danno

I have 4 old scrap brake master cylinders, and I am guessing one of them is the original. I want to get rid of them, but not the one that was original to the car. How would I find photos of the correct master cylinder for a 69 Mustang?

Just because something is making noise, it does not mean it is working. I am thinking of a particular woman I know.. I would guess I kind of know what the noise of a motor should be. The same for the woman...

Leave it alone for a while and adjust to it. If you still do not like it in 20 years, you can think of a change!

How do you know if the motor is spinning? Just because it makes noise?

The price is now $1100.

Make sure you define if it is the pump or the motor you need repaired. Also verify it is not low on oil. If it is low on oil or a line is plugged, it will appear as if the motor is bad. I know of no easy way to check to see which is the problem... Motor, pump, lines, or cylinders. If one side wants to go up and the other does not, then the motor and pump are probably ok. If neither side will go up and you have plenty of oil in it, then maybe rebuild the pump and motor at the same time. I probably need to do it on mine. After 50 years it has finally slowing down too much.

The price drops again sometime in the next couple days. Somebody on ebay was asking about details and is very interested. He will probably buy right after the next price drop.

No, I got my carb up and running. Yes, the mirror I have is off a Torino or Montego, I know that. It could work on a Mustang if the plastic sleeve between it and the door has a angle to it instead of flat. It was at a junkyard, doomed for destruction, and I hate to see that. Even if I do not need it. I would guess original Mustang mirror racing mirror bodys are over $100, more for the mirror, cable, and inside adjuster. I have all of it, but you would need the wedge shaped plastic piece under it. A belt sander would have one modified in seconds. It depends on if you want factory original or daily driver.

those window stops are used in a lot of places on front and back windows. Maybe they installed it without the spacer plate that holds the bolts 3 inches apart?

I just installed a new master, and bench bled it. The front was pumping right away, but the back took a lot of pumping before fluid started flowing. I am not sure why. Once installed, I could see fluid coming from the rear bleed screw. You might want to try the bench bleed.

Yes, but you might need that tape measure to hang that photo on the wall.

Spam it of course a Minnesota landmark food item. Like General Mills cereals and Land of lakes diary products. This disgusting food product has made us famous. Still serve widely in Hawaii. It works well to pack your wheel bearings with it.

I can't be sure, but it looks like a tape measure to me.

I have some later ones, if you need them. A drivers side sport mirror D2GB 11743AW.

Jay, OK, I will keep working on my system as it is. I have completed new calipers and Napa pads in front. One new caliper in back. New master, new hoses, rebuilt the distri valve. It still is not stopping the car that great. The pedal travel is 2.04 inches for a 1970, I assume the same for 69. I am not getting that. I get about 1.8 or 1.9 inches. If I loosen the master cylinder bolts, I still get the same travel. So for me maybe the master is not getting fully depressed. So my problem could be a bad booster? I am going to order a new Bendix rebuilt from Steve at Power Brake Booster Exchange. I have 3 old ones I can send in on exchange.

What parts do you need? I could probably part with some.

I am not worried about the heat, as I am just a daily driver on the freeways in Minneapolis. What are the more aggressive pads? It is good to hear they have the potential to work better. It was about 20 years ago I fought the same problem with the power steering. I did all the upgrades and got everything as good as it could be. In 1969 it was probably ok, but not in 1999. So I installed rack and pinion, and it was the greatest thing I have done to improve driveablity. I just do not want to spend a whole bunch of time and money, and still have something substandard. So it sounds like the brakes will be better than the steering. I will let you know how it goes.

I am in the process now of installing new calipers, new master, and new pads. recently install new hoses to the wheels and rear axel rebuilt the proportioning valve. I have bought the cheap pads already, I could try others if they might work better. If the factory power disc brakes can lock up the front wheels ( or close to it) if everything is correct, I will continue with getting the system as good as possible. But if even a perfect factory system is not that great, maybe I should switch to an aftermarket system? Barnett, what is a good set of pads, and where do I get them?

Sorry to bring this up again, but I also have factory power disc front, drum rears. I have never been satisfied with them. I want to be able to lock up the front wheels in a panic stop, and they will not do it. The consensus here seems that the factory system is fine. Is the problem something in my system?

Still not sold. Price reduced again. Now $1140 plus shipping for those purchasing from me using this forum.

Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items. Brakes and steering first. Some of the prices and items seem way out of line. Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items. Repair things as they break.

I had thought of this on mine. The pressure idea could work, but I was thinking of a timer. Press the button to go up, and it turns on the pump to go up for 8.5 seconds. Press the button to go down and it reverses the pump and runs for 6.3 seconds. I know this will work, but it would mean designing the electrical timer and putting it together. The other method is with limit switches. When you press the button to go up, the pump runs until the top triggers a switch to tell the motor to shut off. This would require some method of attaching switches to detect when it is all the way up or down. I also wanted to do this on my power windows. Then connect it all to the trunk release button on my remote control door unlock button. I press the button on my remote control, and all 4 windows go down and the top goes down. I will get to it in the next 30 years, when I have time. Dreaming takes little time; I can do that today.

Mach1driver has a great suggestion. Use those.

That is a real shame they got tossed out. The other problem I can see is getting the wire connections on the end of the wires through the little hole in them. I have a cable with the grommets molded onto it. Does Painless have a solution?

The metal clasp might really sting. Better to use a flyswatter. I wish I could have been so lucky.