danno

sold

Photo order got messed up. The first photo is what this will work to replace. Look at all photos.

I have an electric trunk release that will work in any Mustang or Cougar between 1967 and 1973. It was taken off of a later model full size Ford. I attached new and better wires. If your present one looks like the one in the photo with the ruler, this will work to replace it. I can add wire connections to the switch. They round switch is included in the price, the chrome switch can be bought for an additional $5. Price is $56, plus $9 shipping in USA or $28 Canada, or $38 to almost anywhere else in the world. Paypal is fine. The photo of my switch and how to mount it under the driver's seat is show. The pushbutton mounts in the plastic box and slide the plate under the seat track. Run the wires under the carpet. This is just one option for the switch, you might have others. I can provide the box and plate to mount it under the seat for another $5.

The fan switch is different for an AC car or Non AC car. The AC switch has a connection on it that goes to the compressor through the thermometer switch. That way the compressor can be fully on no matter what the fan speed switch is set at. If your switch is correct and wired correct, then you have a different issue. The different issue could be dirty contacts in the fuse block. But we can cross this when you find out about the switch.

My 69 Vert has factory tilt/breakaway, and many years ago I acquired a second complete tilt assembly for the Mach 1 I was going to build. The Mach 1 never happened, and I was considering parting with the tilt system, if you are interested. I have seen them on fleabay for about $900.

If west coast does not have them, I think I made one for mine.

I'm with 69 Mach. I would never believe it until it happened to me, but it was a coil issue. Check for spark, it is an easy thing to verify. If it has spark, then carb. I am not a carb guy, I have a 2100 in my 302. Very simple.

What are we doing on a perfect Saturday night wondering about the turn signal wires? At least in Minneapolis it is a nice night, but I happen to be home with not much more to do. I could understand it to be hot in Florida, but in San Diego it must also be a nice night? From what I understand, there is a fuse in the fuse block for turn signals. It also controls other things.

Does this fuse only exist in 1970 models? I do not remember it in a 69.

Anyone who knows enough about these cars to steal them would probably be able to figure this out. It is better than nothing, and will certainly slow them down . You think about it, and I could hotwire any 69 Ford and drive it away in 30 seconds. How did they ever get by with that back then? There are other ways to do it, with the ignition coil. Put the same switch on the wire to the distributor. Have it ground all the time the switch is on, and the car will not start. It requires one extra wire from the coil to under the dash to the hidden switch. Very simple and very effective.

I stand corrected. You are correct again, almighty one. There is a ground wire, but perhaps it has been disconnected or broken off? I think it goes to a screw lug by the door? If the high beam lamp turns on like it should, then you are getting a ground and my idea does not matter. Turn on the headlights, rotate the light switch all the way CCw until it clicks, and then check the voltage on the blue wire with the red stripe on it.

By the way, LEDs have a definate polarity. It would be odd that all of them would be backwards, so the next thing is that there is no voltage to them. Do what Randy said, check for voltage on the headlight switch.

I hate to state the obvious, but you MUST have a connection between the metal chassis that the whole thing is mounted on and the chassis of the car. There is no ground connection in the wire connection that plugs into the flex assembly that has 14 wires. It would have cost Ford an extra 5 flippin cents, so they are relying on the screws to make the connection. When you are probing around and testing with it in these photos, you must have a ground wire connecting the metal to ground. I am guessing you are, but if you are not, that could explain it.

I would like to withdraw my previous statement. Is that allowed? After reviewing your previous post and the history of the car, you definitely have the pride thing twice over. Never mind about the money, pride cannot be bought with it. You have a great Grande with the potential to be a lot of fun for many years. I have had my 69 convertible for 36 years now, and keeps on going. For you, in 10 years the money will be trivial, and the pride will still be with you. If you can, take your time and do it right.

Sometimes it is something a lot more valuable than money that we all have gained. Pride and knowledge. Pride in knowing what we have accomplished to make it right, and knowledge in knowing to never do it again. We are with you on this, whatever your decision.

Please excuse my self promotion, but I am putting a set of original factory 1970 hood locks on ebay. If anyone wants them, you have until August 16 to win the bid. At least you know you are getting them from a trusted source.

I have an extra floor automatic shift lever and assembly. Chrome has very minor pitting. It was lose, so I added the new flat washer and it works fine. You can see the washer in the photo as the shiney part. It will cost $14 to ship it in USA, or I will ship worldwide. I hate to toss it, but I will if nobody wants it.

As with the above comments, that seems like a high price. Add maybe $500 to ship down under, and it gets costly. As with det0226, I did mine for about $250 for everything I needed. You should be able to find a used AOD for maybe $100-$200, and then buy the correct parts for your application.

1) it seems like it is the turn signal or emergency flasher switch. disconnect the turn signal switch at the half moon connector under the steering column. Short the green wire ( it comes from the brake switch) to the orange &blue wire. Then press the brake, and you should get the right rear brake light to turn on. If this works, then something is wrong with the connections in the turn signal switch. If this does not work, then check back on more ideas 2) there is a ground that is not connected. It is a bunch of black wires that are under a screw somewhere under the radiator. I have a 69, and it is a different location on a 70. Look for the bunch of black wires with tied together. 3) same thing as 2) above. No ground on the headlights will cause this exact thing. I know why, but it is difficult to explain. 4) dash lights go through a fuse, and that is probably the issue. Turn the dash light dimmer all the way up and measure the voltage on the little short fuse in the fuse block. You should have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse when the lights are supposed to be on 5) again, probably a bad ground for the bulbs. not sure where the ground connection is, but that is probably it. If you take the bulb out and measure the voltage, it will probably be 12 volts. With the bulb in, it would be less. 6) More than likely low voltage. Make sure the voltage on the battery is at least 12.5 volts with the engine off, 14 volts with the engine running. If you have these voltages, again, a bad ground could do it. Verify you have a good connection between the battery minus and the engine, and you MUST also have a ground wire between the engine and the chassis. If you are missing this separate single ground wire, that explains a lot. In a 1969 it bolts to the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall. report on these and get back to us.

There is a smart ass in every crowd, we have our share here!

Darkness is good. The woman I am with looks better in dim light.

The wealth of knowledge on this site continues to amaze me. Bob and others, your assistance makes it easier for grumpies like me who know so little by comparison.

it is my understanding what you are attempting will not work. You cannot put disc hubs on drum spindles. I do not know if I would want to trust the forces in a custom caliper bracket in a hard stop. There can be a lot of force, in the caliper, you better be sure of your welding. With the Granada hubs, you get it all. Even if you do the whole hub, be careful with the year of Granada. Some had larger openings for the upper ball joint and steering arm where it attaches to the tie rod. Some Granada front hubs just bolt right on, others require some additional work.

It is no fun competing against a know it all. I was going to try a wild ass guess, but why bother? I had my hand raised, but I was in the back row and not noticed. Can you identify the motor? a 5.0?