danno

Yes, I remember when you helped me solve my distributor issue a few years back. I hope all is well.

Be careful with opinions... I had a visit to my doctor and he said I needed drastic surgery. I doubted it, so I told him I wanted a second opinion. He said, "OK, your're ugly too" That is an old but faithful Rodney line.

Bummer about this. It has probably happened to a lot of us. I know it happened to me, but the value was under $50. I would definitely raise it to SAAC forum and vintage mustangs forums. I am not sure if it will help, but maybe point out to Fast Fords that you will be taking all actions possible. You might also mention you have contacted your friend in Toronto who is an attorney. You know the guy, I have used him to.

Or you could just buy a complete harness, just like you want, from Midlife. It has real wires and not the flexible circuit card. http://midlifeharness.com/products.html

I wonder if it is quiet because every question that could ever be asked has already happened? All you need to do is a simple search. I cannot get that Gougle thing to work, though. I think it is just me, maybe my browzer?

I looked at these sites, and I am guessing they are using your old car photos as clickbait. They do not really have 99% of the cars on the site, but it creates interest. You might give them a call and inquire about it. i will bet they tell you " that one is sold, but we have this other one..."

I wonder if in a year+ of sitting, some spider or bug got into it? You might take it apart and see if it spins freely? A single drop of oil in the right place could fix it. But that means taking it all apart.

The tach cars had a underhood and underdash wire harness unique for the use of the tach. If the connector to the alternator has 4 pins to connect it to the underhood harness, the odds are it is a harness made for a car with a tach. It it has 3 connectors, then it is definiately not a tach harness. For the underdash harness, there are clues that can be made if you have access to the connector that connects to the back side of the instrument panel. They colors of the wires and where they connect are different between a tach and non tach car. Someone else might be able to tell you what the part number is on them. I do not know. Maybe look at CJ pony parts for the part number and see what it cross references to?

If you are still looking, I might have all the parts of a 69 tilt and tilt away steering column.

You gave me the rare opportunity to answer a question first. Now time for my siesta.

I am not sure which one pin 4 is, but the ground needs to be 2 black wires going to the same pin on the connector. Do you have a car with a factory tach or not? What year is the car? There should not be any wire from the seat belt warning light or parking brake light in a 69 with a standard dash.

The other end either goes to the light in the door, or the 14 pin connector for the instrument panel. There is one pin on the instrument panel connector with 2 black wires, and one of the black wires is probably this one. To check it, open the door so the door light is on. Then unscrew the connection and remove the wire from making contact. If the door light goes out, that is it. If it does not, it goes to the instrument panel connector.

I can't imagine answering a question like this before midlife. Maybe he is on a siesta? Anyway, the connector 2 pins is power. The Yellow with black is the +12 volts accessory power feed from the fusebox. The blue with red wire is the illumination light bulb. On the connector with 3 pins, the center pin (violet) is the common one for left and right speakers. The orange with violet is one speaker, and the white with violet is the other speaker. I am not sure which is left and which is right. You are correct, there is not a speaker in the dash with door speakers.

Bending the steel rod that connects the fuel float to the potentiometer part is the simplest way to adjust the fuel reading, but draining the fuel to get at the rod is a very difficult process. I have done it on my factory fuel sender. If you adjust your CVR so the gas guage reads correct, then your temperature gauge will be wrong. I am not aware of any method to make adjustments to the needle or gauge that is in the instrument panel. If you took it apart, you might be able to bend the needle, but that is a very delicate process.

Robert, you said you have the factory power disc brakes in you car, and they now seem to work great. I also have them, but I cannot lock up the front wheels in a panic stop. Can you?

My car has the original booster and factory power brakes. I could stop by some day and let you drive it to see how terrible they were right out of the factory. I kind of remember where you live. For my car, the pedal feels firm. Stopping is good, but not great. I cannot lock up the front wheels in a panic stop. I think that is typical of the factory system. I am working on a change to different brake system this fall.

Yes, you need to work on the fuel sender with an empty tank of gas. There is one brand of newer floats that can have an issue with leaking. If the float leaks, it will collect gas inside and not float very well. So after you remove the sensor, the first thing to check is to see if the float has fuel in it. Your problem is the sensor is reading too high, which cannot be a float with fuel in it. Your problem is it reads too high, so this needs to be fixed by bending the arm to the float. Adjusting the arm to the float is a trial and error process that can take a lot of time because you need to fill the tank to check it, and empty the tank to adjust it. Get the existing angle measured by tracing the arm with a piece of cardboard so you know how much you move it. This will give you a reference of a starting place. Then bend the arm and check with your reference to see how far you bent it.

You might have plenty of other pains, but not that of us in the experienced age group. Just wait, kiddo, until you are 40! Have fun while you can Danno

"The first to claim innocence are the first to be suspicious of the crime." Colombo

I have mine set to about 18 degrees. As long as it does not ping when accelerating or run too hot, I understand 18 degrees is allowable.

For the factory system, there is a spacer plate between the booster and the firewall. It adds 3/4 of an inch to it. Maybe you could modify this to reduce it? But then you need to reduce the pedal throw lever also, which is easy with an adjustment screw. It looks like you have an aftermarket booster, and maybe that is the problem. The original boosters might have a lower diameter, it is 7.3 inches. They were also longer, so the master cylinder was further away from the firewall. Check the diameter on your booster.

Maybe a small C clamp in one side to keep it from spinning, and then get a sharp point under the end without the clamp on it. I have done it several times, but do not remember how I did it. Maybe there is a show on youtube that describes a hidden method?

There are many bluetooth receivers available, some are under $10. I have mine hooked up to my Factory AM/FM radio, so I click a switch and it changes from AM/Fm to bluetooth receiver. That way the volume and tone knobs work for the sound coming from my phone, through the radio, and to the speakers. I did this modification on a 1973 Ford factory radio so I have the original appearance. I can do it for anyone else who is interested.

Where is this used? I am not sure what you are referring to.

The real answer to your original question depends on what the underside it like now and where you live. I bought my 69 in 1983 in Dallas and drove it to Minneapolis. I only drive it in months of the year without an "r" in the spelling: May, June July August. I have never touched the underside, and I would swear it has not changed in driving 100,000 miles for almost 40 years. Rust hides quite well, so it is possible I do not see it, but nothing has shown up. So just perhaps, in your case, doing nothing is the answer??? I'm just sayin....