danno

Your tach might not work with the wires you have. Someone makes an adapter to allow you to use a factory tach with the electronic ignition you have on you 5.0. Usually there is no single wire on a 5.0 efi setup, but maybe you have it? If you can find one wire on your ignition coil that goes to the 12 volts ( when the key is in the run position), then break this wire and install the tach in it. But you have to be real careful with the polarity, you do not want to get the wires backwards. They will work backwards for a few seconds, but might not survive minutes of operation. So try it both ways, each way for a few seconds to see if you can get it to work. But you might need the adapter. I think CJ might have it.

This new alternator could be working ok, it is just regulating at a lower voltage. If you read 12.67 with the lights off, then you turn the lights on and it stays the same, that tells me it is charging. If it was not, you would see a lower voltage when you turn on the lights. Leave it running for a few minutes with the lights on high beam, and the heater fan on high. Then watch the voltage; if it stays the same after a 2 minutes, your alternator is working. Also watch for the voltage when the engine is revved up. If the voltage increases, that says either the pully on the alternator is too large, or it might not be working. You can also take your alternator to some shops to have it tested, to verify it is ok.

If the tranny was off the car, and it got stood on an end or rolled to one side or the other, there is a chance the fluid got out of place. Some of the valves might not have fluid in them. This is typically not a symptom of low on fluid, when that happens the car will not move at all when you put it in Drive. Is it a standard C4, or is it a C6 or a AOD?

I sold a non-Mustang mirror recently that will work on a Mustang. I will see if I can find the part number tonight. As mentioned, some from other cars work well, some do not.

If you are looking for something cheaper, some Tbird, Torino, or other racing mirrors will work on a 69 or 70 Mustang. But some have a different angle, and will not sit correct on the car.

I was curious about those things, so I opened up my old one to see if I could do anything with it. What a mess of pieces and individual ball bearings. All the pieces are sitting in a box, never to be put back together. Without knowing what is worn and what is good, it is hard to know how to repair it. If I had a perfectly good one all in pieces, I would be able to figure it out. Until then, mine will sit on the shelf, collecting dust, like all my other old parts.

The oil light is connnected to the +12 volts that comes on the circuit board, and the other side connects to ground through the pressure switch. With the instrument panel removed, you should be able to follow the circuit traces just by looking at them and figure out which of the "fingers" at the connector is the one that connects to each side of the oil light. Then use your battery charger and touch it to these 2 points to see if you can get the light to turn on. I will bet it will not. I think the same 12 volts that goes to your oil light also goes to your constant voltage regulator for your temp gauge, so if that works, you are at least getting voltage to the hot side of the oil light.

With the key in the "run" position, both side of every fuse should have 12 volts. If only one side of a fuse has voltage, the fuse is blown. This is the place to start. You could have a bad key switch, because the voltage goes from the battery, to the key switch, then to the fuse panel. 2 of the fuses do not go through the key switch, the should have voltage on them even if the key is off. For the oil pressure light, if you disconnect the wire that attached to the oil pressure sense switch ( near the fuel pump), and short between this wire connector and ground, the oil light should go on. You also need the key in the "run" position. If you put a voltmeter in this cable connector pin, you should get 12 volts.

When I was going through this, I put a huge C Clamp on the pitman arm (output linkage of the steering box) so it would not move. I clamped it to some part of the frame. Then I turned the wheel to see how much I could, so the only source of play has to be in the steering box and column. I have a tilt column, and they also can have play in the universal joint in the tilt part. With this clamped, I realized how much play I had, so I bought a new steering box. The new steering box was not much better, so I gave up on the factory system and went with the rack and pinion. The factory steering in 1969 was just not very good. It is very difficult to get an old system to perform like the new ones. Better to upgrade.

You maybe can take your old link to Autozone and see if they have the same size. A fuseable link is really nothing more than a piece of wire. In theory, the way it is supposed to work is the link is a smaller wire size than the rest of the wires in that circuit. If you have a short circuit or overload on the wires, the weakest place in the wires will burn up first. The weakest point is the link. The link often has a insulation that will not catch fire, because that wire will get really hot for a period of time before the wire actually opens like a blown fuse. And solder it in to your existing harness, do not just wrap the wires. I also would recommend double layers of shrink tube to cover the solder joint when done.

Jim said it all quite well. An earlier post was asking about why I switched to a Rack. I did so because I like power steering, and the system from 1969 had flaws built into it. 20 years ago I went through my entire factory system, all new parts, and got it as best as could be. With all this effort it was at best still marginal. Great by the standards of 1969, marginal my the standards of today. I drive in Minneapolis traffic every day, and want something more precise. So Rack was the way I went. I made my decision for rack and pinion in 2004 and started looking. At the time, Randall was about the only option. He was also a lot cheaper then. Now you have a lot more options. Knowing now about all the mistakes made, what worked and what did not, makes the job of doing it yourself easier. Goo luck! Go for it!

It sure sounds like you have a dimmer switch problem. And all for headlights are on for high beam. There are 2 filaments in each of the low beam light bulbs, one for high and one for low. So the low beam light bulbs might have one filament broken so maybe it looks like it works for the high beam and does not for the low beam.

This modification will definately work fine. It is exactly the rack and pinion used by the kit supplied by Randalls Rack, I have that in my car. The only down side is that turning radius is a bit worse. So you can either get the rack and make or find all the pieces to fit it to your car, or buy the kit that has all the pieces already supplied.

The Mallory disti must have some electronics somewhere, maybe in it? Is there an external box connected to it? Where does this box get it's operating voltage? Do you just have the one wire from the coil to the disti?

I doubt Ford did it that way, at least I have never seen it. On top could be better, the wires will not get as hot, and they will be more out of the way when you work on the car. Just make sure the hood does not hit the wires when closed. You do not want the hood rubbing against the wires and wearing of the insulation.

The 8.09 v is lower than it should be. Is it correct that you do not have electronic ignition? Try disconnecting your coil and see if it goes up significantly. It certainly should. But back to Bruce's point, if you have spark on the plugs, it certainly does not look like an electrical problem.

Are you asking about a 69 or 70? Front or back side marker ( only 1070 had front). The brake light is a standard 1157 bulb, and the front is a amber color 1157 bulb. I am not sure about the side marker bulbs.

The wire for the intruments lights goes from the switch to the fuse. After the fuse, it goes to these places -instrument panel -heater swithc light -radio panel light -clock light The clock light connector is above the glovebox, it is a blue with red strip wire. The radio panel light connector is on the left side of the glove box. Make sure neither of these is connected to or touching ground. When you put the fuse in and it blew, did you have anything ( like the instrument panel) connected? I know that the instrument panel tested ok when it was removed from the car, but just because it worked when removed does NOT mean it will work when reinstalled. The instrument panel can have a short between the +voltage and the metal frame it sits in. This short between the + and case will not cause any problem with it is removed, but as soon as you re-connect everything, it will blow the fuse. So assuming you have absolutely nothing connected, and you still blow the fuse ( or measure it as low continuity), then you have a bad wire somewhere. Start at the 5 ends mentioned above, and follow it back to the fuse block. You might have some work done be a previous owner that might have been some modifications to the factory wires. Look for the radio connector, that is where it often happens when an aftermarket radio is installed. Do NOT cut the panel wires and make your own. It is frustrating, but take it one step at a time.

The heat in the postive terminal of the battery is a real good clue. I would disconnect the wire from the solenoid to the started, just in case you have a starter problem. Next I would get the lights working, with the key switch off. The heat in the battery terminal tells me it is not making a good connection. Take that cable off, make sure the battery is fully charged and it is a good battery. Then clean the battery post with a wire brush, and clean the inside of the battery post clamp ( on your cable) with a wire brush. Connect it all back up, and see if you have lights. I would also recommend getting a voltmeter, they can be bought for under $10. When you try these things, report back, and we will proceed to the next step.

Yes, I cannot imagine why they needed a different harness for a 6 cylinder car. That is the notes I had on it, and they could be wrong. Maybe someone with a master parts catelog could solve the mystery. 1970 was when they started doing funky things for air pollution, but that should have only been under the hood.

Do you have rim blow or standard style? If you remove the steering wheel pad, you will see some wires that go to the switch. If you short these 2 wire, the horn should blow. The horn wire should be the blue/yellow wire on the half moon shaped connector that connects to the steering column. Get a jumper wire, and connect one end to 12 volts and touch the other end to this wire. Your horn should blow. If they do not, you have a problem with the wires from this connector to the horn, or the horns. I will bet you need to remove the steering wheel and look at the connections to the horn rings.

They had a standard heater box, they had the one with AC, and they also had a "Power Ventilation" option. I thought it would have used the same wires as the standard heater box, but maybe not? My notes are for a 69, because that is what I have. In that year they had 5 different part numbers. C9ZZ-14401 is the basic, and a -B is with a tach, -AC was for a 6 cylinder, -AF is a V8, -AJ is for a V8 Deluxe and AC, and a -BK was tach and AC. The style C is definately from a AC car, because of the little green wire on the fan switch. The green wire goes to the AC mode switch. The AC mode switch is on only when the heater control lever is in the AC mode. It then goes to the thermostat and on to the compressor clutch. But why is there 2 connectors to the resistor/fan??? Maybe this is for the power vent option? Maybe it had an extra fan in it?

The continuity measurements are screwing with you. Continuity is measuring correct, but that is not working for what you need. You measure the continuity from across a light bulb, and it will look like a short. Yet you put 12 volts on it, and it lights up. When you are doing the continuity measurements, you are essentially measuring across the light bulbs in the circuit. You have to unplug all bulbs on a circuit to check continuity. And that means almost every bulb on headlights circuit to allow a continuity check. So don't count on that. Also, when you turn the switch, you will see the voltage drop if everything is normal and connected. Without the instrument panel lights NOT connected, you will not see the voltage drop as you turn the knob. If you need to check continuity of the instrument lights circuit, do so with the fuse out. You have to unplug the heater switch light, radio light, and clock light ( if you have one). Then measure contunity, and it should be good.

What he said... the headlight harness is on the radiator support, nowhere near the firewall. Do you mean the main engine compartment wire harness, that goes to the connector by the brake master cylinder? The bolt that Ry talked about is on the fuse panel. Unscrew that bolt, and the main engine wire harness will then unplug from the underdash harness.

Yes, the flextapes on the instrument panel often can short to the chassis right behind it. Remember that even with the instrument panel disconnected, the easy way to see if the fuse and wires are good is to look at the light for the heater contol. It is on the same circuit, so if it works your fuse and most of the wires are ok. I would start by removing all 8 of the bulbs that light it up, and look for one of them that is different from the others. If you have some alligator clips and a batery charger, hook voltage up to the flextape where the lights connect, and plug in the lights one at a time. If you can do all this and the lights work, report back to us for the next step.