danno

I have had a NAPA rebuilt alt in my car for years with no problems. But I am never more than 20 miles away from a NAPA store if it needs replacement. I would also guess new ones are really cheap, unless you need a high amp alternator or a single wire one. The reasons you might need a high amp alternator is if you have halogen headlights or an electric radiator fan. Both of those are large power hogs. A amplifier for your radio typically does not take that much power. A lot of people think it does, but that is not reality. So a standard 60 amp alternator could work fine, I have used it for 30 years, even with AC, high power amplifiers, and halogen headlights. A solid state regulator is a good idea at the same time. It is also a good idea to insure all the wires and connectors are secure and clean. Send your engine harness to Midlife and have him check it over, that will remove all doubt. Get on the road, summer is coming!

I have my system that works from a pushbutton on a gas valve. It would also work on the ignition disconnect ideas. Use a relay to carry the current so no big switch is needed. Then every time the car is started, you need to push the hidden button to allow it to run. I can explain more, if needed. There are a lot of great suggestions already.

I also have one, and the bulb socket and wire, if Randy cannot find his.

12 ohms seems about right. There is a lot of tolerance when making these low resistance measurements. Corrosion on the wire connectors can add a couple ohms.

Ridge, this is a great story. I understand your loss of your nephew, it is terrible to go through such a thing. I lost my brother 10 years ago to a similar situation. You try to do all you can to make their time as valuable as you can. Even if he could not drive it, he could dream. I am sure he still does. Thanks for sharing.

You might check to see if the AC compressor clutch turns on. Turn the car on, and put in the AC mode, and fan on about medium speed. The AC clutch should engauge. If it does, that tells you the power is getting to the fan switch. What is common is for wires to break, or contacts in the fuse block to corrode. You need to check to see if you have 12volts on the yellow wire on the fan switch. Also check to see that the connection to the resistors did not get disconnected. It is behind the glove box somewhere. If you haven't been in there dinging around, that is probably not it.

From VIc's idea, maybe a monster shop vac? thy with the hood up and flat. Flat will require removing it. Or maybe that expanding foam sealant. Fill all the holes with it? Or go have a beer and be thankful you have such simple problems!

The second paragraph above is about your reverse light. Let us know what you find.

I also did not have any trouble with my long tube headers on a 302. I have rack and pinion steering and an AOD tranny, and neither created any complications. Maybe we were both lucky with the ones we chose?

Mine conv top also has trouble going up. I thougth there was air in the lines, but could not fill it anymore and working it up and down does not seem to improve it much. Is it possible that after 50 years it is worn out? I tell you, they just to not make new things that last that long. That is probably up and down maybe 3000 times at 60 times an average of 60 times a year. I am on my second top. The factory one lasted until 1985, I had the one on it now installed in 1985 that is still on. It is showing weakness, though, so I need to consider doing it also. I am watching this for progress reports and details in case I decide to do it myself.

That brown wire provides full voltage to the ignition coil during start. I cannot imagine what would have fried this other than it getting connected to ground when power was on. The wire could be completely burnt open. The car will probably start and run without it, it helps start the car when it is cold or if plugs are old by providing a hotter spark while cranking the engine. It could have shorted to the chassis somewhere along it. That wire goes through the main connector block by the fuseblock and then to the engine harness. You might check for continuity between the end of this wire at the solenoid and the ignition coil. It should be under 10 ohms. Get a piece of wire, and connect one end to the +12 volts on the battery. with the switch to the tranny disconnected, touch the other end to the wire to the connector that goes through the firewall. When you connect 12 volts to one of those wires, you should get the backup lights to work. The turn signals go to the same fuse, do they also work fine?

Yes, either the DPDT switch or the diode idea will work. The diode might be easier, because you already have the swtiches. Something like a 6A10T from Diodes Inc. It is available from DigiKey for 47 cents each. it is a 6 amp part, that will work fine for you. The link is below. https://www.digikey.com/products/en/discrete-semiconductor-products/diodes-rectifiers-single/280?k=6a10t&k=&pkeyword=6a10t&sv=0&v=31&sf=0&FV=ffe00118&quantity=2&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

I can maybe help you out, but I will need more information. I need to know more about these wires. How many wires does the Rostra system have, and where to the wires connect? It looks like the pump has one harness to the switch, and probably another wire to the +12v, and one last wire to ground? Is this the case? How many wires go to the switch? It would seem to me that the Rostra switch is a On-Off-On momentary contact switch, just like the switch used for convertibles that goes in the same location. You should be able to use any On-Off-On switch and connect the wires the same way the rostra switch is connected.

I understand completely. You have done your work on it. I was just pointing it out, in case you had not.

Years ago I purchased parts for my car from a guy who lived North of Austin. He had a large quantity of Mustangs and Fords that he was parting out. I cannot remember his name, and I doubt he is on the internet. I have no idea what happened to all his cars, maybe he still has them? You might ask in the main forum for his name, and I will look and see if I can find anything on him.

I can stop by Sunday afternoon and take a look at it, if you want. This is a simple thing to fix if you know where to look.

Yes, double check the engine block ground wire to the firewall, like Gordonr suggested. If that is gone, bad, the connections to it are loose, or corrosion on it, then this can happen. This is an additional ground wire that is really no supposed to carry that much current, and yours did. That wire will need to be replaced, the perfect job for Randy (midlife). If the wire is still connected, you can still use it for testing things. If the car runs fine when the lights and fan are off, and the battery keeps charging, then nothing else is damaged. Turn on the fan to high, and turn on the high beam headlights, and that wire will probably warm up. That means the engine ground wire to the firewall is bad.

It could be more trouble than it is worth. I use regular bulbs and I do not ever remember having them fail, but I am sure they have in the 34 years I have had my car. My point is, that for something that only requires replacement every 10 years or so, and is cheap and easy to do, why bother wtih LED? I'm just making the suggestion...

it looks like it has a 3 pin connector that could go to the alternator. Is one of the wires in the 3 pin connector larger than the other 2? is there any identification on the metal box?

I have a Ford intermittent wiper switch and controller. This was removed from a 1984 Ford, as you probably know they fit perfect into a 1969 to 1973 Mustang or Cougar. Guranteed to work, I tested it in my own 69 Mustang. Just unplug your old one and install the new one. No wires to cut or splice, it uses the same connector. It has the same slow and fast speeds as the knob is rotated clockwise, but rotate the knob counterclockwise from off, and it is intermittent timing from 1 to 20 seconds. The further you turn the knob, the slower it gets. I an supply a knob if needed. I do not have the original Ford knob for 69/70, but I have some that are close. $59 for it, plus $8 shipping. Black Knob can be included if you want it, the chrome knob is an additional $5. I will ship anywhere in the world for extra cost.

I went out to a salvage yard one day and walked around looking at what could work. It gives you ideas. I think my idea was perfect and cheap, and cheap is what I am all about! My method is not tested, maybe in a bad accident it would not work. First cannot think of a bad accident happening, but even if it did, I am confident my method would reduce my injuries. I can tell you more about it if you want, but the photos say a lot.

I have some that I took out of a 85 Crown Vic, to give you ideas. The picture with my fingers is the metal bracket the retractor mounts to. Photo 166 is the retractor mounted by the door opening. You can also see how I mounted the upper support by the top cylinder. Cost me $30 to buy it at a junkyard. I think the same system is used in old Ford Trucks.

I would say the "Midlife vs Michael" is an attempt at the humor. It is certainly better than I could have dreamed up. Glad to hear he is ok, we need him back. Too many wire questions for me to get wrapped up with.

I would be interested in seeing this setup. Are you around this weekend to meet for a cup of coffee or a beer? I forgot about the previous time.

Why not leave the starter solenoid about where it is, and run one wire to the trunk, like done above? Then the alternator and everything else connects to the battery side post on the solenoid. It sounds like you are running the starter wire and the alternator wire to the trunk separately.