 3 old ones I can send in on exchange.
  6. What parts do you need? I could probably part with some.
  7. I am not worried about the heat, as I am just a daily driver on the freeways in Minneapolis. What are the more aggressive pads? It is good to hear they have the potential to work better. It was about 20 years ago I fought the same problem with the power steering. I did all the upgrades and got everything as good as it could be. In 1969 it was probably ok, but not in 1999. So I installed rack and pinion, and it was the greatest thing I have done to improve driveablity. I just do not want to spend a whole bunch of time and money, and still have something substandard. So it sounds like the brakes will be better than the steering. I will let you know how it goes.
  8. I am in the process now of installing new calipers, new master, and new pads. recently install new hoses to the wheels and rear axel rebuilt the proportioning valve. I have bought the cheap pads already, I could try others if they might work better. If the factory power disc brakes can lock up the front wheels ( or close to it) if everything is correct, I will continue with getting the system as good as possible. But if even a perfect factory system is not that great, maybe I should switch to an aftermarket system? Barnett, what is a good set of pads, and where do I get them?
  9. Sorry to bring this up again, but I also have factory power disc front, drum rears. I have never been satisfied with them. I want to be able to lock up the front wheels in a panic stop, and they will not do it. The consensus here seems that the factory system is fine. Is the problem something in my system?
  10. Still not sold. Price reduced again. Now $1140 plus shipping for those purchasing from me using this forum.
  11. Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items. Brakes and steering first. Some of the prices and items seem way out of line. Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items. Repair things as they break.
  12. I had thought of this on mine. The pressure idea could work, but I was thinking of a timer. Press the button to go up, and it turns on the pump to go up for 8.5 seconds. Press the button to go down and it reverses the pump and runs for 6.3 seconds. I know this will work, but it would mean designing the electrical timer and putting it together. The other method is with limit switches. When you press the button to go up, the pump runs until the top triggers a switch to tell the motor to shut off. This would require some method of attaching switches to detect when it is all the way up or down. I also wanted to do this on my power windows. Then connect it all to the trunk release button on my remote control door unlock button. I press the button on my remote control, and all 4 windows go down and the top goes down. I will get to it in the next 30 years, when I have time. Dreaming takes little time; I can do that today.
  13. Mach1driver has a great suggestion. Use those.
  14. That is a real shame they got tossed out. The other problem I can see is getting the wire connections on the end of the wires through the little hole in them. I have a cable with the grommets molded onto it. Does Painless have a solution?
  15. The metal clasp might really sting. Better to use a flyswatter. I wish I could have been so lucky.
  16. I am surprised nobody wants these. They could probably be used to fix front belts, or use them on your bicycle!
  17. The price for buyers on this forum is now $1210 plus shipping. It has been reduced to $1280 on fleebay. Again, you must purchase from me direct to get this price. The first person to offer my price wins the bid, if it is someone on this forum, Vintagemustang, or fleebay.
  18. I had to laugh at your typo, because I do feel like driving on fat ground after some of those evening dinners on the road :-) I do not have a way to measure vacuum, but will see what the mileage is like in the next weeks when I am driving on the fat ground. Thank you!
  19. I still think the grommets could still be on the wires, just jammed inside the door or door frame. Why would they be missing?
  20. I also see that at least 3 of those columns shown are column shift cars, so they are not a Mustang or Cougar. The D0AA is a 1970 Ford Truck, the D1AA is a 1971 Truck. The column lengths , guts, and some parts will be different on those. But the critical parts for the tilt are the same.
  21. No kidding, patience! I must have had the lower plate off and on 20 times. I am not aware of any adjustments on the vacuum advance. Don't you just hook it up? Will adjusting make that much difference?
  22. I have a used one if you want it.
  23. Adam, West Coast Classic Cougar fixes columns, and they will also buy the columns with tilt that you do not want. They typically pay about 25% to 50% of what they sell the parts for. But maybe Maybe you could negotiate parts for repairs? Send them an email or call and see what they say. It is certainly worth calling them. I can also walk you through it. It could be a very simple fix.
  24. Ok, I now have it at: 10 degrees at 700 (engine rpm), 13 at 1000, 20 at 1500, and 22 at 2000. 23 is max at 2200. So it is very, very close. So at 1000 and 1500 it is just a hair low. I find that bending the things that the springs attach to makes a delicate difference. It makes no noticeable difference in engine speed by advancing the timing 4 degrees at any engine speed, including 2800. Shall I call this good enough for an every day driver, or ( as long as I am working on it) get it perfect.
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