danno

In case you are interested, the electric trunk release from a 87 Crown Vic might bolt right up to your 67 to 73 Mustang. If it looks like this one, you are in luck. I know the ones in a 1985 Crown would, not sure about 1987. It is one of the mods that dozens of us on this forum have done.

I will have a 1969 tilt and "break away" column. I have put together all the pieces and still need to do the final assembly and testing. I have slowly gathered all the parts needed for one, the last parts I needed I got off of a 1968 Tbird. I will be offering it here first when I get it done in February. So if you are in the market for one, stay tuned. They last one I sold here was for $550, so be prepared. It takes a lot of work to gather the parts. Trips to the salvage yards and finding individual parts on fleabay.

No worries, as a newby you are allowed to overlook the obvious. Those Grandes dont get the attention they deserve. The front turn signals were under the bumber. Are the turn signals missing? There are connections on the wiring harness under the hood for the turn signals. There is a 3 pin connector on each side under each horn, at the bottom of the radiator. This connector connects to the light.

I also noticed the freon lines to the evaporator crossing the engine on top of the radiator. I know this is not correct. It has nothing to do with the noise, and maybe it is fine, but it is a symptom that someone has changed the system from the factory settings. What else has changed? Was this an aftermarket add on system?

I noticed something in the photo provided. I am not sure have the idler pulley installed correctly. Maybe it works this way for the belt you have, but it does not look correct. My car is stored for the winter, so I cannot be sure.

The belts will vibrate at high speed when the AC is on. It is a large distance from the Compressor to the crank on the side next to the power steering, and that can start vibrating at certain speeds. You can see it easily when you rev up the engine in Park with the AC on. You will see the belt vibrate a lot. That easily happens on a loose or old belt. There is also a bearing on the idler pulley. Remove tension on the belt and insure it spins freely without a lot of wiggle. If it is not the belt, then maybe the clutch bearing. As in understand it, you can replace this without needing to evacuate and recharge the freon. If none of these ideas work, put on some good tunes and turn up the volume on the radio.

Yes, I kind of assumed you tried the easiest things first. 1 Good battery 2 Clean battery posts and cables. . 3 Good solenoid. 4 Good starter wire cable. 5 Good ground from battery to engine. These are easy to check and verify they are working before replacing the starter.

I am wondering if the starter has bad. A similar thing happened to me. The brushes in the motor were not making good contact when they were hot, and so it would not start when it was hot. It would start when the starter motor cooled off. If it happens again ( not starting when the engine is hot) have a bunch of water with you. Dump a bunch of water on the starter to cool it off. Then see if it starts. You have to be careful not to get water on the exhaust or engine block, but just on the starter.

Excellent suggestions. Do the wiggle jiggle while you are sensing if a connector is getting hot. Midlife can set you up with a new connector if you need it.

OK, if both headlights and not the taillights are doing this is can only be the following 1 light switch 2 headlight dimmer switch 3 connection between under dash harness and under hood harness. Pull up the carpet on the dimmer switch and examine it for a solid or weak connection. Mach 1 driver called it Wiggle, I call it Jiggle. Maybe what you call it depends on where you live or what you are jiggling? But I say it now looks like the most likely contributor to this is the headlight switch. The simple solution is to be home before sundown.

New aftermarket ones like this are $180 at CJ pony parts, and they have some that look similar on top but different under the hood. They aret $90.

I now see a couple minor blemishes in the chrome. Chrome not peeling, but they are present. the red arrows point to them

These were on my car when I got it, and as I have a 69, I took them off. Have been in my garage for 40 years, time to get rid of things. New aftermarket ones are $90. The chrome is not perfect, it has the usual minor scratches, but all chrome is there. Is $50 reasonable?

I understand this. If the brake light works, that means the headlight switch is connected and getting 12 volts. If the PRND light works, that also means the switch is getting 12 volts, but it also means the switch is ( at least partially) working. Just using these to narrow it down a bit.

As a part of troiubleshooting this, the next time it happens find out if the taillights are working, and if PRDL indicator light is working. The PRDL shifter indicator light does not use the dimmer, so that will narrow it down. Do you have brake lights when this happens? If you do, then you know you a good connection from the battery to the headlight switch, because the power for the brake lights goes through the headlight switch. Then start doing the jiggle. Jiggle the connectors on your headlight switch and fusebox at firewall connector. Do you have a headlight relay? A lot of us have installed a headlight relay for brighter headlights. If you have one, that could be it?

You must like projects. You already have the best cars available to mankind, yet you step back to the simple 70 coupe. It is so great to see another one of us who appreciates the old metal.

+1 on the cutting oil. Absolutely necessary when drilling through hard metals like steel.

This certainly looks very much like the original. Who makes this? Anyone who knows the cars would realize the dash is not original, but it is so close. The original tach cluster had a trip odometer ( which itself is extremely rare in 1969) and a temp gauge. But what you have is so good! Who makes it?

I do not see any crack joints in the slab. In Minnesota you need them about every 10 feet. What about pouring a fresh 2 inches on top of this? About 10 years ago I did that with stairs I have and it has worked fine. They also have other plastic materials that will bond to concrete. I have used it to repair sidewalks. Maybe a thick layer of that? I have no idea if it would work on a surface this size. It is truly a shame But the Bronco looks great. What a machine that will be for some lucky person.

Yes, stated value insurance is certainly an option. There is a cost of high stated value insurance over "book" value. I am not sure what that is. I used to have stated value, but changed to the book value Hemmings places on mine. The "book" value is really vague, I would think if mine was stolen I would not get what it is really worth. Insurance companies do not like stated value because that is what people use when they want to use when there car is magically stolen. Like buying life insurance when you are 90 years old. You can do it, but it is very costly. The only way my car could be stolen is with a tow truck. Possible... yes. So whether you go with locks and alarms, tracking, or insurance, you need something.

OK, good to know it works. It is certainly cheaper than spending $200 initially and then $30 a month on a service to do the same thing.

You are correct, the resistors are the same for cars with and without AC.

It should work, as long as the resistors are intact and you know the correct way to connect the fan. Use an ohmmeter on the leads to insure the resistors are good.

That is exactly what I was thinking, thanks for filling in details. I am sure it can be done on a generic phone also. Maybe make a plastic enclosure for it and mount it under the trunk? I think if it was inside the trunk it would not work, because it is completely surrounded by a metal enclosure. Or maybe in the area behind the headlights under a fender?

Yes, power seats that look like they came with the car. I will add to me Christmas list for next year.